KZGUNS

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That's the can i have and the cooler i was looking at. I think when i bought the ball valve for the drain amazon sent me two. I'll mail you the extra one since its a lot easier than the petcock the include and the you can put a small hose on the valve.
 
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CarMichael Angelo

my rearend will smell so minty fresh,
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I need to come up with a plan to finalize the pcv system in this build.

Currently I have no baffles... Bad idea lots of oil issues. I also have my oil return from the turbos dumping into the driver valve cover. Another bad idea, I think I may be getting some aeration of the oil. After a few pulls or a long drive my oil pressure begins to drop, nothing crazy just something I noticed.
I plan to move the oil return to the oil pan.
While I have the valve covers off make some baffles, now my issue is that I want a closed pcv system... This is fine under normal conditions but under boost I have nowhere to vent too unless I run a line all the way back to the turbos and use some kind of pump... I was thinking of using a gm or Ford electric smog pump for this purpose.

Thoughts?
That doesn’t work. That pump won’t pull enough vacuum to overcome positive crankcase pressure. I tried this on the old monster engine. It didn’t pull any measureable vacuum under boost.
 

a91what

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That doesn’t work. That pump won’t pull enough vacuum to overcome positive crankcase pressure. I tried this on the old monster engine. It didn’t pull any measureable vacuum under boost.
I have decided to use an open can with a 10an feed from each valve cover, one of the covers will also have a pcv to a can to the intake.. the idea is that the gasses will get sucked up under normal conditions and under boost it can vent normally.
 
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CarMichael Angelo

my rearend will smell so minty fresh,
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I have decided to use an open can with a 10an feed from each valve cover, one of the covers will also have a pcv to a can to the intake.. the idea is that the gasses will get sucked up under normal conditions and under boost it can vent normally.
Well, you gotta do what you gotta do. I’m sure I don’t have to tell you that any oil that gets sucked into the intake stream is gonna increase the chance of detonation. Your catch can needs to be chambered to keep the oily-watery funk that’s gonna accumulate in that can from getting sucked back into the intake stream.
 

a91what

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Well, you gotta do what you gotta do. I’m sure I don’t have to tell you that any oil that gets sucked into the intake stream is gonna increase the chance of detonation. Your catch can needs to be chambered to keep the oily-watery funk that’s gonna accumulate in that can from getting sucked back into the intake stream.
It is chambered, I also plan to run a mesh screen before the can to allow condensation of oil before the pcv. It should work out.... I think.
 
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a91what

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IMG_20210828_134403393_HDR.jpg
I really like these bulkhead fittings, if I have an issue with the other side again I am replacing those fittings with these.
IMG_20210828_125603409.jpg
Both covers got the diy baffle treatment.
 
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a91what

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Work work work... thats all I seem to have time for. I was trying to get more done on Sunday but my lift pump decided it needed to be dug up and worked on.... it was a :poo:ty day :tss:..

So how about some terrible pictures of the can install with a flashlight?
1630379246041.png

You can see the -10 line and 90* fitting tucked below the AC line, it just barely fit below the pinch rail.

1630379340788.png

I am not sure if I want to order the nice line spacers/holders for this job or if I just give it the ziptie treatment and move on.
You can see the two can lines run together into the fender.

1630379440401.png

The can tucked away down in the passenger fender... it is mounted using the bolt that holds the fender support bracket, almost like it was meant to fit there.
 
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a91what

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Well it happened... Something went wrong, I knew this was going too well.
Found shavings in the pan after investigation of a slight knock. Basically the old trans and convertor setup must have had too much forward thrust pressure, we checked the current setup and it's correct.
The thrust bearing is destroyed along with the crank. It's grooved pretty badly, enough that I think it will need either welded or replaced.
 
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a91what

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Yeah, as hard as it was to remove the old trans I should have just pulled it then.
I am going to contact scat on Monday and see if they can send me a new crank balanced already. They did it initially and I still have the spin sheet they sent with it.
 

a91what

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Gives me a chance to go over everything, I am going to re-hone the block with new rings. This will let me open it up a bit for more boost
 
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90sickfox

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I walked away for a minute and this is what I come back to. :nonono:

I feel bad for you brother.
 

a91what

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Be careful. You were already having blowby with a tighter ring end gap.
Rings were already gapped for boost. What I mean is they machined the block with tight tolerances.
The engine made very little gasses at idle it was only under boost I noticed anything. Either way I may go ahead and use a gap-less ring set this time.
 

CarMichael Angelo

my rearend will smell so minty fresh,
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I don’t know what it is, maybe it was just how freakin bad the piston/cylinder fit was, but the old Ford engine would puke oil out of every hole it could find under boost, and it was only seeing 10 psi.
The new engine conversely, using the same stock 40-50k mile pistons with only a hone, and a new set of rings doesn’t huff, or hasn’t left even the slightest amount of oily residue in the catch can at over twice that boost number.
Not to brag up a 2jz, but whatever they’re doing to control blowby, it works.
Maybe it’s the square bore to stroke thing, maybe it’s because of the block integrity, maybe I got lucky this time with my ring fitment.

I don’t know if gapless rings are recommended for a boosted application, you will have to do your own checking into that. I know you don’t wanna do things twice any more than I do.

* I just skip over the “ twice” part, and just go straight to 3-4 times over when having to fix my screwed up sht.