Build Thread Enola- Finishing touches

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Got to work this morning and had a smoke mist out from under the car, smells like oil. After doing a bit on hunting on my lunch break it appears that the valve covers are seeping oil again. I am giving up on these blue reusable cover gaskets, its getting cork and rtv
 
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I just gave up this weekend and grabbed my tube of ultra grey!
so its not just me then.
I am going to make some baffles while I am in there and find a way to seal the bulkhead fittings better, they seem to get a bit of oily residue around them as well... I am thinking I will just remove the nylon gaskets they send with them and use a heavy dose of RTV when I wrench them tight. I dont have access to a welder capable of aluminum.... I could just put alum wire in mine but I dont have the right gas for it.
 
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I could not get the blue reusable VC gaskets to not leak on my 11R heads. No matter what I did. So, they are sitting on a pile of other parts now and I put on a set of flat rubber gaskets which are sealed to the heads with the right stuff. Have not leaked on me in a year.

Chris
 
I need to come up with a plan to finalize the pcv system in this build.

Currently I have no baffles... Bad idea lots of oil issues. I also have my oil return from the turbos dumping into the driver valve cover. Another bad idea, I think I may be getting some aeration of the oil. After a few pulls or a long drive my oil pressure begins to drop, nothing crazy just something I noticed.
I plan to move the oil return to the oil pan.
While I have the valve covers off make some baffles, now my issue is that I want a closed pcv system... This is fine under normal conditions but under boost I have nowhere to vent too unless I run a line all the way back to the turbos and use some kind of pump... I was thinking of using a gm or Ford electric smog pump for this purpose.

Thoughts?
 
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I'm using a catch can and have the bulkheads in the front of the covers. I dont get a ton of stuff in the can. I would definitely reroute the oil return. there's already enough oil trying to get back to the pan as it is. My leak was lower rear of the cover, right where it prob. pools up as its draining.
 
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I am considering this oil cooler kit, does anyone have opinions on the matter? Is there something out there just as good for less?

 
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I'm also looking into an oil cooler. I'll prob. put something together on my own though. $381 just seems crazy. I' know you can buy that style cooler online so you're paying for the mount in that kit.
 
I'm also looking into an oil cooler. I'll prob. put something together on my own though. $381 just seems crazy. I' know you can buy that style cooler online so you're paying for the mount in that kit.
I am at the point right now that I have money from tuning cars.... I am a bit short on time to get this thing finished.

What can did you use and where did you mount it?
 
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You can buy a cooler and piece it together on your own for way less.

My pcv side has a catch can and a check valve that keeps boost from going from the intake into the engine.

My breather tank from the valve cover is open air but when idling or during pulls vapors are pulled from the can through a hose that runs to my turbo inlet. Never any oil mist in that line. Haven't had any fume smells either. I see how that would be complicated in your set up.
 
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I am at the point right now that I have money from tuning cars.... I am a bit short on time to get this thing finished.

What can did you use and where did you mount it?
I mounted mine on the pass side next to the radiator. Its just one i got off amazon. I did add ball valve on the bottom for easy draining. I'll see if i can find a picture, i can take one tonight if i don't have one now.
 
I could not get the blue reusable VC gaskets to not leak on my 11R heads. No matter what I did. So, they are sitting on a pile of other parts now and I put on a set of flat rubber gaskets which are sealed to the heads with the right stuff. Have not leaked on me in a year.

Chris
Is there perhaps something in the design of those gaskets that makes them seal correctly only on stock and/or cast iron heads?

I'm pretty sure everyone in here complaining about them is running aluminum heads.