Progress Thread Exhaust I wanna hear it!

Reddevil91

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Mar 3, 2010
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Alright well went to harbor and found an open box that was for 82 orig 129. Asked the manager about a discount, he said I’ll give it to you for 60. Said ok, charged it up and gave it a shot, still had to cut the boots and use some vice grips but boom, they’re out.
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Reddevil91

5 Year Member
Mar 3, 2010
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Get yourself a smallish compressor and a high torque impact, always need air for tires and other tools that will come in handy. Electric one nice but gotta make sure batteries charged all the time.
Grease them till hard and full of grease, don't over do and blow out boot and or seal.
Hey so I looked on the bottom of the ball joint since they are on the car, it looks like there is grease in there but there isn’t a fitting and there wasn’t one in the boxes from rockauto. Should I just buy the fittings and add grease?
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Reddevil91

5 Year Member
Mar 3, 2010
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What up everyone! So took a break from the car to clean up my trucks lights, popped some new lights and fogs in. Cleaned it up big time! Back to the car, how do I know which of these to bushings to get? They all have different diameters. My sway bar links look ok but figured I’d swap them out while I can. Is there one I should get vs the other and what about the front sway bar bushings? How many of you all actually run after market sway front and rear sway bars? Is there a difference in stock vs aftermarket and is this a worthwhile investment? A558286D-8945-47A8-A727-2470D28C7272.jpeg 3F8BA537-EA12-482E-9064-C38D2A1713C3.jpeg
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Reddevil91

5 Year Member
Mar 3, 2010
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Oh also, since I pretty much destroyed my old strut dust boots, where can I find these or can I use a different boot? I saw these strut mounts but can’t find the boots. Any ideas? Thanks F745B9CE-6A66-4ED8-804B-68C143A33DC2.png
 

90sickfox

I didn't really have an issue with the stink...
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The technical name is strut bellows.... and they have them new but the dressing is different.... more like the sn95 factory boot. They use the same design strut. This was a1autoparts others are similar...partsgeek also has them.

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Reddevil91

5 Year Member
Mar 3, 2010
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Thanks man I saw some of these or similar on rock but just bought the stock ones on eBay.
 

Reddevil91

5 Year Member
Mar 3, 2010
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So I bought this rivet gun from harbor for the front shield. Now do I have to put anything on the back or after I pump and snap the rivet in will it just snug up in there? Never used a rivet gun before.
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Reddevil91

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Waiting on my boots but mocked up the tokicos,
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8C47E98F-5257-42B1-AF35-9B0A8FD6BA37.jpeg 79322819-E3C5-4241-9B95-9EFB2935EDB5.jpeg can’t wait to finish this up. Still awhile to go, trying to figure out how to get the last bolt out under the dash for the booster. I’m stumped and frustrated!!! Also for those who used the northracecars set like @Mustang5L5 do you know which threaded bolt you used to connect the MM line to the caliper? There’s the fine and coarse thread oil filler bolt. And any ideas to get that last bolt out will be helpful
 

Mustang5L5

Car used in adult film "Highway Gangbang-InDaButt"
SN Certified Technician
Feb 18, 2001
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I think the 99-04 Cobra calipers are coarse threaded banjo bolts. The 99-04 GT/V6 can be either as they changed over around 2002.
 

Reddevil91

5 Year Member
Mar 3, 2010
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So got in the boots and installing the front struts. Does it matter if I use a spacer on the top under the nut or can I just run the nut on the CC plates? I have fully cranked down yet either with the impact that’s just lightly tightened
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stanglx2002

10 Year Member
Jul 7, 2005
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I vote no spacer since with the spacer it doesn't have a lot of thread for tightening
 

90sickfox

I didn't really have an issue with the stink...
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Mar 2, 2015
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A set of Gearwrench flex head ratchets wrenches could really help in a situation like that. They are for sale in AutoZone and Advance Auto stores.

You should also be able to reach that nut with a long extension and a swivel. If I remember correctly its easier with the panel removed from under the steering wheel. ( the part that runs over to the fuser box cover ). Just 2 9/32 or 7mm screws....oh and the two phillips screws that hold the acordian looking trim piece where the column cover meets that panel.

From the area behind the coverr you should be able to reach that nut with a ratchet and extensions.
 

Reddevil91

5 Year Member
Mar 3, 2010
591
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A set of Gearwrench flex head ratchets wrenches could really help in a situation like that. They are for sale in AutoZone and Advance Auto stores.

You should also be able to reach that nut with a long extension and a swivel. If I remember correctly its easier with the panel removed from under the steering wheel. ( the part that runs over to the fuser box cover ). Just 2 9/32 or 7mm screws....oh and the two phillips screws that hold the acordian looking trim piece where the column cover meets that panel.

From the area behind the coverr you should be able to reach that nut with a ratchet and extensions.
Yeah so took off the plastic panel from under the steering wheel and started taking off the metal panel under neath that one, took one bolt out but seems like one is locked into the bolt bc it just keeps spinning. So I might just use my Dremel and cut that one bc I tried and tried to get it out so I could remove that metal cover but nothing. Also I saw that many people I guess elongated two of the mounting holes for the booster so it would fit without having to smash up the tower area, is that correct?
 

90sickfox

I didn't really have an issue with the stink...
SN Certified Technician
Mar 2, 2015
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That odd correct. I have an 88 and cut the studs on the booster about 1/4 inch and tapped the strut tower in just a little. I didn't want to elongate the holes because there's a plastic spacer of some sort. Seemed like more work than it was worth. You really can't tell that i touched the strut tower at all.
 

Boostedpimp

10 Year Member
May 8, 2003
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Does it matter if I use a spacer on the top under the nut or can I just run the nut on the CC plates? I have fully cranked down yet either with the impact that’s just lightly tightened
The spacer is suppose to go on top of the strut below the cc plate and no spacer under the top nut.
 

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