Progress Thread My centrifugal ppl, how’s this deal?

With my install i didnt slot those holes at all. Some beat the tower....others don't. Some say the 90 and up have a pinch more room.....

I think i couldve gotten the booster in without tapping the tower....but....i was frustrated as hell at the time. It took a friend to look at the studs coming through by the pedal for me to get it in. Real PITA.

He came buy after my wife called him ( her cousin ) 'cause i was bout to burn errything to the ground !!! It was the hardest thing I've done to date on a mustang.

You make it through this step without throwing tools and going into convulsions....you can conquer anything.
Lol well I about lost my :poo: just trying to unbolt the damn thing from under the dash and constantly said wtf why am I trying to do this, I have no mechanic or automotive experience. I was hoping that going back in might be easier but sounds like it isn’t. My wife already said, you claim this was going to be fun for you but you always come back into the house pissed and frustrated. Well I’ll give it a shot tonight and this weekend and see what happens. Can you install it all together with MC attached or will that just make it worse?
 
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When it's done.... it's done.

The master cylinder is easy once the booster is bolted in. It actually helps if the master cylinder is a little loose when you screw in the hard lines.
 
So working on getting this booster in now, it’s gobna be a struggle and alr day scraped a big junk of my paint off it from rubbing against the intake. Tempted to remove but have heard plenty get it without doing so. What do you all think of my msd placement? It’s been there for about 16 years now, idk if it’s even functioning but will it be to tight with my booster. If I remove the MSD box is my car going to run right? Just thinking maybe I should place it somewhere else.
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Just pull the intake. Loosen the bolts and just shift it to the passenger side. Save yourself the headache it's only 10 mins of work.


I'd ditch the MSD personally
I tried to slot the holes slightly and it’s so close. Did you do about the same or go more? Didn’t cut the studs bc I don’t have anything to re thread them and honestly idk how to.
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All you need is a cheap standard tap and dye kit from any parts store. If you take some of the stud tip off it'll make it alot easier. I'd also advise putting some sealant around the holes. Butyl for front windshields works well. Just pull a string of it about 1/4 to 3/8th thick and stick it around the base of the studs.

The pinch weld will drip around the booster sometimes in heavy rain. The factory booster had a gasket behind it.

My last car had no sealant or gasket and the floor was never wet on the drivers side....just precaution.

The hexagon bit that has the same thread as your booster studs literally just screws on the stud to clean the threads up.

If you put a nut on the stud before you cut it off it will clean the threads up when you take the nut off. Put it on and off a couple times and you're good to go. Thats how you used to always do cut bolts and studs....before i started using tap and dye kits. Worked every time. A grinder or cut off wheel ( even a dremel ) will make quick work of these studs. Don't take too much off....about 1/4 to 3/8th an inch.
 
About the same. Youbare really close. I'd probably slot those two a little more sndvsend it home.

When I trimmed my studs, it threaded two nuts on first then cut. I backed off the first nut, and ensured I could get it back on. The second but was just a backup in case I couldn't get the first nut back on. I didn't have the proper die handy to rethread it
 
Ok so front is pretty much done, front big brake kit in, 93 cobra booster in with 93 MC, frpp prop valve, my rear cobra kit is on the way from NRCs. So when I talked with Richard from NRCs he offered an upgrade for MM braided lines which would match the front lines as that kit came with the MM lines, and just so ppl know or maybe already did but I didn’t, with their kit you don’t need to order that adapter for the passenger side like you do if you get the LMR kit, the MM connect right in with the stock lines. Would’ve saved me 10 bucks but oh well. Any how how many of you are running MM lines on your rear swap? Is it necessary? It’s an extra 140 bucks and I’m just checking in with those who have done this swap, if this would make a difference or should I just save that 140 for something else motor wise? Also any tips and tricks for the rear would be appreciated. Gonna start to take all the stock stuff out today just so I have a head start.
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That adapter fitting us readily available at parts stores for $2 or so.

I habrbthe MM rear lines.
Well I ended up ordering the adapter fitting from lmr for 10 to find out that it wasn’t necessary for NRCs kit, when i tried fitting it. On the LMR kit and install video for the front they use the adapter on the passenger side. Then I read NCRs webpage and it clearly states you didn’t need this adapter. Oh well whatever. Not real sure what that last sentence said? I’m thinking you said you have the MM rear lines. So yes it’s worth upgrading? Wish they just offer it in the kit already.
 
Well started to attack the rear!!! Guess that comes off kinda dirty :oops: So got both the shocks in, opened up the diff and man once that oil started draining, it stank real gross. Sprayed some cleaner in and tried to get most of the oil still need to scrap out some puddles. Pulled the pin, C-clips are out as well as the axles!!! Guess I’ll get the drive shaft out next, and pull the remaining hard ware off from the drums. Thought I’d get a head start while I await my rear cobra kit to come in sometime this week. I’m kinda worried about the whole E-brake
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Evbrake is easy once you get all the right parts for it
Does anyone make a kit for this swap or no letter what you have to make modifications to the handle? Guess that’s the part that worries me. I’ve watched a few vids, but of course doubt kicks in. Since you run the MM rear lines do you think or know if it’s a big difference than running just the reg lines it will come with. I may just drop the 140 for them but I guess I just don’t know what the real difference would be in them.
 
Honestly, you prob won't notice a big difference. I think there was a bigbthread on corner carvers.com debating how much of a difference they actually made.

As for the parking brake handle mods, there's an easier way to defeat the self adjuster with cutting and welding.

https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/sn95-parking-brake-no-need-to-weld-handle.900665/

The clip mentioned in this thread also works on the fox handle. $5 and you can still adjust tension from the top