Failure mode for the DCC FK35?

srothfuss · Apr 18, 2006

OK guy's, I sent an email to baskin but I thought I would ask you while I wait for his response. I have the following

1995 3G 130Amp Alt
FFI overdriven pulley so I see full charge at idle with the fan running off the controller
Mark Viii Fan circa 1996
FK35A

I absolutly love how this thing works.

However, on the way home from work the car saw 210 degrees on my autometer gauge (not unusual). When I got home, I popped the hood to verify the fan was running. It was just turning off so that was fine (stock thermostat / controller set at 202 degrees). About 3 seconds later, the fan kicked straight on full blast. I assumed everything was functioning as it should, pulled into the garage and turned off the ignition. The fan stayed on @ 100% speed after I turned off the car. The entire unit functioned perfectly for the past 2 weeks. Now, since the car got kind of hot is it possible that the unit is in some sort of thermal protection mode? Did I kill one of baskins legendary controllers? His website says thermal protection on the unit means the fan cycles on and off (hard starting each time) to warn the driver. But does the unit still send 12V to the fan after the ignition is shut off?

Things I tried:
Unhooked the 12V ign - nothing happend
Unhooked the battery - controller output is still @ 100%

srothfuss · Apr 18, 2006

Got a message back from Baskin. I might have overheated the unit based on the mounting location that I choose, causing the failure... I'll update once I get confirmation and a replacement unit.

WLDHRSE · Apr 19, 2006

Where did you mount it?

srothfuss · Apr 19, 2006

Baskin spent some time with me last night via email (Thanks) and now he thinks that the unit saw an over voltage some how. The unit did get warm, but not enough to melt it so that was good news. the DCC unit is tested @ 200 degrees F for 24 hours with no cooling and they still perform.

So, I checked my voltage at the battery between idle and 2000 RPM's

Batt + was 12.7 thru 12.9 volts
12V Switched source (yellow wire on the controler) 14.4 volts constantly.

I am going to disassemble my unit and send it back for examination and exchange it for another one. I am also going to take my 3G to muarry's and have it load tested to verify the alternator isn't over charging

Here are some pictures of where I installed the unit: DUW - 3G/efan swap thread It's out of the way of the radiator, but it doesn't have very much of a heat sink. Not optimal but workable...

lxwants12's · Apr 19, 2006

hope it works out for you..Baskin said mine wasnt working cause the battery was in the trunk and i needed that filter so hes sending me one.....but for now i have a 50 am toggle, and a 60 amp fuse with 10 gauge wire to everything and its fine for now

baskin · Apr 19, 2006

srothfuss said:
Baskin spent some time with me last night via email (Thanks) and now he thinks that the unit saw an over voltage some how. The unit did get warm, but not enough to melt it so that was good news. the DCC unit is tested @ 200 degrees F for 24 hours with no cooling and they still perform.

So, I checked my voltage at the battery between idle and 2000 RPM's

Batt + was 12.7 thru 12.9 volts
12V Switched source (yellow wire on the controler) 14.4 volts constantly.

I am going to disassemble my unit and send it back for examination and exchange it for another one. I am also going to take my 3G to muarry's and have it load tested to verify the alternator isn't over charging

Here are some pictures of where I installed the unit: DUW - 3G/efan swap thread It's out of the way of the radiator, but it doesn't have very much of a heat sink. Not optimal but workable...

I wouldn't worry about the mounting location, the unit will limit its own temperature to 250 F if it starts getting hot.

I have a couple of concerns. The 12.9 on the battery vs the 14.4 on the ignition is kind of strange, the battery should easily be 14.4 with the over drive pulley and the ignition should be slightly lower than the battery. Make sure that they check the diode bridge.

What I just noticed is that it doesn't look like the high current inputs are connected to the battery, and I can't see where they're connected.

baskin · Apr 19, 2006

lxwants12's said:
hope it works out for you..Baskin said mine wasnt working cause the battery was in the trunk and i needed that filter so hes sending me one.....but for now i have a 50 am toggle, and a 60 amp fuse with 10 gauge wire to everything and its fine for now

Don't take my word for it frank, here is a quote from the instruction sheet:

Place the connectored end of the remaining red wire on the input terminal of the controller and secure the wire with one star washer and brass 6-32 hex nut. Route the wire to the positive battery terminal. Attach the fusible link and connect to the positive battery terminal. Do not connect to the starter end of the battery cable or to the alternator. Use the supplied wire hold downs, along with two self tapping screws and flat washers to secure the wires.

And here's a couple quotes from the web site:

In applications where a long run to the battery is required, as with a relocated battery, a ten foot extension and input filter is available. 10-EX $15.95

An alternative to running a separate set of wires to the relocated battery, the filtered surge protector allows connection of the control unit to the starter solenoid. 1.5-KS

The plan, as of Friday, was for you to attach a capacitor accross the input to verify that there weren't any other problems. I haven't heard back from you on that and I don't believe that I have an order from you on the filter.

lxwants12's · Apr 19, 2006

i havent tried the capacitor i dont even know what that is..and i was waiting for you cause you said you didnt have any or you were getting them soon so i was waiting for that i figured i would order one this weekend

srothfuss · Apr 19, 2006

The High current wires are looped around the back and up through the drain hole in the battery tray.. It's hard to see because I tried to high them for a factory-ish look

I retested the battery / alternerator before unhooking it.

It's now

14.5 - 14.7 volts off the yellow wire
14.8 - 14.9 volts at the battery through the RPM range. I must not have had good enough contact with the probe on my DMV (it's junky)

Gotta run to the UPS store now.

baskin · Apr 19, 2006

Either that or something's changing. 14.9 is pretty high, the controller can take that, but something's not right.

http://www.prestolite.com/literature/tech/alts/TSB-1019_On_Trk_Troubleshooting.pdf

They say spec is 13.8 - 14.2

What I was asking is what are the controller high current inputs connected to?

baskin · Apr 20, 2006

I need to know what the controller high current inputs are connected to. Are they connected to the battery or somewhere else?

srothfuss · Apr 20, 2006

They are clamped to the battery terminals... in one of the photos you can see the taped up wire loom.

Alternator was tested and did not pass. My alternator cooked the unit. This weekend, I am going to try to find a new (not used or rebuilt) alternator from a parts store or Ford

As a postitive out of all of this, I got to use my DMM for a little while.

blackcloud50 · Apr 21, 2006

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Failure mode for the DCC FK35?

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