Progress Thread Fall into HeHateMe

droopie85gt

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With it being .060 over, stock stroke it is a 362 and with a 3.85 crank it's 399. So assuming 1.2 hp/cid 434 hp or or 478. I'd be happy with anything in between those numbers. The t5 probably won't be happy...but I don't plan on drag racing it, much. So that would work out to between 365 and 400 hp to the wheels. That would be nice.

For a while! LOL
 
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Davedacarpainter

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Don't forget these Drew, if/when I get my brother's engine we'll work out a deal.

IMG_3867.JPG
 

droopie85gt

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I'm pretty sure you can make it a progress thread by changing the title and selecting a tag. Holler if that's not the case.
Got it!

You have to have special double naught clearance for the ‘Build’ prefix.

Am I on Double Secret Probation?


Dean Wormer: Oh. Then as of this moment, they're on double secret probation!
Greg: Double secret probation, sir?
Dean Wormer: There is a little-known codicil in the Faber College constitution which gives the dean unlimited power to preserve order in time of campus emergency. Find me a way to revoke Delta's charter. You live next door. Put Neidermeyer on it. He's a sneaky little :poo:, just like you, right? [Greg nods] The time has come for someone to put their foot down. And that foot is me.
 
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Davedacarpainter

I think I've messed my pants
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Got it!



Am I on Double Secret Probation?


Dean Wormer: Oh. Then as of this moment, they're on double secret probation!
Greg: Double secret probation, sir?
Dean Wormer: There is a little-known codicil in the Faber College constitution which gives the dean unlimited power to preserve order in time of campus emergency. Find me a way to revoke Delta's charter. You live next door. Put Neidermeyer on it. He's a sneaky little :poo:, just like you, right? [Greg nods] The time has come for someone to put their foot down. And that foot is me.
I was thinking more of a double naught spy like Jethro.....
 

droopie85gt

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Why is it so freaking hard to find matte clear in a Rustoleum can. I went to Ace and Autozone. So I broke down and bought 2 cans of matte black so I can finish what I am painting and move on! I guess the wrought iron fence is getting painted gloss black this year!
 
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droopie85gt

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I can paint too. SO I have the fenders painted semi gloss black. Time to put stuff on and fire up the solder machine! Not tonight.
IMG_20180405_200308.jpg
IMG_20180405_200312.jpg
 

droopie85gt

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@Davedacarpainter It's too late now...but when the engine was not in the way and I am going to paint the entire underhood area. Could one use the panel bond adhesive to fill holes? Weldless hole filling and smoothing?
 

90sickfox

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JB Weld works well filling holes. You've got to recess the holes a little and scuff them up. Thats the teenage way of doing it 20yrs ago. The epoxy bar is the way to go.

Most of the holes aren't that hard to weld shut. A piece of brass can help tremendously. The weld wont stick to brass. If you hold brass on the back of the hole it makes it easier to seal up.

My buddy has a CRX and we smoothed the bay with JB. Its been like that for a bunch of years. No issues. If you dent the hole in ( just a tad ) and keep from sanding through the JB it'll hold up well. Just a skim with filler, sand, clean, prime, seal, and paint....

PBA is runny and takes a while to set up. Bad combo for filling holes.
 

droopie85gt

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If I feel that froggy when I pull the engine, I might buy a MIG and weld them up. I might not really care...I will probably be ready to get the 351w in and running.
 

CarMichael Angelo

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If you do not have any welding skills, welding in a set of fender aprons is not the place to learn (Ask Collin). I too would consider the easily available "epoxy stik" that is made by JB weld. You pinch off a small amount, knead it together till it's uniform in colour, then press it into the hole. You can guarantee it's permanency by pressing on both sides of the application to "mushroom" the repair so that it will stick on the surrounding metal instead of just the hole. After it dries ( in about 15 minutes, it can be sanded smooth.

Beats the living hell out of grinding a weld.

What you wont have is a true smooth bay like you see in all of the pics. The typical job has everybody capping the troughs at the top of the frame rails.

If I had it to do over again, I'd consider the Scott Rod panels that can be riveted in. As long as you can drill symmetrical spaced holes in a straight line, it'd look great. And its do able at this stage, and the thing that most people see when the engine and all of the accessories are cluttering up the rest of the space.
10.jpg

FIRC-STL.jpg

says that these can be pop riveted in.

Hell, I'd even consider riveting these things in. I'm confident that I could make them look like they belonged there by painting them a contrasting texture to the rest of the bay.
FSTRUTC-STL.jpg

there are only a few jobs that can be done to a Mustang that can be considered "Hell on Earth" and welding, grinding, filling, smoothing then priming and painting an engine compartment is one of them. (The other is removing the undercoating out of the rear wheel tubs)
Knowing what I know now, I'd D/A the hell out of the strut toweres, and prime them in an etching primer, then cut away the disposable part of the existing fender aprons.Then Cleco in the above panels until I got them to fit as good as I could. Then I'd paint the towers, prime and paint the inserts, and rivet them btches on there.
 
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