First Drive With Wide Band

Hmm your running fat at idle but depending on the cam it may need it to smooth out. I usually try for 13.5-14.5 but give the car what it wants.

Cruise at all RPM ranges should be between 13.9- 15.4 this is tricky with a big cam if you get a surge at cruise fatten it up a tad.

Wot- look for 12-13 most carb engines make best power at 12.5

I'm no carb expert but I do know my tuning.... carb vs efi.... carb tends to run a tad fat.

The carb needs a main jet change. The idle circuit is based on mixture screws,..cruise is metered via the main jets. No need to change the boosters or the idle air bleeds until you can get the thing to idle in a respectable 13.5:1 range.
At 12: anything, nobody could stand anywhere close to it w/o smelling like exhaust.

Gear grabber said:

Played around with the car today. The first go round i set the idle in the 13.6-13.8 range,but it went pretty lean in in the area just before the primary jets come in to play. I saw close to 16 around 2400,by 2500 the main started flowing and it dropped back to 13.5.

Went a little richer at idle 13.3-13.5 at that point most cruise rpm's were low to mid 14's with a peak of 15.1 just before the mains came on. Now the pump cam,squirter needs a little work,tried a few things but not right yet.

Tried richer 12.9-13.1 idle,no help.

Click to expand...

How are you knowing when "the mains come on"? You shouldn't be able to feel any transition in the carburetor, unless you're just talking about observing the gauge. The main jets are flowing at anything above idle. I can guarantee that,...if you look into the carburetor at 2000 RPM,..you're gonna see gas coming out of the discharge boosters, and those boosters are sucking gas out of the bowl through the primary circuit.
Your last set of figures sound perfect to me, where's the beef?
The accel circuit is dead easy to tune. typically only needs a squirter change. You should be able to watch how much fuel is being "shot" into the primaries as a result of tapping the throttle.
When I used to have a Holley,..I'd tune that so that every time I tapped the throttle back with my thumb on the throttle arm while under the hood there was no flat spot in the rev. The first part doesn't require that you buy, or change out anything:
Take the lash out of the accelerator pump actuator by loosening the screw that is wrapped by a spring. This will slightly preload the accel pump.
You should be able to snap the throttle at unloaded idle w/o a "BO..WAH" on the engine, and this part has Zero to do with AFR. I'd see what size the primary side squirter was, and buy a couple of different ones larger and maybe smaller depending on how the engine responds now.
The pump cam has everything to do w/ eliminating the off idle bog when the engine is loaded, as it can be set to change where, and when the accel pump is activated during initial acceleration,. I rarely messed w/ that,..I was more concerned w/ getting a snappy throttle response, and most of the time, a squirter change always fixed that.

+1 things to remember about the WB.... the target AFR is not always what the engine wants.
If the throttle is nice and crisp with a richer afr by all means go with it..

This is where datalogging is a life saver. Sometimes a lean spike on tip in can be raw fuel in the exhaust.

Sounds like you have the carb pretty well dialed in. I don't think you will idle any leaner without an milder cam, overlap and fuel crossover in the ports at low velocity won't allow it.
Plus you have a great diagnostic tool now.