Foot Hill's Fastback

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Dec 9, 2014
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#2
This is what I've got

65 fastback.
DSS bullet block 302/306
9:75 compression
Comp cam custom blower grind cam 5.18 lift with 114* separation and duration at .050 in.228 ex.232
Edelbrock performer 1.60/ 2.02 aluminum heads lock wire gasket
Forged pistons
9" rear end with rear disk.
Detroit locker
31 spline moser axles
4:11 gears
T-5 (to get it going (was free)
Lakewood scatter shield
Fatman fabrication strut and rack and pinion kit
93 cobra front disk brakes
89 efi fuel injection (Windsor fox no brainer wiring harness)
Hyd clutch

All the above is installed just no wiring hooked up yet.
Still need fuel system
Brake lines
Drive line
Cooling system
Interior kit
And tires wheels.
 
Dec 9, 2014
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#3
e92d7b93fd6ae2cd2abeee69ca4dfd62.jpg


So after 20 years (purchased the long-block assembly salvaged 5.0 donor car in 1995)
And help from some of you I spent a weekend installing harness and hooking up all the sensors required to make the eng. run. (Original wiring was a mess and cut/hacked up so I removed all and will replace with new at later date)

Placed 5.0 fuel tank onto nearby table and ran fuel hoses to eng. rail. Primed and circulated fuel system till solid stream of fuel came from return line.

Poured water into radiator (mounted with one bolt) then noticed small leak at driver side block freeze plug :(
Tried lightly tapping it to slow/stop leak and plug just shot into water jacket!!

At this point I wasn't going to let a little thing like "no water"stop me from starting this virgin eng up that night so I pulled the dist. Primed oil pump and via ign switch started it up.
Yeah!!! It fired right up!

Let it run for maybe 30 seconds and got super excited to finish this thing.

I'm now researching brake and fuel system and looking into aluminum driveline, fuel system and brake m/c and proportioning valve.
This car will be a street/strip hot rod restromod and my wife is as excited and I am to get it going.

Thanks for reading and all future help that I know I'll need.
 
Dec 9, 2014
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#5
Replaced the freeze plug, filled up with distilled water installed eng fan and fired it up again. Ran engine to break in cam (flat tappet) and check for any other leaks. Seams good so far.
Had to shut it down and get up to house for kids "santa call"

I purchased aluminum 15/16" master cyl. And a proportioning valve today.
Next project is to start/run engine and set timing then sort out what I'll need as far as brake lines.

Oh.. And dust the poor thing off so I won't be ashamed and more likely to post more pics.
 
Dec 9, 2014
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#6
Look! See a problem?
09d2f0d0c9f1d36c9b3b5d1c3abe996e.jpg

Hard for me to admit that I did this but after realizing my mistake it's kind of funny now.
NOT FUNNY AT FIRST!
Go ahead... Laugh at me :)
 

tos

SN Certified Technician
Apr 27, 2001
868
63
49
Cincinnati Ohio
#7
I'd laugh but that might bring back memories of some similar bone head mistakes I've made. It happens. Looks good so far.
 

horse sence

That $5 hooker turn out to be a guy
Mod Dude
Nov 29, 1999
8,303
2,201
233
Wile Coyote's stunt double
#8
PFFFT! Aint nothin . My first motor build ,i forgot to bolt it down ,Big dent in the hood after revving it . Opened the hood and revved it again to see what happened ,Is that motor supposed to climb out of the engine compartment like that ?:doh: Course i was only 15 at the time .
 
Dec 9, 2014
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#9
Well, needing to repair some rust in floor and toe pan so purchased the appropriate panels
81e32e35e42dace1d0997e3aa746269b.jpg

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Luckily this is the only rust on car, the cowl is in great shape and only thing needed is -LOTS-of screw holes all over floor pan. Most seem to be from mounting center console and cheap Kragen speakers (mounted behind drivers and pass. Seats wtf?) Prob. About two dozen screw holes need to be welded up.

Also noticed floor supports/sub frame) are bent/dented up from jack placement so I'll be replacing these. Just need to read up on does/don'ts with that.
So far I've got a can of weld through primer and P.O.R.
Really glad this is a California car with minimum rust.
 
Dec 9, 2014
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#10
On light duty (just got vasectomy) so I brought home a new steering wheel with deeper dish so the column (flaming river tilt with Gm spline) can be pushed in firewall a bit more to help clear the Jba shorty headers. Using fatman crossmember and escort manual rack.

This caused me to install seat and dig up t5 shifter handle then for the first time in twenty years actually sit in car and pretend to drive it. Haha.
e400ff57fc8ff62ae90c783b65bc00c6.jpg

Focus focus focus.
 
Dec 9, 2014
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#11
f0e64eeca8e39a43774c68f4c9d6231b.jpg

Twenty years later it's finally got a wheel set that fits!
(Please pay no attention to forklift air filter I've got stuffed on, I had it on my work truck and serves purpose for now;)
 
Dec 9, 2014
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#12
Well... Buying parts is easier than finding time to install.
50909224f1f61ca57b533c19ba767a9f.jpg

25a41122b1619455a5f5bb67c5d5d355.jpg

New style Mike Maier panhard rod kit. Looks great!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Dec 9, 2014
39
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#13
Ok. Slow day at work so stayed home and made some progress.
Removed both seat supports in order to straighten out some pushed in sections of floor pan and start on rust prevention
17be2e8f4f5e1d1c04e786162a70ab89.jpg

Once the supports were out it was just few minutes of knocking dents out from top.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Dec 9, 2014
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#14
Two steps forward one step back!

I’m back on this thing again
one thing thats been holding me back is it was built using a 1978 non-roller block and flat tappet cam with early firing order.
That just doesn’t play well with Fox body EFI system
There are ways to tune around it I just didn’t feel comfortable going forward so strip the engine down removed the camshaft in the process of selecting a good custom Bri there are ways to tune around it I just didn’t feel comfortable going forward so strip the engine down removed the camshaft in the process of selecting a good custom grind.
Another thing was the 30-year-old harness the tape and wiring loom were so stiff that felt like solid strand wire pretty intimidating when the whole harness is in the car but when you break it down to the few sections it’s not so bad here’s a picture of my injector harness before
View attachment 620216
And here about six hours later stripped everything down separated all the wires covered them with Tessa tape then braided loom then Tessa tape all the junctions and ends came out really nice and it’s flexible once again
View attachment 620216 View attachment 620217
 
Dec 9, 2014
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#15
Purchased complete wiring harness today.
(American auto wire classic update kit )
Hard to fork out almost 1k for this but it’s a really complete kit including ign switch, door plungers, relay bank, fuse box etc.
I’m actually excited to install
F521EE22-2DA7-4C26-9D7A-B7255A2C95BA.jpeg
 

TT670

Founding Member
Jul 10, 2001
354
5
28
#16
You can change the EFI to batch fire rather than sequential rather easily. Non HO 5.0L engines used batch fire.
 
Aug 23, 2014
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#17
You are gonna like the AAW harness. I have one still in the box that is going in one of my projects.
 

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