Ford racing spark plug wires.

No ford racing wires. They can not withstand the heat overtime. I had them and they were burnt from the boot on #5,7,8 cylinder. If you are going to use frpp expect to replace them well within a year, same goes for ACCEL wires also, Most of 8 mm wires and 8.5's will not withstand day to day hot weather engine temps of 5.0 but if you got a 4.6 you are all good with set of taylor wires.

Moroso "Blue Max" plug wires from either Jegs or Summit, @$79.00 and Motorcraft sparkplugs either AGSF-22C's or AGSF-32C's @$2.00 thru a dealer and gapped @.048 to .052

KillaGT said:

First of all , Thanks for the product you send me ( I receive it yesterday like you told me on the phone ) . I been want to ask how much you charge for fulse inject o-ring for my car. I keep those plug in mind, and is this the spark plug wire you are talking about ?

http://store.summitracing.com/partd...4294925143+4294756594+400105+115&autoview=sku

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yes on the Moroso plug wires and injector o-rings come in a Pak of 10 for @$13.00....oh and Thank You for the BIZZ

hollywoodstang said:

No ford racing wires. They can not withstand the heat overtime. I had them and they were burnt from the boot on #5,7,8 cylinder. If you are going to use frpp expect to replace them well within a year, same goes for ACCEL wires also, Most of 8 mm wires and 8.5's will not withstand day to day hot weather engine temps of 5.0 but if you got a 4.6 you are all good with set of taylor wires.

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the wires are 9mm

I have had my FRPP 9mm wires for 2 1/2 years now with no problems. I guess I am one of the lucky ones.

I have Ford Racing wires on my 96 Cobra, the pevious owner put them in 2 1/2 years ago and have no prbloems at all, they are even still bright red

I just wanted to add to this post, just incase someone actually searches for Ford Racing wires for the 4.6 earlier years.

I installed them on my Pop's 99 F-150 5 years ago because one of his motorcraft wires was shorting to ground when it was wet out.

50,000 and 5 years later the Ford Racing wires are still holding up.

In all honesty, any of the aftermarket plug wires will work well, and they are all vulnerable to underhood heat. You get rid of the heat and you get rid of the wire failures. The biggest contributor to underhood heat is unwrapped headers.....anyone fall into that category? I sure do.....so get rid of the heat. Cowl hoods are fantastic for this, also bigger radiatiors, low temp thermostats, or wrap those headers.....use your imagination.

As for spark plugs, the AGSF-32x series (C=copper, P=platinum, PP=double platinum) are neither rare, nor expensive. They can be obtained for less than $2 a piece at any parts store that sells motorcraft plugs....even Wal-Mart carries them. Copper plugs are the best for performance apps. Platinum is just for longevity and emissions. Do not be fooled into buying a multi-strap platinum whizz bang plug for $8 bucks a piece. They do not give an ounce of performance over a regular copper plug....though they may help by increasing power to weight ratio by lightening your wallet when you spend $70 bucks for a set of plugs .

For performance apps, you want as close to an ideal flame kernel and flame front as possible. The best way is with a single center spark, i.e. a regular style ground strap. Copper is a fantastic conductor, twice as good as platinum (unless you want to get a set of iridium plugs for $14 bucks a pop), so why would you want to use anything else? Longevity for the PITA of plug changes, thats why.

In high compression, high power NA apps use one stage hotter. In boosted apps less than 10# use one stage colder, for more than 10# use 2 stages colder.

So for performance apps that are NA, get a set of copper plugs at a gap of.054" and change them once a year. If you are boosted less than 10# use .035" and more than #10 you need to gap them down to around .018-.022" (to avoid spark blowout) and change them at every oil change.

If you have an ignition system that gives 40k volts or more. (MSD, KB boost-a-spark, or others) you can open the gap back up. You will have to find out on a dyno just what your optimal gap is and then dial it down by .004" to allow for oxidation.

At the track you should always check them at least after every third pass.

Hope this helps, if you need more info, just let me know.