Engine Foxbody idle/throttle issues

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I tested my TPS sensor while the vehicle was running. At idle I was at .98v, I had a friend rev up the car slowly all the way to 5k rpm and the most I saw out of the tps sensor was 1.19v

That TPS sensor is faulty. Replace it.

You shouldn’t test it with the car running, just turn the ignition ON without actually starting the car and then test it.
You don’t need help, you can manipulate the throttle yourself from under the hood while testing.
 
Even with the way I tested it though, it’s bad correct?
Just swapped it, however I can’t even keep it at an idle before it dies. That didn’t start happening until I did the timing so maybe I need to go ahead and do it the proper way. For the short period of time I did have it running with the maf plugged in I still couldn’t rev it throughout its rpm range. Same issue.
 
Car does not have to be running to check the sweep on the TPS. Go to post #2:

 
Car does not have to be running to check the sweep on the TPS. Go to post #2:

I'll be doing that next time I get a chance. Hopefully tonight.
 
Anything between 0.5 and 1.25V is acceptable at idle. You don't need to target a specific number (0.99 for example). Just turn the key to on. Do you have around 1V? then you are good. Depress the pedal. Does it go to more than 3.5-4V? Then it's range of sweep checks out.

A running car might have a slightly higher voltage. Might be 0.85v with engine off, and 0.86 with it running. Both are acceptable
 
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Anything between 0.5 and 1.25V is acceptable at idle. You don't need to target a specific number (0.99 for example). Just turn the key to on. Do you have around 1V? then you are good. Depress the pedal. Does it go to more than 3.5-4V? Then it's range of sweep checks out.

A running car might have a slightly higher voltage. Might be 0.85v with engine off, and 0.86 with it running. Both are acceptable
Just tested it. .95v throttle closed, gradual sweep all the way to 4.6v. Guess that’s checked off..
 
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I would get it timed correctly and see if your issue is fixed now. (The TPS might have solved most of your issue)

That way when you do upgrade parts in the future, you won’t have an underlying issue that could be further complicated with additional issues arising from swapping out more parts. Which makes troubleshooting harder.

Porting a set of GT40’s … well are you talking about gasket matching or the more in depth porting of runners and bowls?
It’s almost not worth the effort/ money to begin with, but the more in depth porting requires alot of experience & knowledge. Without it you could end up with a worse off flowing head than it was stock.

I say get it running and drive it some, you might not see the need for porting afterwards to get that handful of extra power.
 
I would get it timed correctly and see if your issue is fixed now. (The TPS might have solved most of your issue)

That way when you do upgrade parts in the future, you won’t have an underlying issue that could be further complicated with additional issues arising from swapping out more parts. Which makes troubleshooting harder.

Porting a set of GT40’s … well are you talking about gasket matching or the more in depth porting of runners and bowls?
It’s almost not worth the effort/ money to begin with, but the more in depth porting requires alot of experience & knowledge. Without it you could end up with a worse off flowing head than it was stock.

I say get it running and drive it some, you might not see the need for porting afterwards to get that handful of extra power.
The porting is free through the school. It would be full in-depth with the CNC machine aswell as flow tested. We’re in that class right now so since I applies to the school I can get it done for free. I’ll definitely get the timing done and such because I’d like to drive it here to get it done.