Build Thread Enola- Finishing touches

I'm just gonna go on record here as stating that I beleive that that clutch is gonna be your vibration issue. Think about it.

Manufacturers have been building those clutches to fit that bell housing for over 30 years, and now all of the sudden you get one that dont fit. The Clutch is part of the rotating assembly. If that pressure plate is somehow built incorrectly, you'd think that they know that you are gonna have interference that youre gonna have to clearance. That interference is because something aint right.....and now its spinning at 6,000 rpm. Unless you bought some sort of Chinee "Made last year" brand, then as soon as I discovered the rattling clanging noise after startup, and determined that it was the clutch,..I'dve been making my next call to the clutch mfg.
Does your engine have the block plate that is sandwiched in between the back of the block, and the front of the bellhousing that locates the starter?
I would agree with you if the vibration were there all the time, this is one of those only under moderate acceleration issues.
 
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I'm no expert but these may be the vibration issue.
20181102_090628.jpg
 
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Trouble shooting today, new plugs drove 40miles and pulled them. Cylinder4 is dead apparently, compression check shows 180psi. Here is a pic of the plug from that cylinder.
20181104_085124.jpg
You'd think that you would've been able to feel a dead cylinder. And if it's got compression, and the plug ain't wet, it's easy to figure out why it's not coloring like the rest..... if it wasn't firing, it'd be wet.
It's not wet,...so....injector?

But, looking at the other plug in your hand...it's insulator is white, the one between your fingers is tan...somethings goin on.
 
Wiggled the wires where they go into the ECU plug and now I have that injector pulsing again... this may be why I had missfire issues plague me for years now off and on. Going to try and tighten up the pin connection
 
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drove the car into work, she is running 100% better now. its amazing how one cylinder being down can create so much vibration.
Absolutely is does! Remember when I had a vibration/shudder during high load/low rpm this past summer? When you and I were talking and I thought my timing was off I discovered a loose plug wire to #7. Connected it and the car ran way better and the vibration went away. Hopefully you can improve your 60 pin connection so this doesn't happen again.
 
Wiggled the wires where they go into the ECU plug and now I have that injector pulsing again... this may be why I had missfire issues plague me for years now off and on. Going to try and tighten up the pin connection
Uh oh, so it was my big dumb feet while riding shotgun that dislodged them :hide:

I guess that's the last time I ride in Franky until you relocate the ECU underneath the seat :oops:
 
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Do you have the DIYPNP case that doesn't fit in the stock location? I bought this off ebay to extend the harness and mount mine under the passenger seat.....
http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-5...0001&campid=5335821607&icep_item=362397370621
You do have to re-pin some of the connections to make it a straight through cable, but you're more than capable of doing that. :nice:
Thanks for the link, I went ahead and ordered one to use as a harness extension. And if I ever upgrade in the future I can use it as a pigtail.
 
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I also ordered a set of injector pigtails, last night on the way home i hit a fairly decent bump in the road and noticed the miss return as i got off the interstate. I pulled in to the nearest gas station and popped the hood, after messing with the injector plugs the miss cleared right up. I am using the EV1-EV6 adapters and the stock harness plugs have all the clips broken on them from age. This will make a nice little weekend project, I need to find the bare crimp splices with a window in the middle. This way i can strip the wire short and crimp over the insulation then solder the wires in the middle of the connector, heatshrink and done.
 
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