Build Thread Enola- Finishing touches
- Thread starter a91what
- Start date
-
Sponsors (?)
Sparky714
Well-Known Member
I've been kicking around the idea of building a Dart SHP 347, maybe we could get a deal if we buy two
The whole premise of getting and flogging a JY engine baffles me. Why go through the extra work? It's not gonna be the solution to your problem.
I was half kidding when I suggested a JY 351. In reality, it's still an expensive solution.
A 351 will withstand your power objectives, it'll fit on the same mount pedestals, and your trans will bolt up to it. Your cam is the only thing that will swap.
The heads will be too small, the intake won't work, the headers won't fit, you'll need a new timing chain, and all of your custom built front drive will have to be adapted. And even after all of that.......it's a stock rod, xxx mile, hyper u crap tic piston-ed gamble.
A JY 302/5.0 is just a bomb waiting for you to light the fuse.....( read 10+ psi)
You will be in the exact same place that you are now.
Fixing what you have is the same thing as above.
Sooner or later, all of the 5.0 guys with forced induction come to terms with with the limitations of the block. Some find out the hard way when they end up with a hole in the pan, water in the oil, or parts sticking out of the block that used to be in the block.
Others just face reality, and take the pill.
The pill is that big nasty tasting one that has the letters D.A.R.T. on it.
The other half of my reasoning for a 351 is that...." On a budget"... Built reasonably, without a lot a fab work....it is your solution. With one caveat....
You just gotta dump that blower.
The 78 mm Chinee turbo on the Monster cost 279.00. You'll be able to find something similar.
You can fab up a hot side using your 5.0 shorties. You're injecting water/meth.....there is no cold side ( figuratively) Whatever intake you find will work. You will not have to rack your brain trying to make your front drive adapt. A set of decent pistons and some good rod bolts. Your willingness to accept lower power gains till you find a better set of heads, and a much lower machine bill than a dart block option will potentially get you back to a place faster than any path involving that jag blower.
I'm the king of beating stock sht to death. I broke a 351 in half exactly the same way a 5.0 fails. ( it took a fuel solenoid failure and a severely rattled engine making 900 hp to do that though)
I split a 460 cylinder apart when I rattled that engine off the line ( Again, probably 700+ hp,...too much timing, too much nitrous, not enough brains, too big of a head, too much, too soon( like a 350 shot, off the line))
" I guess I shoulda kept my mouth shut when I starting bragging about my car...."
I was half kidding when I suggested a JY 351. In reality, it's still an expensive solution.
A 351 will withstand your power objectives, it'll fit on the same mount pedestals, and your trans will bolt up to it. Your cam is the only thing that will swap.
The heads will be too small, the intake won't work, the headers won't fit, you'll need a new timing chain, and all of your custom built front drive will have to be adapted. And even after all of that.......it's a stock rod, xxx mile, hyper u crap tic piston-ed gamble.
A JY 302/5.0 is just a bomb waiting for you to light the fuse.....( read 10+ psi)
You will be in the exact same place that you are now.
Fixing what you have is the same thing as above.
Sooner or later, all of the 5.0 guys with forced induction come to terms with with the limitations of the block. Some find out the hard way when they end up with a hole in the pan, water in the oil, or parts sticking out of the block that used to be in the block.
Others just face reality, and take the pill.
The pill is that big nasty tasting one that has the letters D.A.R.T. on it.
The other half of my reasoning for a 351 is that...." On a budget"... Built reasonably, without a lot a fab work....it is your solution. With one caveat....
You just gotta dump that blower.
The 78 mm Chinee turbo on the Monster cost 279.00. You'll be able to find something similar.
You can fab up a hot side using your 5.0 shorties. You're injecting water/meth.....there is no cold side ( figuratively) Whatever intake you find will work. You will not have to rack your brain trying to make your front drive adapt. A set of decent pistons and some good rod bolts. Your willingness to accept lower power gains till you find a better set of heads, and a much lower machine bill than a dart block option will potentially get you back to a place faster than any path involving that jag blower.
I'm the king of beating stock sht to death. I broke a 351 in half exactly the same way a 5.0 fails. ( it took a fuel solenoid failure and a severely rattled engine making 900 hp to do that though)
I split a 460 cylinder apart when I rattled that engine off the line ( Again, probably 700+ hp,...too much timing, too much nitrous, not enough brains, too big of a head, too much, too soon( like a 350 shot, off the line))
" I guess I shoulda kept my mouth shut when I starting bragging about my car...."
Last edited:
I agree...a turbo is probably a much better solution, easier to implement. Obviously, you have a ton of blood, sweat, and tears in your blower. I wish I had a lot more money to spend on my stuff. I might actually want to work on it more. I can dream a lot bigger than my wallet can afford. The quick and easy solution is find a cheap shortblock, tune accordingly and get back on the road.
I get where you guys are coming from.
But, I dont have huge power goals... hell I still have gt40iron heads. I just need the bottom end to stop self destructing, called the machinist they did everything to the block except an align hone... they said I didnt ask to have it done, how am I supposed to know it needs an align hone? Isn't that something the machinest is supposed to tell me I need.
I just need to drive my car, it already makes enough power that the car is sketchy.
But, I dont have huge power goals... hell I still have gt40iron heads. I just need the bottom end to stop self destructing, called the machinist they did everything to the block except an align hone... they said I didnt ask to have it done, how am I supposed to know it needs an align hone? Isn't that something the machinest is supposed to tell me I need.
I just need to drive my car, it already makes enough power that the car is sketchy.
Steel1
Mustang Master
I would think they would have measured the mains to see if align hone was necessary, then inform you
and proceed as necessary.
Just my uneducated opinion.
and proceed as necessary.
Just my uneducated opinion.
- Mar 2, 2015
- 6,821
- 5,858
- 203
All the old machine shops I used to deal with would measure everything and advise what needed to be done.
These new machinists seem like total jokes....just like most new mechanics.
I say to tear the one in the car back down and find out what gave up the ghost.
Or buy this but hurry up...free shipping
https://sportcompactwarehouse.com/dart-10970040-iron-eagle-pro-sbc-227-cylinder-head
These new machinists seem like total jokes....just like most new mechanics.
I say to tear the one in the car back down and find out what gave up the ghost.
Or buy this but hurry up...free shipping
https://sportcompactwarehouse.com/dart-10970040-iron-eagle-pro-sbc-227-cylinder-head
I don't think it's that.
Wasn't that engine the same engine that had the small blower on it?
Wasn't it a running engine before that?
What ever happened the first time, happened exactly the same the second I'm guessing.
( probably had nothing to do with too much oil in the pan.. And was accelerated the second time when all of the old metal debris that didn't get flushed from the first failure embedded itself in the suspect bearing the second time.)
The rods guys......you throw in stock, un- worked rods and you wonder why rod bearings spin. 5.0 rods use weanie assed 5/16" rod bolts. probably is good for the original build only. Then rebuild the engine, never resize the rods, don't do jack to try and keep the big end intact with decent rod prep, and this is what you get.
If you're gonna build a time bomb, make sure you use good stuff to keep it from blowing up before you want it to.
This is not the same engine, all of it was used from a donor shortblock I got from JR. Put in good pistons and off we went.
To my current disgust I left the old shortblock that had low compression out in the weather, so it's not useable...
I already have a set of eagle rods picked out for when this thing comes apart again. For $260 I cant fathom why I didnt buy some the first time.
All the old machine shops I used to deal with would measure everything and advise what needed to be done.
These new machinists seem like total jokes....just like most new mechanics.
I say to tear the one in the car back down and find out what gave up the ghost.
Or buy this but hurry up...free shipping
https://sportcompactwarehouse.com/dart-10970040-iron-eagle-pro-sbc-227-cylinder-head
The listing reads "cylinder head" for 877.00. Not Block. 227 cc CYLINDER HEAD.
Notice the small print that says " some images may not represent the actual product"
Like this image....that is the actual product
- Mar 2, 2015
- 6,821
- 5,858
- 203
The listing reads "cylinder head" for 877.00. Not Block. 227 cc CYLINDER HEAD.
Notice the small print that says " some images may not represent the actual product"
Like this image....that is the actual product
That's crazy...and I was a lil' tipsy.... guess I'll have to buy a 350 block now..
Should've read the heading.
I bet they get a lot of phone calls about that $877 block from people that see that block and the words 'cylinder head' doesn't register.
like me!
like me!
Line hone vs. line bore. Line honing is almost a waste of money. It can only correct a few thousands. Line boring can fix a lot more. I don't think a line hone fixes your problem. I don't know what it is, but I doubt a few .0001 here or there is it. Seems more likely it could be a side clearance issue on the rod and like CMA said the trash from the first one.
I'd stuff a used engine in it and enjoy it while catching up on the 'honey do's' and the 'gotta finish this garage ' stuff and get back to that problem child that JR guy stuck you with later. After all he did 'give' it to you, so I'd blame him for giving you a lemon!
First time it ate the main bearings, if I pull it apart and the same mains are bad then it will be a align issue.
We can all speculate, it does raise a few good points.
We can all speculate, it does raise a few good points.
What did you use for assembly lube? I just looked thru your photo album putting it back together. Now, you probably didn't take pictures of everything, but when I put an engine back together, it looks like gallons of oil dripping off the rods. If all the mains and rods look like before, it's I think it's either too little clearance or too little oil. This time it's a different crank, right? All in all it sucks.
Yes different crank, lots of assembly lube used. I usually buy the summit assembly lube.
Maybe if you've been good this year, Santa dropped off a LS engine to swap. Otherwise, I hope you find an affordable and suitable replacement soon.
