Build Thread Frankenstang- Eaton M112 5.0 - On the back burner

  • Sponsors (?)


xecute

Active Member
Great stuff.

If I were you, I 'd have my machinist do a full disassemble and check for valve concentricty, and validate the installed height and spring loads of the valves. Often they are out, even on good heads.

Once thats done, re-prussian blue and bed in the valves to the inserts.

Common issues are the pushrod clearance and port positions. They don't have to be port matched if the intkae holes are bigger than your intake, and the exhaust holes are smaller than your headers. Engines make better power if the port mismatch goes that way.

The castings are good, but they do need to be checked. There is no such thing as a bolt on an ready to run set of bought in heads.
 
  • Like
Reactions: General karthief

CarMichael Angelo

I don't like your attitude, let me fix that.
SN Certified Technician
Nov 29, 1999
11,213
12,109
234
61
Birmingham, al
Wow...180cc aluminum heads for 1000.00. They were almost twice that the last time I bought a set. Good on you.
Now there's nothing stopping you from making every single digit in your power goal.:nice:
 
  • Like
Reactions: General karthief

a91what

SendMeUrDataLog
Mod Dude
Apr 6, 2011
8,337
4,847
204
30
Hillsborough county
OK so i am still waiting to hear something about my block, but while i wait i decided to go ahead and price 2 differing builds... the first is the 351 the second is the 393....
I now have the heads to support either variant of the engine, my blower moves more CFM than either can use = blower will make boost....
I have to buy pistons/rings for both
-the cost between the two is very similar, within $200.. both aiming for a 9.5 compression ratio for the boost.

What direction should i lean? i cant decide.
351 OR 393
 
  • Useful
  • Like
Reactions: KZGUNS and jrichker

jrichker

StangNet's favorite TOOL
SN Certified Technician
Mar 10, 2000
26,818
2,529
224
73
Dublin GA
OK so i am still waiting to hear something about my block, but while i wait i decided to go ahead and price 2 differing builds... the first is the 351 the second is the 393....
I now have the heads to support either variant of the engine, my blower moves more CFM than either can use = blower will make boost....
I have to buy pistons/rings for both
-the cost between the two is very similar, within $200.. both aiming for a 9.5 compression ratio for the boost.

What direction should i lean? i cant decide.
351 OR 393
The first question you should find an answer for is how are you going to communicate all that power to the ground? Just spinning the tires without quickly going forward is a useless waste of rubber and effort.
 
  • Agree
Reactions: General karthief

a91what

SendMeUrDataLog
Mod Dude
Apr 6, 2011
8,337
4,847
204
30
Hillsborough county
Car already has full suspension underneath it with subframe connectors, team z upper and lower control arms adjustable rear shocks ect... it was able to plant all the power from the 306cid +12psi.... so im hoping the 393 +5psi will plant as well.
 
  • Like
Reactions: KZGUNS

a91what

SendMeUrDataLog
Mod Dude
Apr 6, 2011
8,337
4,847
204
30
Hillsborough county
Rod angle and ring seal should be what you look at...a 393 has problems with at least one of those.
not sure... the rod ratio is 1.54 on a 393 with a stock rod... thats pretty close to the ls7 rod ratio and they dont seem to have any issues....

for those who are well informed on this stroker combo please advise
 

Anti_Hero0932

5 Year Member
Jan 29, 2012
321
167
63
28
LaGrange, MO
393 would be bad ass.... but i have heard a lot of people beating the :poo: out of the tried and true 351 with no problems.

not sure on the machine process on the stroker with the block but a plus to the 351 is if something were to happen you could probably re use alot of the 351 parts on another run of the mill 351 and not be out all you machine work.