Build Thread Enola- Finishing touches

well first oil change after the re- rebuild and i have this in the oil
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before i go off and curse all creation i am going to run it for another 500 miles and see if this is just stuff left over from the bearing replacement
 
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I-I-I- don't know....my " junk" that was in my oil change wasn't brass colored. You don't have a bronze dist gear by chance do you?

At this point, you got no choice but to run it for however long, and pull the filter again. I'd say since you didn't actually pull the engine apart there's a chance that that is residual from the previous calamity.
 
I would put cheap oil in it, start it, let it come to temp and change it. Several times. Wash all that :poo: down.

Have you had the valve covers off? I would make sure no trash is in the heads and pour oil or mineral spirits to rinse them down too. Maybe even 'fill' the engine up. Without starting it, maybe put 10 quarts of oil or mineral spirits in it and try to flush that crap out. I wouldn't drive it 500 miles until at least flushing out the oil showed no signs of metal.
 
Going to change the oil again this weekend, so far the oil pressure is good so im just driving it until something happens.

If you are interested in following my madman like rants and looking at datastreams you can join me here to read about how i am using the higher functions in the datalog viewing software to dial the tune in.
https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-fo...tuning-m112-eaton-custom-blower-build.904752/
 
Going to change the oil again this weekend, so far the oil pressure is good so im just driving it until something happens.

If you are interested in following my madman like rants and looking at datastreams you can join me here to read about how i am using the higher functions in the datalog viewing software to dial the tune in.
https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-fo...tuning-m112-eaton-custom-blower-build.904752/
That's the plan that 2 out of 3 dentists recommend for patients that do their own mechanic work.

Run it.
Rinse.
Repeat.

*edit...or maybe it was "Sugar free Trident is the gum that 2 out of 3 dentists recommend for patients who chew gum....."

I get these tag lines mixed up sometimes......
 
Well second oil change after driving it all week, I have been told this all looks like regular break in.... oil pressure is still good and motor runs like a dream so far...
https://photos.app.goo.gl/zGfmZRyExhjcUZje6

pictures are in the link above. tell me what you think.
That's exactly what my 1st oil change looked like. #2 had the bearing chunks in it. #3 was what I posted last night, same oil as #2, but new filter. You're on track, haha
 
I don't know,...that still looks pretty chunky to me...if stuff doesn't clean up significantly after this change, you have a different issue here Jeeves.

Collins oil was clean after change two, my oil was clean after change two,..yours still looks pretty nasty.
 
I don't know,...that still looks pretty chunky to me...if stuff doesn't clean up significantly after this change, you have a different issue here Jeeves.

Collins oil was clean after change two, my oil was clean after change two,..yours still looks pretty nasty.
All of that was in the filter, I haven't drained the oil yet to see what's in it. I am starting to think maybe i didnt get the block clean enough, or something is eating itself....
 
Ok so here is the filter from a single drive to work, looks like there is less in the filter. This is with a much thinner oil 5w30 royal purple stuff, it was free so i just used it.
First oil was 20w50 30-35PSI HOT idle 60 psi cold 40+ at highway speed
second was 10w40 25-30PSI HOT idle 60psi cold 40+ at highway speed
third [this one] 5w30 20-25PSI HOT idle 60psi cold 40+ at highway speed.

putting a mechanical gauge on it tonight to rule out sender issues.

here is the pictures of the oil filter today.
*note: i have not been cleaning the pan well, just wiping it down with a rag so not sure if some of the stuff is leftovers.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/QQXnNfmkP3SkhHzF6
 
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Ok so put an autometer mechanical gauge on the car to ease my mind. It agrees with my gauge on the dash, but not the gauge I am datalogging with. Ironically the transducer I am datalogging with reads low, glad that's the case. Put 20w50 in the engine and let her idle for 30mins and I occasionally blipped the throttle and held the rpms up.
My findings,
Cold idle 60psi
Hot idle 32psi
Throttle blip to 2k 40psi
Above 3k 60psi.

I dont think anything is wrong with this engine.
 
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Told you that you are good to go man!!!

Glad you checked it for piece of mind/verification so when you put the new transducer sounds like you need to calibrate it with the mechanical gauge attached.