fuel pressure question

I don't really know for sure, my mods are in the signature and i am running 38 and i set it with the vacuum off. Hope that helps some.

aod92 said:

I have a 92 gt with tfs heads, anderson b31 cam , tfs intake , 30 lb.injectors, mac headers, bbk h pipe, flowmaster mufflers, 255lph intank pump,accufab regulater a bunch of other bolt on parts. my question is what is the correct fuel pressure i should be running? I've been told between 35-50 Any help would be appreciated. Also my car gets hot at idle i just put a taures electric fan on my car and changed the wp to a standard flow because i removed the power steering. If the parts store gave me a reverse flow pump and im running the belt on it the wrong way would it over heat immediatly? Or should i look more at the fan being the problem? The car always ran cool before i made these changes. thanks for any help.

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Start with stock fuel pressure 38-40psi and dial in from there.

Can't say for sure on the pump. There should be some way to visually verify that you have the correct pump though, but I wouldn't know what it is.
How long does it take to overheat?
How hot does it get?

i would actually try about 36 psi.....dyno it....you have a way phat fuel system for your car

If you had the wrong WP on it, it would over heat when you drove it because it wouldnt be circulating water, so I wouldnt worry abut that. Maybe it's running leaner than it used to causing it to run a little hoter? Just a thought.

aod92 said:

The car never overheats it just gets real hot from what it use to be. But after about ten min. of driving when i'm idle you can see the temp rising at a fast pace. Am i getting enough power to the fan ? Its hooked up to a toggle inside the car and i wired it with a relay .

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First thing is to quantify "hot"
Where is the gauge reading. I ask because sometimes people panic when the coolant hits 200F, but that is exactly where most engines will want to be. Let us know where the temps read on the gauge.
Stock gauge I assume?
What temp is the t-stat?

It very well could be that the high volume water pump that you replaced is needed for your setup. A good flush of the coolant system is never a bad idea.
Then again it could be as simple as some air pockets stuck in the cooling system, so burping the system could solve the problem.

Hope this helps in some way,
jason

aod92 said:

The stock gauge will get about 1-2 notches from red if i idle to long. As long as i keep driving the gauge will not go past the halfway mark. The t-stat i have is a 160. And how do i burp the system never done that before? Thanks for any help.

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That is too hot, especially for a 160 stat. Where does the temp stay at cruising speed? Does it vary with vehicle speed? For example; cooler when running 60mph than when at 25mph? This can indicate insufficient airflow problems.

Any time the coolant is drained, air enters the system. When the system is then refilled with coolant some of that air will remain. As the engine gets warm the air will collect in high spots in the cooling system and prevent the coolant from flowing.
The solution is to leave the rad cap off (never remove when hot) when you start the engine after cooling system work. Run the car at idle until the t-stat opens up and coolant begins to flow. Some people also like to use a jack to raise the rad cap side of the car a few inches to help the air escape. Let the engine run for several minutes with the heater cranked (not sure if that really helps but that's how I have always done it). This should purge all of the air pockets from the cooling system. This should be oultlined in the Haynes or Chiltons manuals, I think?

I don't recommend it now, but once you have the cooling system functioning properly, I would suggest using a 180 stat. There is evidence that coolant temps below 180-190 range will decrease engine life, performance, and economy. Personally, I run a 197F.

jason

aod92 said:

Could my t-stat be messed up? maybe it isn't opening.

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Sure, could be.

In my experience though when a problem starts with a modification/change, most often the problem is the result of the modification, or something that was done inadvertantly during the modification. Parts do fail but the odds of them failing when you make a moadification are fairly slim.
All I am trying to say is that you should focus on what changes you made to the system for the cause of performance changes.

If you didn't purge the air from the coolant system when you changed the water pump, i would start with that. It could turn out to be a free and easy fix.

Keep us posted on how things are going for you.