Fuel Pump For 1994 V6

taliweinstein · Nov 15, 2015

I recently bought a 1994 V6 for my senior project. It idles fine and drives okay but once I get on the road going about 50 or so it starts to sputter and will stall or jerk when I change gear. The car has over 300k miles on it with a rebuilt engine and trans but it feels like the engine just isn't getting enough fuel to stay running while driving. When the engine shuts off I usually just pull over and wait with the ignition on and the engine off and let it get fuel pressure back. I ordered a new fuel filter but I want to do the fuel pump also. Where can I find a direct replacement fuel pump? I want the cheapest one out there the engine will remain stock for now so I don't need an increased flow one or anything like that. Can anyone recommend a direct replacement?
Thanks!

jrichker · Nov 15, 2015

Don't throw parts at a problem, dump the codes and see what the computer thinks is wrong. The 94-95 Mustang V6 has an OBDII computer, and many auto parts stores will loan, or rent a code scanner or dump the codes for you. The same thing is true of a fuel pressure test gauge - the auto parts store will loan, rent or test it for you. The fuel pressure test gauge can be used to check the fuel pressure BEFORE replacing an expensive fuel pump.

Check fuel pressure:
The local auto parts store may rent or loan a fuel pressure test gauge if you don't have one.
Disconnect the vacuum line from the fuel pressure regulator. Check it for evidence of fuel present in the line by removing it and blowing air through it. If you find fuel, the fuel pressure regulator has failed. Reinstall the line; leave the fuel pressure regulator end of the vacuum line disconnected. Then cap or plug the open end of the vacuum line and stow it out of the way.
Connect the fuel pressure test gauge to the Schrader port located just behind the alternator.
Turn the ignition switch on & start the engine. Observe the pressure: you should see 37-41 PSI at idle.
Turn the ignition off; reconnect the vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator. Then disconnect the fuel pressure test gauge. Watch out for squirting gas when you do this.

taliweinstein · Nov 15, 2015

Okay I have an OBD scanner so I should have done that already. Ill head to the parts store and try to borrow a fuel pressure test gauge. Thank you for the advice!

taliweinstein · Nov 22, 2015

jrichker said:
Don't throw parts at a problem, dump the codes and see what the computer thinks is wrong. The 94-95 Mustang V6 has an OBDII computer, and many auto parts stores will loan, or rent a code scanner or dump the codes for you. The same thing is true of a fuel pressure test gauge - the auto parts store will loan, rent or test it for you. The fuel pressure test gauge can be used to check the fuel pressure BEFORE replacing an expensive fuel pump.

Check fuel pressure:
The local auto parts store may rent or loan a fuel pressure test gauge if you don't have one.
Disconnect the vacuum line from the fuel pressure regulator. Check it for evidence of fuel present in the line by removing it and blowing air through it. If you find fuel, the fuel pressure regulator has failed. Reinstall the line; leave the fuel pressure regulator end of the vacuum line disconnected. Then cap or plug the open end of the vacuum line and stow it out of the way.
Connect the fuel pressure test gauge to the Schrader port located just behind the alternator.
Turn the ignition switch on & start the engine. Observe the pressure: you should see 37-41 PSI at idle.
Turn the ignition off; reconnect the vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator. Then disconnect the fuel pressure test gauge. Watch out for squirting gas when you do this.

Tested the fuel pressure today and it was a solid 40 PSI even when the engine started to run rough and stall. Not sure what else it could be. I replaced the fuel filter cause it needed it anyways. Any suggestions on what else it could be? Should I do plugs and wires?

jrichker · Nov 22, 2015

taliweinstein said:
Tested the fuel pressure today and it was a solid 40 PSI even when the engine started to run rough and stall. Not sure what else it could be. I replaced the fuel filter cause it needed it anyways. Any suggestions on what else it could be? Should I do plugs and wires?

You just saved yourself about $120 and 2-4 hours of labor with no fix to your problem. Now you understand why I say OTTD, observe, test, think and diagnose.

The next thing is to dump the codes and see what you get.

taliweinstein · Nov 22, 2015

jrichker said:
You just saved yourself about $120 and 2-4 hours of labor with no fix to your problem. Now you understand why I say OTTD, observe, test, think and diagnose.

The next thing is to dump the codes and see what you get.

Thank you for the tip! The OBD port does not work could there be a fuse blown that is preventing that from working?

jrichker · Nov 22, 2015

taliweinstein said:
Thank you for the tip! The OBD port does not work could there be a fuse blown that is preventing that from working?

Only if the computer isn't getting power. The OBDII port is under the dash on the driver's side. The one under the hood if present, isn't wired to the computer.

taliweinstein · Nov 22, 2015

jrichker said:
Only if the computer isn't getting power. The OBDII port is under the dash on the driver's side. The one under the hood if present, isn't wired to the computer.

Okay I'll try to get the codes next. Is there anything that could be preventing power getting to the OBD port in the drivers foot well?

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