3/8 plastic. Go to Post #8 and it’s the bottom link to another thread on it. I will update the parts list on here with the fuel line, fittings, etc.
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Fuel Fuel Pump Rewire, New Fuel Lines, and Installation of New Fuel Pump Hanger with AN6 Connections
- Thread starter AeroCoupe
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Got the Pro-M hanger and as far as I can tell is it a quality piece.
I got the factory connector off by drilling the rivets on the bottom side of the flange and then opened the holes up to 9/32" and was able to install the grommets with some persuasion as I wanted them to fit as tight as possible:
Got the fuel pump connector made up and popped that on the pump and fed the wires through the grommets:
Laid out the wiring path for the pump and sending unit on the tank and made the cuts on the fuel pump wires for the Weatherpack fitting that will be under the car so I can take the tank out at a later date with no issues:
Having the correct crimping tool is a must with these fittings. I have and highly recommend the following crimpers:
Sargent 3302 WPCT Crimping Tool for Aptiv Weather-Pack Terminals, 12-10 Ga.
Sargent 3301 WPCT Crimping Tool for Aptiv Weather-Pack Terminals, 20-14 Ga.
I get most of my stuff off of Waytek Wire (https://www.waytekwire.com/) as they seem to have good prices and they ship fast.
Mixed some epoxy up and applied that to the wires and grommets on both sides of the fuel hat flange and its supposed to get down into the high 30's this evening so that is curing in the house overnight.
I got the factory connector off by drilling the rivets on the bottom side of the flange and then opened the holes up to 9/32" and was able to install the grommets with some persuasion as I wanted them to fit as tight as possible:
Got the fuel pump connector made up and popped that on the pump and fed the wires through the grommets:
Laid out the wiring path for the pump and sending unit on the tank and made the cuts on the fuel pump wires for the Weatherpack fitting that will be under the car so I can take the tank out at a later date with no issues:
Having the correct crimping tool is a must with these fittings. I have and highly recommend the following crimpers:
Sargent 3302 WPCT Crimping Tool for Aptiv Weather-Pack Terminals, 12-10 Ga.
Sargent 3301 WPCT Crimping Tool for Aptiv Weather-Pack Terminals, 20-14 Ga.
I get most of my stuff off of Waytek Wire (https://www.waytekwire.com/) as they seem to have good prices and they ship fast.
Mixed some epoxy up and applied that to the wires and grommets on both sides of the fuel hat flange and its supposed to get down into the high 30's this evening so that is curing in the house overnight.
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Epoxy set up really well overnight so hopefully I can grab some time in the garage this evening and get the pump installed. Have to modify the tank to get the return line to clear but its very minor and a file will take care of it. I will post the instructions for the Pro-M hanger as they do not mention this on their website.
Supposed to be decent weather this weekend so hopefully I can get the outside of the fuel tank cleaned up and the top painted so I can put the new pads on the top. I ended up buying a roll of black 1/4" closed cell foam that is 17" wide X 80" long off of Amazon that I will make the pads out of. Just cannot bring myself to buy the $50 kit from LMR and everything I read about it says its too thick. I measured the existing pads and they are right at 1/8" to 3/16" thick so 1/4" closed cell should do the trick. Foam gets to the house tomorrow so I can see if its going to work or not. I already have some 1/8" thick closed cell so if I need to make it thicker I will just glue that on top of the 1/4". With a clean tank and fresh paint the 3M Super 77 spray adhesive should do the trick.
Supposed to be decent weather this weekend so hopefully I can get the outside of the fuel tank cleaned up and the top painted so I can put the new pads on the top. I ended up buying a roll of black 1/4" closed cell foam that is 17" wide X 80" long off of Amazon that I will make the pads out of. Just cannot bring myself to buy the $50 kit from LMR and everything I read about it says its too thick. I measured the existing pads and they are right at 1/8" to 3/16" thick so 1/4" closed cell should do the trick. Foam gets to the house tomorrow so I can see if its going to work or not. I already have some 1/8" thick closed cell so if I need to make it thicker I will just glue that on top of the 1/4". With a clean tank and fresh paint the 3M Super 77 spray adhesive should do the trick.
Found a video of a guy using the ETFE plastic line from front to back on his Mustang but unfortunately no real details on how he went about it. He kept the metal lines from the rails to down below the alternator and tied the new fuel lines in a this point. I punted them and ran some AN6 braided teflon line from the rails, down and behind the alternator, and then up and around the subframe at the front part of the wheel well liner. I will post up pictures when I get it all finished.
View: https://youtu.be/obH6t7RqqdI
View: https://youtu.be/obH6t7RqqdI
Got the old padding off the tank so I have patterns to cut the new ones from. Just used a hair dryer and a putty knife to get them off.
Left the adhesive and small thin patches of the old pads here and there. Will use a fine wire wheel on the cordless drill to clean that off, remove the heavy deposits of road grime, and address any surface rust. From there I was thinking wheel cleaner and a scrub brush to get the film of oil (valve cover leak from years ago) and dirt off of the rest of it. Anything more stubborn I’ll use some brake cleaner on. The bottom of the tank looks really good so I’m probably only going to paint the top half.
Left the adhesive and small thin patches of the old pads here and there. Will use a fine wire wheel on the cordless drill to clean that off, remove the heavy deposits of road grime, and address any surface rust. From there I was thinking wheel cleaner and a scrub brush to get the film of oil (valve cover leak from years ago) and dirt off of the rest of it. Anything more stubborn I’ll use some brake cleaner on. The bottom of the tank looks really good so I’m probably only going to paint the top half.
Long work day and it was raining so not much on the car. Did take a couple side by side pictures of the stock hanger and the Pro-M.
Feed and return nozzles on the Pro-M hanger are much lower profile than the stock one which is a plus.
The closed cell foam material came in and it’s a winner. Will make the new pieces tomorrow and hopefully get the tank cleaned up and prepped for paint.
Feed and return nozzles on the Pro-M hanger are much lower profile than the stock one which is a plus.
The closed cell foam material came in and it’s a winner. Will make the new pieces tomorrow and hopefully get the tank cleaned up and prepped for paint.
Started removing the left over crap on the as tank from the padding and a 30 minute job turned into a couple of hours. The top of the tank was evidently coated with undercoating so I stripped the top of the tank. Used a wire wheel as that was about the only thing available that would get it off. Wiped it down with acetone, primed it, and then painted it. So the tank won’t go back in for a couple days being it’s only getting into the low 60’s for the high.
Ran fuel lines from the rails to the rear of the car. Ended up using PTFE braided line from the rails to the wheel well. The metal lines that run from the rails down to the metal fuel lines are small diameter and the whole point of this was to get rid of the restrictions. I had the fuel rail to AN6 fittings left over from a previous project so all that was needed was 3 straight and one 45 degree AN6 fittings and 10’ of AN6 PTFE hose.
Used male AN6 to quick connect adapters to connect the plastic lines to the braided lines. Ran the two plastic lines from the front of the inner wheel well to the rear of the car utilizing the factory hard line path. Pulled the two lines through the 5/8 ID heat shield from the back of the front wheel well to just over the top of the rear end.
Installed the 90 degree quick connect fitting on the feed line, blew the line out with compressed air, and connected that to the outlet of the fuel filter. Installed the 3/8” ID heat shield on the return line as it will get close to the passenger tailpipe. So that’s where I stopped on the fuel lines.
Gotta get the tank ready to go in so I can figure out the rest of the lines but good progress so far.
Ran fuel lines from the rails to the rear of the car. Ended up using PTFE braided line from the rails to the wheel well. The metal lines that run from the rails down to the metal fuel lines are small diameter and the whole point of this was to get rid of the restrictions. I had the fuel rail to AN6 fittings left over from a previous project so all that was needed was 3 straight and one 45 degree AN6 fittings and 10’ of AN6 PTFE hose.
Used male AN6 to quick connect adapters to connect the plastic lines to the braided lines. Ran the two plastic lines from the front of the inner wheel well to the rear of the car utilizing the factory hard line path. Pulled the two lines through the 5/8 ID heat shield from the back of the front wheel well to just over the top of the rear end.
Installed the 90 degree quick connect fitting on the feed line, blew the line out with compressed air, and connected that to the outlet of the fuel filter. Installed the 3/8” ID heat shield on the return line as it will get close to the passenger tailpipe. So that’s where I stopped on the fuel lines.
Gotta get the tank ready to go in so I can figure out the rest of the lines but good progress so far.
Another thing I can tell you is when you have a valve cover leak or leaks and a pinion leak it makes a fukn mess under the car. I ever get a shop the drivetrain and suspension is getting completely removed and everything including the underside of the car is getting cleaned.
Needless to say I drove this car a lot back in the day and in all kinds of weather even snow. Surprised at how little surface rust is under the car and I think there would be less but it was bought up north before I got it in 2000.
Needless to say I drove this car a lot back in the day and in all kinds of weather even snow. Surprised at how little surface rust is under the car and I think there would be less but it was bought up north before I got it in 2000.
Work and cleaning up my F150 supercrew for 2-1/2 hours just to get the outside and door jams cleaned up bombed Friday as we ended up over at our neighbors to help them kill some adult beverages on their front porch. With spring in full tilt this whole weekend is consumed with yard and lawn work today and tomorrow but I managed to get the fuel tank finished up this evening.
I had to notch the fuel hanger entry hole to clear the 3/8" return hard line. Kinda sketchy but got it knocked out with a file and washed the tank out to get the fillings out earlier this week. Let it dry then hosed it down with some carb cleaner and wiped that out with a rag and didn't see any filings so calling it good. This is what it looks like after making the notches:
Instructions said not to get into the seal groove so I stayed just outside of it like the picture in the instructions. Have the seal installed here so you can see it is pretty close:
Took some pictures of the hanger when I was installing it which shows how close it is going in.
Took a picture of the hanger assembly installed in the tank through the vent hole with a flashlight in the filler neck hole. You can see how the return line pushes the returned fuel away from the strainer.
Couple of pictures of the tank finished up. Paint job is not the best finish but its way better than it was and being the tank is in solid shape I could not justify a new one just for the slick coating they have.
Hoping to get back on this later next week and finish it up as the weather is getting way to nice not to have the car on the ground and running.
I had to notch the fuel hanger entry hole to clear the 3/8" return hard line. Kinda sketchy but got it knocked out with a file and washed the tank out to get the fillings out earlier this week. Let it dry then hosed it down with some carb cleaner and wiped that out with a rag and didn't see any filings so calling it good. This is what it looks like after making the notches:
Instructions said not to get into the seal groove so I stayed just outside of it like the picture in the instructions. Have the seal installed here so you can see it is pretty close:
Took some pictures of the hanger when I was installing it which shows how close it is going in.
Took a picture of the hanger assembly installed in the tank through the vent hole with a flashlight in the filler neck hole. You can see how the return line pushes the returned fuel away from the strainer.
Couple of pictures of the tank finished up. Paint job is not the best finish but its way better than it was and being the tank is in solid shape I could not justify a new one just for the slick coating they have.
Hoping to get back on this later next week and finish it up as the weather is getting way to nice not to have the car on the ground and running.
Cleaned up the garage which was mostly putting tools up so I can find them and sweeping the floor as dead grass was all over the place. Ended up washing the fuel tank shield and the passenger inner fender as they were filthy and was tired of every time I touched them it looked like I had just used anti seize. So now I am going to have to pull the driver side one and clean it as I did not realize how much better a clean one makes thing look. Only issue there is my cruise control stopped working a couple years ago (horn still works and no ABS light so not the clock spring) so removing the inner fender means figuring that one out as well.
Stepped back after I slid the fuel tank shield under the back of the car to keep it out of the way and man I need to build a trim panel for the amps. Had one when I was running the Fosgate 10's but when I switched to the JL Audio 10's I had to decrease the air space in the enclosure so the old panel would not fit. One more thing...
Anyhow, back to lawn stuff.
Stepped back after I slid the fuel tank shield under the back of the car to keep it out of the way and man I need to build a trim panel for the amps. Had one when I was running the Fosgate 10's but when I switched to the JL Audio 10's I had to decrease the air space in the enclosure so the old panel would not fit. One more thing...
Anyhow, back to lawn stuff.
Got the system plumbed, tank installed, and finished the pump wiring. Dumped 4 gallons of fresh super unleaded no ethonal gas in the tank and jumped the relay. Pump cam to life and was not as loud as it used to be and then when the return gas started coming back into the tank the pump changed tones as the system was loaded and the regulator was holding back pressure and there are no leaks. Turned the key to the run position and manually turned the pump on again and the pressure gauge is reading 52 psi which is ten pounds higher than what it is set at with no vacuum. Pump is definitely digging the larger 3/8 feed line. Adjusted the FPR back down to 42 psi and pump changed tone but was steady rocking.
Will summarize the parts used and the cost later this weekend.
Will summarize the parts used and the cost later this weekend.
Was more of a wanted to see if it could be done as it’s cheaper to run the plastic. Was $60 for 50’. Braided Teflon AN6 is about four times that much and the fitting are way more expensive.
So ran the numbers and I was literally a couple pennies short of $400. That’s minus some tax and a few items had shipping so call it $450. I figured what it would have cost to run it in all braided it would have been right around $590 with taxes and shipping. So I got it done for $140 less and it was kinda fun to put it together.
If a person was to reuse the two metal lines from the fuel rails down to the frame rail the you could subtract about $75. I wanted the 3/8” lines all the way up to the fuel rails so I opted not to use them.
I ended up using braided line and fittings for both lines from the fuel pump hanger to the fuel filter and then switched to plastic on the exit of the filter and made a union for the return line. It was too tight and too many bends for the plastic lines to work.
I have a full parts list if anyone is curious. I’ll post up some pictures tomorrow of the fuel tank and filter install. I also rigged up some lines to connect to the lines at the rails to ensure I had the discharge side of the fuel pump connected to the feed side of the injector rails.
If a person was to reuse the two metal lines from the fuel rails down to the frame rail the you could subtract about $75. I wanted the 3/8” lines all the way up to the fuel rails so I opted not to use them.
I ended up using braided line and fittings for both lines from the fuel pump hanger to the fuel filter and then switched to plastic on the exit of the filter and made a union for the return line. It was too tight and too many bends for the plastic lines to work.
I have a full parts list if anyone is curious. I’ll post up some pictures tomorrow of the fuel tank and filter install. I also rigged up some lines to connect to the lines at the rails to ensure I had the discharge side of the fuel pump connected to the feed side of the injector rails.
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