Alright -- time to ask the audience. This is for the '67 Shelby-style convertible build in the sticky above. I've been planning on using the '68 Shelby convertible roll bar because I love how it looks, but something inside me resists non-functional stuff. I may go with a 4-point bar like the setup on the Unique Eleanor convertible and have the upholstery shop foam and cover it to match the interior.
What do you think?
OR
What do you think?
OR
malcons66
New Member
i like the 4 point, and its functional. but the classic one looks good to. but if it were me i would go with the 4 point.
HHStang
Member
Either will be great. I do like the look of the 68 though. PJx's question is a good one to bring the style forward.
PJx5x said:I like the 4 point. Is it possible to maybe use something like a latemodel brake light bar?
I have one on my 97 vert and it is definetly just for show and not protection.
It's very similar to the 68 style.
That said, I've often thought that somebody ought to take an NHRA approved rollbar and simply cover it like the light-bar is done, getting the best of both worlds.
As it is now, I can't run the 97 on a 1/4 mile strip because it runs quick enough to require a rollbar but I'm not willing to give up the good looks of the light bar.
What do you think Reen....maybe you could be the first to do this?
Joe
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70vert
New Member
I think convertibles should be flat.
I've never liked the look of roll bars on convertibles - that flat line with just the windshield sticking up is more my style - but I can respect the need for one on the track.
I'd love to hear some discussion on if there is ANY way to make a bolt-in roll bar actually functional. (meaning, if the car rolls, it doesn't just rip out of the frame)
I've never liked the look of roll bars on convertibles - that flat line with just the windshield sticking up is more my style - but I can respect the need for one on the track.
I'd love to hear some discussion on if there is ANY way to make a bolt-in roll bar actually functional. (meaning, if the car rolls, it doesn't just rip out of the frame)
steel1212
Active Member
I agree with 70vert, I don't like the LOOK of roll bars on a vert. I also am not a big fan of verts BUT if I had one it would have a functional roll bar of some sort...Go figure huh. To me it just makes sense...why have your head sticking out with nothing to protect it?
James Kirk
New Member
- Jun 3, 2005
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bnickel
Founding Member
sorry but i think 4 point bars on a vert look like @$$. the shelby style bar looks good though, not too intrusive. i agree with some of the others about making one that style functional, that would be the best bet i think.
limey66
Member
Why not rip out all the controls and actuators from a late model Mercedes, that has the 'pop-up' roll bar? That way you get the good looks of your 'vert, and the roll over protection if it all goes wrong.
Doubt you'd pass tech inspection at the strip though...
Doubt you'd pass tech inspection at the strip though...
bnickel
Founding Member
limey66 said:Why not rip out all the controls and actuators from a late model Mercedes, that has the 'pop-up' roll bar? That way you get the good looks of your 'vert, and the roll over protection if it all goes wrong.
Doubt you'd pass tech inspection at the strip though...
the merc is a 2 seater and with the stang being a 4 seater, it wouldn't really work very well. cool idea though
SNAKEPILOT
New Member
- Jul 8, 2005
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Is there a way to reinforce the Shelby roll bar with two extra bars that are hidden by the quarter trim panels? The geometry would not be as strong as the four-point pictured but it would be an improvement. What are the NHRA regs on the angles/length of the cross bars of a four-point roll bar?
chepsk8
Founding Member
70vert
New Member
bolt-in passes regs?
so does the bolt-in pass NHRA regs, for example? Do the bolts go all the way through the frame?
I imagine a bolt-in that were strong enough to work for its' intended purpose would have to have a reinforcement sleeve that wrapped all the way around the frame member in question to prevent bolts ripping out. Of course, the roll bar is one upgrade you never want to actually need . . .
chepsk8 said:I did this back in 1983.....
Bolt-In 4-point
so does the bolt-in pass NHRA regs, for example? Do the bolts go all the way through the frame?
I imagine a bolt-in that were strong enough to work for its' intended purpose would have to have a reinforcement sleeve that wrapped all the way around the frame member in question to prevent bolts ripping out. Of course, the roll bar is one upgrade you never want to actually need . . .
Are you looking at the 4-point from AutoPower? That's what I have in my 67vert, and I agree with those who say it ruins the lines of the car. But aesthetics had to take a back seat to safety and performance for me when I made that decision. For that reason (safety over aesthetics) I say do the 4-point. Also, if you are going to have it padded be carefull around the rear quarter area, the top mechanism gets a little close to the bar which is moved inwards considerably compared to the coupe/fastback version of the same bar. it is not impossible but you're gonna want some thin padding on the outside of the bar back there.
Other than passenger safety the other reason to get the 4-point is for performance. These 40-year old verts have a lot of flex in them. I know you have SFCs but they still aint gonna tie the chassis together enough without a stout 4-point (or better) up top.
Are you going to have a functional back seat? If not do the cross-bar, they also makes your safety belt setup much easier and more effective. I am not using one and would like to use a 67 shelby style shoulder-belt setup, but cannot find the retractors. Branda told me that there's some guy that makes his own and sells on eGay for ~$550 but I've not seen them or him. Might be another project you can get into and sell, the hobby definitely needs one if you ask me, even though they'd be low volume.
Other than passenger safety the other reason to get the 4-point is for performance. These 40-year old verts have a lot of flex in them. I know you have SFCs but they still aint gonna tie the chassis together enough without a stout 4-point (or better) up top.
Are you going to have a functional back seat? If not do the cross-bar, they also makes your safety belt setup much easier and more effective. I am not using one and would like to use a 67 shelby style shoulder-belt setup, but cannot find the retractors. Branda told me that there's some guy that makes his own and sells on eGay for ~$550 but I've not seen them or him. Might be another project you can get into and sell, the hobby definitely needs one if you ask me, even though they'd be low volume.
I don't know which one he used but probably not, it looks too thin. Mine is from AutoPower (sold by many vendors) and it is welded in and does not pass NHRA either.70vert said:so does the bolt-in pass NHRA regs, for example? Do the bolts go all the way through the frame?.
chepsk8
Founding Member
My bar was made by a Race Car Shop that did NHRA work. It was a bolt-through, with plates on the bottom of the tubes, and matching plates that went under the frame, so a sandwich was made, and aircraft quality fasteners to bolt everything together, 4 per plate. According to the shop at that time, NHRA legal. I was considering fron tubes from the mid-point forwards to help brace the car, but never did, as they restrict access. It was a heavy bar, I remember that! It also made the original back seat un-useable, so I build a shelf & back with speakers to replace it, making that convertible a roadster.
Remember, that was back in 1983, and today, the rules are so much more complex. To be NHRA legal today, probably a cage is needed.
Remember, that was back in 1983, and today, the rules are so much more complex. To be NHRA legal today, probably a cage is needed.
A 4-point meets NHRA regs depending on how fast you go
IIRC to break under the 13s you need a 4-point and to break 12s you need a cage. But they've got to be REALLY thick, kind of like the ones used in NASCAR.
I think your comment about the times changing are correct, probably has more to do with lawyers than anything. The bar I have even says it is not intended to be used as a safety device...LOL. Everything has a disclaimer on it these days, like the screwdriver that has a safety warning about not poking it into your eye!
IIRC to break under the 13s you need a 4-point and to break 12s you need a cage. But they've got to be REALLY thick, kind of like the ones used in NASCAR.
I think your comment about the times changing are correct, probably has more to do with lawyers than anything. The bar I have even says it is not intended to be used as a safety device...LOL. Everything has a disclaimer on it these days, like the screwdriver that has a safety warning about not poking it into your eye!
Dark Knight
Founding Member
If you ever plan on running it at the track, I hope you dont go faster than 13.49. A 4-point isnt legal for anything at an NHRA track in a vert. Has to be at least 5 points, and yes a bolt in bar is legal. If you're not going to put a functional roll bar in, I say skip it..
chepsk8
Founding Member
Today's Bars
Yup, the repro 68-70 bars are all taged as non-functional. If you are a truck-person, notice how they call those bas in the bed "Light-Bars", and not Roll Bars? Same thing, those pesky Lawyers...... :damnit: crapola amnit:
Yup, the repro 68-70 bars are all taged as non-functional. If you are a truck-person, notice how they call those bas in the bed "Light-Bars", and not Roll Bars? Same thing, those pesky Lawyers......