Getting Ready To Order MMR MOD 600.

definately opt for the ARP main studs. i know all the guys there, used to work there, they are all stand up people. i am planning on using their internals and building my motor myself.

forged crank would be a good idea

04YELLOWGT said:

Ok here’s the deal I’m getting ready to order the MMR MOD 600 and I need to now what all I need to do the swap. I know I should get the 900 but that’s over kill for what I want and I’m trying to do this on a "budget" I guess you could say. Plus were going to mod the Shelby .

Anyways I know I need the upgraded oil pump and also I was told to get the MMR Oil Pan but what else is needed. What if any gaskets do I need or headstuds or mainstuds. I want to get a total price on everything.

I’m getting ready to call MMR tomorrow but I want to make sure I have enough money saved up and what I think is going to be a $3500 job isn’t going to end up being a $4500 job if you know what I mean.

Thanks :SNSign:

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The engine dowels and pins. Like the ones lining up the heads, timing cover and the ones for lining up the bell housing. The ones in the your old block are to hard to remove.

head bolts or studs
head gaskets ( I used the frpp head changing kit tty bolts and gaskets for 110.)
rear and front main seals
crank bolt
pilot bearing
oil pan gasket (reused the old one. Prior engine only had 4k)
timing chain cover gaskets (reused the old ones)
intake gaskets
valve pan gaskets (reused the old ones)
manifold gaskets(reused the old ones)
oil filter housing gasket (reused the old one)
water pump o ring
thermostat o ring
silicone gasket maker
also
flywheel bolts
pressure plate bolts
OR
flexplate bolts
torque converter bolts.


If you plan on a lot of boost 18+ or changing heads later, then opt for the arp head studs over head bolts. I have heard of people lifting the heads around 20 psi with head bolts.

the98stang said:

forged crank would be a good idea

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Nope, a replacement Nodular iron crank is his best bet... great for a DD because of the reduced rotating mass VS. the forged counterpart, plus it is very strong. Bill Putnam uses the nodular crank in his car, and he revs that thing to 7000+ consistently. I'd say unless reaching for 600rwhp then a forged crank just isn't necessary, and that doesn't appear to be your goal if you're not opting to get the Mod900 sb