Got a rough 88 GT What to do first?

9

95.0Stang

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Feb 20, 2003

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Kansas

May 20, 2004

#1

• May 20, 2004

• #1

Basically I just got a Rough 1988 Mustang GT 5.0 5-spd, really needs paint and motor work. Runs, but has the rough speed density idle, 175,000 miles. I have about $1500 to spend right now, what should I do first???

Thought about doing Mass Air Conv first, and 5 lug conversion, and keep motor as is until the car looks better.

Eventually I want it to be a beautiful Black GT with a Cobra Rear Bumper cover, and Black Bullitt Rims, and a 93 Cobra Spoiler, all clear headlights, and cobra tails. If I do the Appearence stuff first I am going to dig into the door/body seals, and replace them, and do the lights, spoiler, and bumper cover. Then spend the rest on a couple boltons like exhaust, and throttle body.

Power wise I want AFRs/cam/Trick Flow intake, 24lbh injectors, gears, pulleys, 331 stroker, 5PSI Vortech.

WHAT SHOULD I DO FIRST GUYS??? Please help!!!

 

90mustangGT

I felt sorry for girls because

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Jan 15, 2002

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Dallas, GA

May 20, 2004

#2

• May 20, 2004

• #2

175K miles, wow, who know's whats up with that? Do a compression and leakdown test and see what condition it is in before you go about modding it first. A properly running speed density engine will run smoothly, at least until you start messing with the cam and all.

Fix what's broken, and if it ain't broke don't fix it yet.

 

cztt

New Member

Jun 23, 2003

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May 20, 2004

#3

• May 20, 2004

• #3

paint work for last

I would work mechanical work first. Then the paint work. I would clean the paint the motor compartment while I had the motor and other parts out. But if you paint the out side first, you will have to worry about oil, brake fluid, scratchs, dings with tools/parts to worry about. Besides, I would make the car run good before I spent money on the looks. I have a jeep that I am working on. The body/paint is last on the list because I dont want to worry about messing up the paint job.

 

venom88

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May 5, 2004

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Flint, Michigan

May 20, 2004

#4

• May 20, 2004

• #4

Breath better

I would start with the cold air induction and free flowing exhaust.

 

U

unclejackrock

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Mar 4, 2003

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May 20, 2004

#5

• May 20, 2004

• #5

cztt said:

I would work mechanical work first. Then the paint work. I would clean the paint the motor compartment while I had the motor and other parts out. But if you paint the out side first, you will have to worry about oil, brake fluid, scratchs, dings with tools/parts to worry about. Besides, I would make the car run good before I spent money on the looks. I have a jeep that I am working on. The body/paint is last on the list because I dont want to worry about messing up the paint job.

Click to expand...

Listen to this guy. I am in the EXACT same boat. I got a 92 GT that is pretty freaking rough... You do NOT want to be pulling the motor and the gobs of stuff that goes along with it on a new paint job...bad idea. Do your mechanicals first....But unless your gonna come up with some major green, the $1500 not even gonna touch what you have got in mind for the driveline, much less your appearance plan.

 

X

xplo89gt

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Jul 14, 1999

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Boston, MA

May 20, 2004

#6

• May 20, 2004

• #6

Paint is definately last. I mean unless you cannot stand the shape it is in. But with only $1500 I don't think you want to dump that all into paint.

1. Fix problems. Major/minor whatever. This includes compression/leakdown test.
2. Tune up.
3. Exhaust or Gears. Mix/match. Don't waste your money on a CAI just yet.
4. MAF conversion
5. If block is good, h/c/i (if you got the money you might want to combine step 4 to save a bit)
6. 5 lug conversion + brakes
7. Suspension
8. Drivetrain
9. Misc
10. Paint

This is just what I would do. And Steps 4-10 can be reordered or mix/matched. #1 and #2 Are very important though.
Good luck!

 

tmoss

Gettin Wired

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Jun 28, 2001

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Saint Louis, MO

May 20, 2004

#7

• May 20, 2004

• #7

Don't waste your money on an MAF conversion yet either - you don't need it. As part of the major tune up, remove and clean the Idle Air Controller (sometimes called IAB too) REALLLLLLY good. Gonna take some time and effort but it will be worth it - this is what gives a good idle. Also check/replace the vacuumn line going to the BAP sensor on the firewall - this has a pronounced affect on the way your SD car runs at any engine speed. At the back of the lower intale there is the PVC valve - remove it AND (important!) the screen below it and put new parts back in. MY SD car with 193,XXX has purred like a kitten since I did what I'm recommending.

 

85_SS_302_Coupe

it sucks (I know) to be on the receiving end

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Nov 11, 2003

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May 20, 2004

#8

• May 20, 2004

• #8

Like they said, i wouldnt touch the MAF, and i surely wouldnt be thinking about a 5 lug conversion untill the car is running better. That's like paying for a face lift when you need a heart transplant. If the leak down test and compression tests arent good, i'd spend that money on rebuilding the motor.

 

9

95.0Stang

Member

Feb 20, 2003

538

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Kansas

May 21, 2004

#9

• May 21, 2004

• #9

I was thinking about a rebulid, and body parts, and wait for the paint until october/november time frame so I can work on it myself at the local tech school. I am going to be doing a auto body class, and they always need cars to paint, and work on!