Headlight Halogen Sealed Beam H6024

tx65coupe · Dec 16, 2008

I replaced the regular sealed beam bulbs in my 65 with H6024 Halogen sealed beams back in high school when my Dad and I restored most of the car and it was my daily driver. Now that it has been sitting for many years, I decided to put new bulbs in it so its ready when the time comes to be able to drive it again. I was thinking about putting the GE Nighthawk bulbs in it, but couldn't find any, so I got the Sylvania Xtravision H6024XV bulbs. I just found the GE Nighthawk bulbs on Amazon if anyone is interested.

Anyway, here is my question/concern. The regular GE halogen seales beams are 35W low beam and 65W high beam. The Sylvania Xtravision bulbs are 55W low and 65W high. I wouldn't think that there would be any problems, but will the added wattage on the low beams cause any problems with wiring or fuses or circuit breakers etc?

If it will I will go with the Nighthawk. Its rated at 35/65. All of the research I have done showed that for the bulbs available in north america these two bulbs were the best or brightest, with the GE bulb being possibly a little better. This was all in capsule form like the newer vehicles. I wonder if the XV is brighter since the wattage is higher.

Im not interested in any of those blue "wanna be" HID lights. They actually put less light on the road. Beisides that I don't think it would look right on a classic anyway.

What is everyone else running for headlights and auxilary lighting?

I am also going to get a set of the factory GT lights. I know they are probably not the best for good lighting, but they definitely suit the car. I just like how they look.

Sorry this post is so long.

Thoughts?

bdepedro · Dec 16, 2008

I have Sylvannia Halogens on my car and they were so dim I installed aftermarket driving lights so I could see the road. I eventually installed a Painless headlight relay kit and it made all the difference in the world. We're dealing w/ 40 yr old wiring and switches in our cars and they just can't handle the load of higher wattage lights. The headlight relay plugs into one of your existing bulb plugs to pass the headlight signal on to a relay which receives power directly from the battery to power the lights. This way there is no load running through the old wiring or switch which gets more power to the lights. Easy to install and well worth the $150 or so if you drive at night. Just my $.02.

Tim65GT · Dec 16, 2008

You may encounter problems with either choice of halogens.

Here is a link to a write-up on headlight relays.

bdepedro · Dec 16, 2008

Nice write-up. Had I seen that when I was having problems I would have done it myself, but I have no regrets w/ the Painless. Good link!

stonecoldtx · Dec 16, 2008

bdepedro, I don't know anything about the Painless relay harness, but this one at Fordfuelinjection.com is about half the price . . .

RJM Injection Tech Headlight Harness

Grabber70Mach · Dec 16, 2008

stonecoldtx said:
bdepedro, I don't know anything about the Painless relay harness, but this one at Fordfuelinjection.com is about half the price . . .

RJM Injection Tech Headlight Harness

Have you used this one? pleased with it? I've thought of getting it when I put some Hella H4's in mine.

stonecoldtx · Dec 16, 2008

Grabber70Mach said:
Have you used this one? pleased with it? I've thought of getting it when I put some Hella H4's in mine.

Yes, I have it installed on my '70 coupe . . . uber simple to install, and it really improves the intensity of the headlights.

The price really is reasonable for what you get . . . if you want to build your own, you definitely can do it cheaper, but this harness is complete, well designed and thought out, and as I said, easy to install.

I'm very happy with it!

Grabber70Mach · Dec 16, 2008

Thanks, I've debated about making my own vs. buying it. Hardest thing that comes to mind on making my own is finding the proper fittings male/female for the
headlight connections.

tx65coupe · Dec 17, 2008

stonecoldtx said:
bdepedro, I don't know anything about the Painless relay harness, but this one at Fordfuelinjection.com is about half the price . . .

RJM Injection Tech Headlight Harness

That looks like a nice harness.

I know Painless makes good products, but with all the money thats been pouring into my Stang, over 100 dollars seem is too much.

The kit that I was looking at for my 95 F150 is from LMC and is about 30 bucks.

bdepedro · Dec 17, 2008

stonecoldtx said:
bdepedro, I don't know anything about the Painless relay harness, but this one at Fordfuelinjection.com is about half the price . . .

RJM Injection Tech Headlight Harness

I'm not familiar w/ that specific product but it seems to be everything you'd need and if it costs less than the Painless than it sounds like a good bet. I went w/ the Painless because I have used their products before but I would go w/ this one since it really is a simple system and saves $$ for all the other things we need for our cars.

Tim65GT · Dec 17, 2008

Grabber70Mach:

Thanks, I've debated about making my own vs. buying it. Hardest thing that comes to mind on making my own is finding the proper fittings male/female for the
headlight connections.

I bought some terminals at Checker a couple months ago. IIRC about 5 for $2 in a small pkg. They say for headlight sockets, but they also fit in the relay sockets.

Grabber70Mach · Dec 17, 2008

Tim65GT said:
I bought some terminals at Checker a couple months ago. IIRC about 5 for $2 in a small pkg. They say for headlight sockets, but they also fit in the relay sockets.

Thanks, what did you use for the headlight sockets and socket where the original
headlight socket plugged into.

Tim65GT · Dec 18, 2008

Grabber70Mach:
Thanks, what did you use for the headlight sockets and socket where the original
headlight socket plugged into.

I was making my wiring from scratch, so I did not need a plug to mate with the connectors that used to plug into the headlights. The old terminals come out of the connectors fairly easily with a pick tool.
The new wiring goes to the relays and then into the old headlight connectors with new 14 gauge wire and terminals.
You can just cut off, strip, crimp/solder and heatshrink your new connections.

Grabber70Mach · Dec 18, 2008

Thanks for the info.

66 Restomod · Dec 18, 2008

stonecoldtx said:
bdepedro, I don't know anything about the Painless relay harness, but this one at Fordfuelinjection.com is about half the price . . .

RJM Injection Tech Headlight Harness

I wish I saw that a few months ago. I paid about $120 for what appears to be the exact same thing from one of the mail order places.....

Rusty67 · Dec 18, 2008

t_chelle16 did a write up on this upgrade a while ago:
http://forums.stangnet.com/647826-headlight-relay-upgrade-w-o-splicing-into-original-harness.html

I havn't seen her around lately. That was a good write up and I definately plan on doing this upgrade at some point myself. It will also keep your head light switch from dying from too much current flowing through it.

tx65coupe · Dec 19, 2008

Tim65GT said:
I was making my wiring from scratch, so I did not need a plug to mate with the connectors that used to plug into the headlights. The old terminals come out of the connectors fairly easily with a pick tool.
The new wiring goes to the relays and then into the old headlight connectors with new 14 gauge wire and terminals.
You can just cut off, strip, crimp/solder and heatshrink your new connections.

I thought about making my own, but really would rather just buy the finished product. I may look into just making it. I bet it can be made for 20 bucks. How many amps do the relays need to be? Is 30 amp suitable?

tx65coupe · Dec 19, 2008

Rusty67 said:
t_chelle16 did a write up on this upgrade a while ago:
http://forums.stangnet.com/647826-headlight-relay-upgrade-w-o-splicing-into-original-harness.html

I havn't seen her around lately. That was a good write up and I definately plan on doing this upgrade at some point myself. It will also keep your head light switch from dying from too much current flowing through it.

This is a pretty nice write up and the links are good too.

l1k2gadd · Dec 26, 2008

I am running halogens in my 1966 289 Coupe. With a good alternator, a good headlight switch and properly aimed headlights the halogens seem to do a good job on their own. I run the same thing in my 1968 F100. The older original headlight switches may not like the extra draw of the halogen headlights. Be sure your high-beam switch is in good working order too. If your high beam switch is sticky I believe it can get caught between the low and high positions and overload the breaker in the headlight switch and cause the lights to flash off and then back on because it is drawing too much current trying to run the headlights and high beams at the same time.

tx65coupe · Dec 26, 2008

Thats interesting that you said that. I remember years ago when my 65 was my daily driver that the lights worked fine, but when I used the high beams very often after a few minutes of being on they would cut out and then I would I have to hit the foot switch several times to get the low beams back.

Do you think that the switch is bad? If I remember correctly, I think we replaced it.

I know as soon as I get it running again that problem is probably going to show it's ugly mug again. LOL... It would be nice to eliminate it.

When it was my daily driver I ran regular GE halogens with out any problems except for the high beam problem I just mentioned.

Headlight Halogen Sealed Beam H6024

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