HELP! Power Steering Pressure Hose R&R

ratchet with a long extension and a 11/16 crow's foot works on most fords for me

Remember that when you put the new line in, after it's tight, you can still swivel the fitting back and forth.

DO NOT try to tighten it until the hose won't move any more. You will tear the threads out of the rack.

I don't remember what kind of wrench I used to do mine, but I know I didn't use anything specialized.

The return hoses are all low pressure and are most commonly secured to the pump and associated plumbing with worm gear hose clamps. After a while they will frequently soften up at the end where they are clamped, and should be replaced. The auto parts store will sell you hose by the foot and it takes about 3 feet or less, depending if you have the fluid cooler in the low pressure side of the line.

The high pressure hoses have an “O” ring at the fitting end and will swivel even when the fitting is completely tightened. They are factory assembled and not repairable – if any end is damaged, replace the hose assembly.

You may find it is easier to drop the rack down to get to the hose fittings. The flex coupling for the steering shaft needs to be disconnected before you can get the rack out. You should disassemble the coupling by undoing the 2 bolts that hold it together.

Remove the two bolts that bolt the rack assembly to the frame and then pull the rack down. Get a catch pan to dump the fluid in when you disconnect the hydraulic lines. I replaced the rack mount bushings with some Energy Suspension urethane ones. When you re-install the rack assembly, put the rear bushings in the rack assembly and lift it into place. Then install the front bushings & washers and tighten down the nuts. Doing it this way makes room for the hydraulic lines without having them bind against the frame.