Here's Where I'm At And I Want You Guys Honest Opinion

from6to8

There's suction so I used that end O_O
15 Year Member
Sep 2, 2012
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Ok Guys I needed to start another thread because I want to start fresh with what I believe are the culprits of my possible problems and want some opinions. Last weekend I checked my TPS and did a sweep of the throttle blade with koeo and it moved smoothly. That was a test to see the volts from idle to WOT. I have narrowed my low end slight hesitation to being MAF related, vacuum leak, a Ground problem, or my overall dinasour tune from 05 with an Autologic 2000 software. Also my issue of wanting to die sometimes when put in neutral, temps over 80 degrees and humid when I cut it off and go to start it back up and it bucks, wants to cut off, ect, unless I give it gas then usually it was fine until as of lately when it was still acting up some even after I've taken off and come to another stop and crusing around the parking lot per say.

1. MAF sensor- I wish I could try someone's meter calibrated for 24's just to see if it would make any difference in how the car is acting. I've cleaned mines and over the years have been aware of how sensitive it is. I also wish i could buy one and return if it didnt solve the problem so i will explore my options.

2. Vacuum Leak- I have used the starter fluid method to try and find any and havent had any luck finding any. I was going to call a few shops and see what other method they might have of finding one , sort of like how they could find a coolant leak with pressure testing. Anyway, any method they might can use that I havent tried.

3. Grounds- I have visually looked at everyting, looked over things and didnt see anything loose or feel anything loose. I have heard that there can be corrosion inside the wire sleeves though. Now how will a shop fine that corrosion? They won't be able to visually see either so will they just want to replace them just so ?I mean the car is a 95 so maybe just replacing would be a good thing but I'm just wondering what method they will use to check all the grounds and me not waste money.

4. TFI Module- Still same one on motor when i did the swap and never replaced it though I have tried a new one on before when I had some situations that turned out to be the PIP in dizzy, stator. Everytime I have had that issue, it would have an intermittent starting problem when the car was warm. Since 02 I have put 2 PIP's on. Not sure rather I need to just replace the Module.

5. Lastly I have a tune that's from 05 and I know that software isn't even used anymore. Before I make a decision on a new tune I want to make sure everything mechanically is functioning properly. So basically just wanted you guys thoughts on some of the questions I had in the list I just did with some of the things.

ALL MAINTENANCE IS UP TO DATE AS WELL AS THINGS CLEANED, ECT.
 
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#2- blow cigar smoke thru the brake booster line. it puffs out of the leaks
What have you been smokin today Sir?
LMAO

.............Just googled somethign to make sure and bout to read it now. If you weren't being sarcastic I apologize lol

But thing is I don't smoke either so...............? Any other means of smoke? I'm bout to read it though
 
Trust me it works.
would getting a regular cigarette work? My dad smokes and always smoking when he comes over and it pisses me off sometimes lol so might as well put him to work if a regular cig is just fine?

Reading up on it it seems like I can take a line off that goes to the brake booster, the one running to the intake. Now would i take off the end at the brake booster and blow smoke thru that end of the hose so it would go through the intake and thru the system? Or?
 
would getting a regular cigarette work? My dad smokes and always smoking when he comes over and it ****es me off sometimes lol so might as well put him to work if a regular cig is just fine?

Reading up on it it seems like I can take a line off that goes to the brake booster, the one running to the intake. Now would i take off the end at the brake booster and blow smoke thru that end of the hose so it would go through the intake and thru the system? Or?
Smoker here, yeah I know. No cigarettes will not produce enough to see. Get someone that can puff a lot in there and stand back and watch. Two people is much easier
 
Smoker here, yeah I know. No cigarettes will not produce enough to see. Get someone that can puff a lot in there and stand back and watch. Two people is much easier
are u saying cigarettes will work but need someone who will puff alot of smoke in there or are u saying definitely a cigar but still need alot of smoke puffed in?
 
A vacuum gauge works good also.

Have you done anything to the intake side behind the throttle body? I am not sure on the 95, but on the Fox 5.0 there is a taper in the EGR spacer that creates vacuum. I made the mistake of machining that straight through to open up the EGR spacer once and spent a month chasing a vacuum leak that didn't exist ;)
 
A vacuum gauge works good also.

Have you done anything to the intake side behind the throttle body? I am not sure on the 95, but on the Fox 5.0 there is a taper in the EGR spacer that creates vacuum. I made the mistake of machining that straight through to open up the EGR spacer once and spent a month chasing a vacuum leak that didn't exist ;)
EGR is not on my car and is deleted in the tune also, so no egr spacer. Here is an update of somethings I did earlier.Car is running Super Super Rich also and I think it has been for yrs and yrs. In my garage, it reaks of Fuel smell. When my car is parked on the outside and I start it up to warm up, actually the grass in the tailpipe area and under the car turns brown. I had the car tuned in 05 with an Autologic 2000 softward that's now out of date and no one uses any longer and I probably should have been over the past 5 yrs or so gotten it checked out. The guy who did the tune has passed away so now that I'm more familiar and know what questions to ask, I cant.

Anyway the car has a low end hesitation, it drives sometimey. Sometimes stronger than others and no matter the season. Sometimes sluggish thru the RPMs. In the summer and 80 degrees or above and humid when I drive the car and stop say to get gas, when I start it back up it will die most of time unless I give it gas and revv it up. Once I take off usually I'm fine no matter if I go 20 ft and stop at a red light. But once it it's shut off and start back up that's when it does it again usually in that kind of weather. I just put on a new IAC valve just because I thought possibly it was time after cleaning mine since 02 maybe once a yr or so. I don't think it was bad though so I may just take it back. I recently got a code 122 for TPS out of range, too low. I checked the TPS after doing an idle set procedure and it was fine. I also checked it from idle to WOT and it was at 4.68 volts and had a smooth transition. It's set at .97 at idle.

Today I wanted to do some other checks so I let it warm up then I wanted to take a vacuum line off at the tree to see if it would idle different. I only could take the one for the AC off. It really didn't do anything so I wanted to try and get the one for the Intake off but the Clamp fought me. I then decided to take it off at the throttle body and it stumbled just a little bit and idled down from 1000 to 900 but it didn't cut off. I have tried the starter fluid method of checking for a vacuum leak and never have found one. I just read up on the Cigar method so I might try that one day this wk. Also , the purge canister isn't hooked up and the EGR was deleted via the tune. I think I asked about it before , the canister and rather that is a vacuum and I'm sure ai was told no it wasn't. I do know the other end of the plastic T fitting on the end of the canister is open. I might just put a screw in it just becaust though. Also the lines to it is definitely cracked not in the best of shape.

So those are the things that's going on and that I've tried. I am going to also take my TFI module and get it tested. But I have heard they should either work or don't. Also I want to get the Grounds, All Grounds checked. Visually they look fine but I would like to know what method a shop would use to check/test the grounds to for corrosion or anything that they can't see?

So there you have it man..... What do you think? Also, for that rich issue is there anything besides another tune I can do to at least sort of combat that? Timing is at 10 and fp at 39 with vacuum line off. I really wanted to possibly make some changes i.e. custom cam, and maybe a few other things if I was going to get another tune but not sure. I might just go ahead and get one and since I don't have a racecar I might try mail order as 64bit says he would give me a 14 day money back guarantee.

ALSO ALL MAINTENANCE IS UP TO DATE AND EVERYTHING CLEANED AND CHECKED. Disregard I copied and pasted some of what you may already read to post in another forum: