Progress Thread Hoopty v2.0 - Back in action!

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It’s just so damned expensive. It’s fun, but I have 10 other things I’d rather be doing
True. I spent roughly $600 upgrading the electrical box in my house just so I could add extra circuits for the air compressor and welder. Better than the $1300 quote I got for someone else to do it, though.
 
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True. I spent roughly $600 upgrading the electrical box in my house just so I could add extra circuits for the air compressor and welder. Better than the $1300 quote I got for someone else to do it, though.
Definitely. I’m about $400 in to wiring it myself. I’d bet it would be 5x that to pay someone to do it
 
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Just be glad your local code does not require that you use conduit. Much more costly.
Looks like you have it under control but if you have any questions man text me, I do this for a living. Or rather now they pay me to teach others how to do this.
 
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Special delivery today!

also been working on wiring the shop. what a pain!

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I need a "Jelly" smiley.
 
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Just be glad your local code does not require that you use conduit. Much more costly.
Looks like you have it under control but if you have any questions man text me, I do this for a living. Or rather now they pay me to teach others how to do this.
ohhhh I have mucho questions. I'll keep them here in case anyone else can benefit from the info if that's cool?

I've calculated the electrical load of the shop to be 90a, so I was going to install a 100a breaker in the main panel. My electrician tells me I need a 1-1-1-3 aluminum SER cable. How in the hell is a 1ga wire going to fit in a standard breaker?
 
ohhhh I have mucho questions. I'll keep them here in case anyone else can benefit from the info if that's cool?

I've calculated the electrical load of the shop to be 90a, so I was going to install a 100a breaker in the main panel. My electrician tells me I need a 1-1-1-3 aluminum SER cable. How in the hell is a 1ga wire going to fit in a standard breaker?
Aluminum will be larger than copper equivalent, how far apart are the two panels and how do you plan to connect them? [what size pvc conduit did you run]
 
150' run, and I am planning on using 1-1-1-3 aluminum direct bury cable. It looks to be rated at 115a which should be plenty, right?
sorta... you have to rate the cable at its lowest value, that cable is only good for 115A if the termination points are rated at 90*C... no inspector will pass that as the 90* column is only used for deration purposes.

most terminations are 75* rated, so the cable is good for 100A at that temperature, the best way to treat wire is if unsure use the 60* column that would put your cable at 85A...

bottom line is the cable will likely be fine and is commonly used in this application, make sure the breakers and panel lugs are AL/CU rated [should be] for use with aluminum wire and your GTG imo I would rather see copper wire and PVC for a permanent install but I understand budgetary restraints
 
sorta... you have to rate the cable at its lowest value, that cable is only good for 115A if the termination points are rated at 90*C... no inspector will pass that as the 90* column is only used for deration purposes.

most terminations are 75* rated, so the cable is good for 100A at that temperature, the best way to treat wire is if unsure use the 60* column that would put your cable at 85A...

bottom line is the cable will likely be fine and is commonly used in this application, make sure the breakers and panel lugs are AL/CU rated [should be] for use with aluminum wire and your GTG imo I would rather see copper wire and PVC for a permanent install but I understand budgetary restraints
Great info!

Yeah, copper was going to be thousands vs hundreds for aluminum.
I understand why loads are calculated how they are, but the likelihood of ever eclipsing even 50% of the load on this panel is going to be slim.
 
Ok, seriously, I am defeated by a damn spring.

The garage door is still stuck closed. After thinking the door was jamming, I messed with it Sunday and got nowhere. Finally last night, I noticed that the spring would stop turning after the door lifted up 3-4".

I unloaded the springs, loosened everything, and it spins freely. As soon as it get a load on it, it binds. WTFFFOVER.

I had a garage door guy say he'd be happy to come look at it, but declined to say when. My irritation grows by the minute.
 
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Ok, seriously, I am defeated by a damn spring.

The garage door is still stuck closed. After thinking the door was jamming, I messed with it Sunday and got nowhere. Finally last night, I noticed that the spring would stop turning after the door lifted up 3-4".

I unloaded the springs, loosened everything, and it spins freely. As soon as it get a load on it, it binds. WTFFFOVER.

I had a garage door guy say he'd be happy to come look at it, but declined to say when. My irritation grows by the minute.
A spring is a fairly easy fix. I'd call him again and get a solid time or find someone else. Garage door companies replace those springs all the time.
 
Makes me wonder if they are the right springs for the taller than average door.
Had a hard time with mine after a spring broke. Lots of trial and error tunning to get me 31 of the 1/4 turns on one side and 36 on other but my door works so nice now.
Quarter turn either way and it binded or would not lift weight of door. Was a PITA
 
Makes me wonder if they are the right springs for the taller than average door.
Had a hard time with mine after a spring broke. Lots of trial and error tunning to get me 31 of the 1/4 turns on one side and 36 on other but my door works so nice now.
Quarter turn either way and it binded or would not lift weight of door. Was a PITA
Eeeeshh. Those springs make me really really nervous.
 
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