Progress Thread Hoopty v2.0 - Back in action!

I have roll up doors, but they still have springs. The guys that put up the doors were supposed to install chain operators to open the doors with. They didn't and now they wont come back and finish the job. I'm really nervous about the springs unloading on me while trying to install those things. I hope you get yours sorted out soon.
 
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Progress! I picked up 165' of 1-1-1-3 aluminum SER cable yesterday and stubbed it into the shop and up into the panel. Although aluminum, it's still heavy and unwilling to bend, so it took some manhandling - especially those last few bends into the box as pictured. I got 3 circuits wired in and quit at the lift 220 (the orange dong hanging front center). But it was going pretty quickly and easily at that point.

Next is renting a walk behind trencher for a saturday morning to make the 150' run to the main panel. Once tied in, the shop will be hot and that should be that. I double checked this morning and being out in the county - there are NOOOOO inspections or permits required (except septic) so it's good to go.

I'm also getting about 10 bags of insulation for free, but that's for the wood shop. I'll do the car area later on.

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Finally, the garage door guy is coming this evening to try and figure out what the malfunction is there. I hope he goes easy on the bill because this was the last push and I'm spent for a while!!!
 
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Before you light that up.. dont kill the terminations but.. wiggle tighten wiggle tighten ect. until the lug has no more give aluminum has a bit more give than copper. you dont want to over tighten the lug but it needs to be seated correctly before you call it done
 
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Before you light that up.. dont kill the terminations but.. wiggle tighten wiggle tighten ect. until the lug has no more give aluminum has a bit more give than copper. you dont want to over tighten the lug but it needs to be seated correctly before you call it done
Good to know. I'll certainly do that. I couldn't live with myself if I burn this bish down, after all the work I've put into it.
 
Progress! I picked up 165' of 1-1-1-3 aluminum SER cable yesterday and stubbed it into the shop and up into the panel. Although aluminum, it's still heavy and unwilling to bend, so it took some manhandling - especially those last few bends into the box as pictured. I got 3 circuits wired in and quit at the lift 220 (the orange dong hanging front center). But it was going pretty quickly and easily at that point.

Next is renting a walk behind trencher for a saturday morning to make the 150' run to the main panel. Once tied in, the shop will be hot and that should be that. I double checked this morning and being out in the county - there are NOOOOO inspections or permits required (except septic) so it's good to go.

I'm also getting about 10 bags of insulation for free, but that's for the wood shop. I'll do the car area later on.

IMG_5691.jpg


Finally, the garage door guy is coming this evening to try and figure out what the malfunction is there. I hope he goes easy on the bill because this was the last push and I'm spent for a while!!!
Before you light that up.. dont kill the terminations but.. wiggle tighten wiggle tighten ect. until the lug has no more give aluminum has a bit more give than copper. you dont want to over tighten the lug but it needs to be seated correctly before you call it done
I also used some anti-corrosion paste on the mains when I did the electrical box install in my house. Might that be something you'd also recommend?

My current house was originally wired with aluminum. I was trying to research why a lot of outlets and switches say to use only with copper, and all I could come up with was the possibility of corrosion causing excessive resistance with aluminum wires.
 
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I also used some anti-corrosion paste on the mains when I did the electrical box install in my house. Might that be something you'd also recommend?

My current house was originally wired with aluminum. I was trying to research why a lot of outlets and switches say to use only with copper, and all I could come up with was the possibility of corrosion causing excessive resistance with aluminum wires.
aluminum is no longer allowed for use in branch circuits for homes, it was great until the terminations become loose.. a loose connection creates resistance- resistance creates heat- then further loosening- more resistance/heat ect.. until the device melts and is non functional or a fire occurs.

Paste is a good idea in any installation, we use what most in the industry call nolocks its an antisieze/corrosion inhibitor.

Devices are designed for use for CU [copper circuits] some are CU/AL rated but most are not... to fix the wiring to satisfy insurance requirements you can remove all the devices and pigtail copper conductors onto the aluminum wiring using a [wirenut] that is rated for cu/al connection, then reinstall the devices onto the now copper pigtails. Its normally a code violation to use a panel as a junction box [not supposed to make splices in a panel] but you can do the same in the panel and then land the copper conductors on the breaker if it is not rated for an AL conductor. I have seen this done and accepted by an AHJ but IMHO it is best to buy newer breakers that are ARC/GFCI protected and rated for a AL termination.... doing so will also satisfy the "new" code for arc protection in the home.
 
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aluminum is no longer allowed for use in branch circuits for homes, it was great until the terminations become loose.. a loose connection creates resistance- resistance creates heat- then further loosening- more resistance/heat ect.. until the device melts and is non functional or a fire occurs.

Paste is a good idea in any installation, we use what most in the industry call nolocks its an antisieze/corrosion inhibitor.

Devices are designed for use for CU [copper circuits] some are CU/AL rated but most are not... to fix the wiring to satisfy insurance requirements you can remove all the devices and pigtail copper conductors onto the aluminum wiring using a [wirenut] that is rated for cu/al connection, then reinstall the devices onto the now copper pigtails. Its normally a code violation to use a panel as a junction box [not supposed to make splices in a panel] but you can do the same in the panel and then land the copper conductors on the breaker if it is not rated for an AL conductor. I have seen this done and accepted by an AHJ but IMHO it is best to buy newer breakers that are ARC/GFCI protected and rated for a AL termination.... doing so will also satisfy the "new" code for arc protection in the home.
I used a Square D panel and breakers in my house that were rated for CU/AL. The only circuits in there that are copper are the ones I added for the air compressor and welder.

Thanks for the info.
 
Clutches aren't supposed to have straps. You're just supposed to hold it, hence the name "clutch."

You're going to cause him to commit another mistake like the garage door springs!

He's going to need the correct accessories if he's going to accessorize! ;)

I can't keep up with all the new rules. :nonono:


:thinking:


Use the big fork first!



but I dunno why :(
 
More work on the shop! Got permanent power finally, so we're one step closer to... something. Not even sure what the end game is anymore, BUT! everything works. Here's some pics.
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The "ceiling 220v" is for a lift. *rubs hands diabolically*

As far as the fox goes - I have an order for 4 tables which should net around $500. More than enough to buy the parts I need to get back on the road. Then, I plan on starting to collect parts for a 5 lug/big brake swap. Of course, this will be funded by wood projects, so it may take a few months.
 
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