Progress Thread Hoopty v2.0 - Back in action!

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I use the copper spray and when I asked my engine builder if I should be using it or not he said to use it and don't listen to the internet experts.
As an aside, I don't claim to be an internet expert, so take that for what it is worth...Lol
 
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It runs! Started on the first try. Got an intake spacer, bolted it on, twisted the key and it roared to life like nothing ever happened. That's all I had time for today, Ill update more soon.

I have a 30 second video, but the uploader says it's too big.
 
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I was able to burp it and get out around the neighborhood today. The idle is a basket case. I’ve subscribed to Steve’s YouTube channel and will get smart on closed loop idle and see what I can make happen.

Question- how far to vert mounts drop the engine? I need it to go down a bit.

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My video do a pretty good job explaining how to get a solid idle. I do have a bag of tricks I can show you if you don't get it the way you want it.
Ive watched all the videos this morning. I think I need to watch them 3x to understand WHY you do what you do so I can adjust them later on to fine tune. Anyway, awesome channel, and thanks for taking the time to do that!
 
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So I got it to idle pretty well in closed loop at around 875 rpm, However, it's pretty sensitive to changes. I'm going to re-watch the videos and see if I can figure out what to mess with to get it to be more ... robust? Adaptive to change? I'm trying to say I want to make it return to idle quickly and confidently. Now it surges and dies without me feathering the throttle.
 

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Looking at the tune.

Idle settings > valve HZ I would set this much higher, like 313 at the lowest. FWIW most other tuning systems run them at 440HZ.
when you change the HZ you will need to reset the minimum and maximum valve % in the closed loop page.

Get more aggressive with timing control. dont be afraid to make it do what you want with timing.
 
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Just FYI...on my car I routed that AC line down behind the alternator and zip tied it to the alternator bracket. It's out of the way and no issues. I didn't have to bend the metal line itself but did bend the line from the condenser towards the drivers side a little.
 
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I took the liberty of making some quick changes to the tune. Notice the fuel changes i made as it drops back twards idle and the changes to the ign table.
So I got to look through this, just a few questions to satisfy my curiosity:

- Does the higher valve frequency give better idle control? Everything I have seen on the ford IACs, including your video showed a sub 100hz frequency
- Why do some people run inverted and some not on Ford IACs?
- Ill admit to not doing the IAC duty cycle test yet. I need to do that and get the actual values I need
- The idle screw on the TB needs to be all the way out, and TB 100% closed, right?

Thanks again for looking through this. It's frustrating sitting in the car and knowing things need to be adjusted and being in the general neighborhood, but still not being able to get there. Just need to keep watching videos and understanding what everything does I guess.

Edit: The car idles great now. The next issue is it wont start and stay idling without some throttle. I tried messing with the ASE and ASE taper but I have no frame of reference on what the values need to be. Ill look into that on yutubes and see what I can find.
 
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So I got to look through this, just a few questions to satisfy my curiosity:

- Does the higher valve frequency give better idle control? Everything I have seen on the ford IACs, including your video showed a sub 100hz frequency
I have found that a higher HZ gives better control
- Why do some people run inverted and some not on Ford IACs?
That's hardware based, if 0% is full on then we have to reverse it in the software so that 0% is now off.
- Ill admit to not doing the IAC duty cycle test yet. I need to do that and get the actual values I need
- The idle screw on the TB needs to be all the way out, and TB 100% closed, right?
Just close to it. I set the TB so that my lowest rpm I want is idle valve 30%
Thanks again for looking through this. It's frustrating sitting in the car and knowing things need to be adjusted and being in the general neighborhood, but still not being able to get there. Just need to keep watching videos and understanding what everything does I guess.

Edit: The car idles great now. The next issue is it wont start and stay idling without some throttle. I tried messing with the ASE and ASE taper but I have no frame of reference on what the values need to be. Ill look into that on yutubes and see what I can find.
ASE 45%cold to 35% hot
Taper 450 cold to 350 hot

These are good start numbers.

For your issue I would first datalog the start and watch what the idle pwm is doing the valve may not be acting like you think it is or may need to be opened more and then set the taper longer. I have mine set to 11 seconds.
 
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I messed with the ASE and taper for a good while last night, made marginal improvements but it still dies after a couple of seconds. Realized I still needed to test the IAC function. Tried that for a while and gave up because the car would surge and die below 30%. Also, the quality of the idle deteriorated somehow and was surging a lot. Not sure why, but I still have the original tune file I can load back in.

Woke up at some stupid hour because in my sleep, I realized I had to be in open loop to test that. LOL. I'll keep at this, I refuse to let it get the best of me. Just not sure when Ill have more time to play with it.

Another thing I noticed is the WOT is tuned well if not slightly fat, but the car doesn't seem to be making much more power than before. I think (but can't prove it yet) that the stupid little bitty cone filter on the turbo and, more importantly, the factory stock mufflers are creating so much backpressure that it's making the car asthmatic in the higher rpms. It should be making 400+ to the wheels on 8psi per the datalogs and it wont hardly spin the tires in 3rd gear.

My birthday is next month, so I'm going to ask for a couple new 2.5" magnaflow mufflers and some 2.5" flowtubes ahead of the mufflers. The ones on there look like 2.25". I really think that's going to help a lot.
 
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Got it running pretty good now, even fixed the ASE stuff for the most part, everything just needs time to really dial it in.

I went ahead and opened the exhaust cutout and went on a drive with the autotune on. I suspected that it would want more fuel with the decreased backpressure and I was right, it added fuel all over the place. Ran a lot better too! Time for the bigger spring for sure.

Still planning on redoing the exhaust next month. The power steering has puked fluid all over the underside of the car so it's time to redo that also. Might mix that in with doing the contour fans.
 
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