How hard is it to replace door lock motor?

Quijibow_69 · Apr 10, 2005

My passenger door lock motor just went out, I think. When I press the lock button on either side, it doesn't go down or up for that matter. Is it really difficult to replace the motor for this and also where is a good place to get a replacement?

quiksilver9531 · Apr 10, 2005

50resto.com and no there pretty easy to replace, take the door panel off, peel back that water cover or whatever that is, and there it is

92GreenGT · Apr 10, 2005

Buy a set off Ebay, a lot cheaper and work perfect. Most of them on Ebay will be garunteed to work, thats what I did and they work perfect. The swap is easy, like said above take off the door panel and peel back the splash gaurd...and you will see it. Good luck, if you have the plastic clips holding the actuator in be gentle.

squeeeg · Apr 10, 2005

Very easy to change. hardest part is the door panel if that gives you any idea. I agree go to ebay for the part it is a lot cheaper.

BaXTeR3221 · Apr 11, 2005

if you search for jrichker, he has a really cheap method that works well and just takes a little fabrication. He'll probably chime in here.

HISSIN50 · Apr 11, 2005

I am with Joe - I did Jrichker's retrofit and it works wonderfully. i had most of the supplies on hand - cost me 3.37 for the actuator and 99 cents for some lock nuts.

Ourobos · Apr 11, 2005

You can buy the actuators for like $20 on the internet. Then you drill the stock riveted ones out, and drill two hole in the inner panel for the new ones. They are nice pieces, and work strong. Mine have been going for over two years without a hitch.

jrichker · Apr 11, 2005

Follow this link to fix your door lock actuator problems http://jrichker.stangnet.com/Mustang_tech/door_actuator_fix/1_of_8_door_actuator.htm

Stuck with door lock actuators that don't work and don't want to pay the $50+ for a new one? Tried the junkyard ones and found that they last six months and freeze up?

A new actuator for less than $4. Fix one side for $17, do both sides for only $23. I don't sell parts, I don’t make any money off of the upgrade, I just tell you how to do it cheaply and easily.

MustangLX-5.0 · Apr 11, 2005

Yeah,I just checked out your site jrichker.I like the retrofit.I'd even go ahead with it on my '92 LX as the drivers side actuator buzzes and squeals most of the time.Maybe it goes down after the 6th or 7th button press...........But,it's having to get all the materials and then just getting pieces cut to proper proportions.

I've had the door panels off so many times.No biggie.Just seems like it may be a bit on the time consuming side.

Nice job though.

By the way,are they quieter than a properly functioning stock actuator?

NosPony · Apr 11, 2005

very easy process take off door panel and 3 screws hold it in.

50resto is about the best for pricing

89MustangGX · Apr 11, 2005

NosPony said:
very easy process take off door panel and 3 screws hold it in.

50resto is about the best for pricing

Actually, it's riveted in, only screwed (bolted) if someone has changed them. This would normally present more of a challange, but if you get creative you can twist the old actuator out of the bracket and swap them without unbolting or drilling rivets.

HISSIN50 · Apr 11, 2005

ill share how it was for my plastic brackets (JR's write up has info for metal brackets IIRC):

the plastic is likely to try and break when you try to pop the actuator out of the bracket (there are two rubber bushings on the actuator support arms - the bushings and actuator-arms snap into the plastic bracket).

the plastic bracket is secured to the door with a pin which has a snap-ring clip holding it to the pin (which is what some people drill out for some reason). so to remove the bracket, one can remove the snap ring. but getting access to the snap ring is hard with the actuator in place (catch 22).

willys1 · Apr 11, 2005

Mines plastic too..Not for nothing but thats gotta be a tuff job fitting a drill into the door..Theres not alot of room there!!

89MustangGX · Apr 11, 2005

willys1 said:
Mines plastic too..Not for nothing but thats gotta be a tuff job fitting a drill into the door..Theres not alot of room there!!

You drill from the outside of the door -- in the door jam part.

Fortunately, the first ones I changed were bolted in, which gave me a chance to look them over well. Since then I've done numerous ones (on different cars!) and not lost a single bracket, so this was never necessary.

trbkrb · Apr 12, 2005

I said the heck with installing it in the stock location and I put mine up closer to the lock knob and used all the parts that came with it. The silver screws attach the actuator to the door. The bottom left hole is already there, the top right one I drilled and used the screws included with the kit to attach it to the door:

I also changed the bullet connectors to spade connectors to plug into the Ford wiring harness, and then wrapped it with electrical tape:

These locks have been working great for over 2 years and only cost me about $12 since I ordered a pair with a friend and we split shipping.

Good luck!

jrichker · Apr 13, 2005

MustangLX-5.0 said:
Yeah,I just checked out your site jrichker.I like the retrofit.I'd even go ahead with it on my '92 LX as the drivers side actuator buzzes and squeals most of the time.Maybe it goes down after the 6th or 7th button press...........But,it's having to get all the materials and then just getting pieces cut to proper proportions.

I've had the door panels off so many times.No biggie.Just seems like it may be a bit on the time consuming side.

Nice job though.

By the way,are they quieter than a properly functioning stock actuator?

A pleasant "Thunk", just loud enough that you know that they are working without having to look at the lock button.

How hard is it to replace door lock motor?

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