HOW TO CHANGE SPARK PLUGS????

just tighten them tell you here a snap crackle pop noise.

13 lbs

ppl say finger tighten then 1/8 inch or 1/4 inch turn with the wrench past finger tight. cant remember which tho.

Be very careful as you tighten the spark plugs....I use a socket with an 8 inch extension with a the sewival at the top of the extension and I use a spark plug socket..(not really nessary.) I use a 3/8 inch piece of fuel line to start the plugs in the hole. FINGER TIGHT.

just finger tight with anit-sieze

then grab your torque wrench.

Actual torque range is 7-14 foot pounds or 85-170 inch pounds.

My recommendation is to use an inch pound torque wrench for two reasons..

One my foot/pound torque wrench is like 28 inches long...way too big for spark plugs.

Also 7 foot pounds is at the extreme low range of a normal foot pound torque wrench where its possilble to get erronenous readings.

Go spend the $60 bucks at Sear's for a good little inch pound torque wrench, they are about 16 inches long...much more manageable and accurate for our fragile aluminum trends. I torque to 120 inch pounds..roughly 10 foot pounds, thats in the middle of the range. I would not go any lower than 10 ft/lbs or any higher that 12ft/lbs. Remember 12 ft/lbs is nothing..its a very low torque number...so no Gorilla action here. You probably think they are tight enough..so that will mean they are just right

Be careful.....you can search and find many horror stories or people stripping out their heads. Dont force the plugs..just use the fuel line to start them in the hole and you will just fine. If you feel any resistance stop, and determine the problem. My piece of fuel line is about 12 inches long just right with the plug stuck in it and in the head you have a few inches left to spin the spark plug in.

easy way to do it, once you have the plugs finger tight, grab the wrench by the head and tighten it hard, since you are not using the handle you aren't putting much tourque on the wrench. I change mine once a year, takes about 20min, And never had any trouble.

BTW: USE anti-sieze!!!

I have to do mine soon too.. whats the trick to taking off the fuel rails? I have never touched them before and I am woried about gasoline sprayin everywhere...then the coil packs do they just pop off? I can't find anything on this in chiltons or hayes, it just mentions that it is distributless and 100,000 mile tune-up. I know to NEVER wait till 100,000 miles due to the fack that in the north with the salt on the road, the plugs have a tendancy to weld into the blocks after 80,000 or so miles.

XtorT'r said:

I have to do mine soon too.. whats the trick to taking off the fuel rails? I have never touched them before and I am woried about gasoline sprayin everywhere...then the coil packs do they just pop off? I can't find anything on this in chiltons or hayes, it just mentions that it is distributless and 100,000 mile tune-up. I know to NEVER wait till 100,000 miles due to the fack that in the north with the salt on the road, the plugs have a tendancy to weld into the blocks after 80,000 or so miles.

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no need to take rails off brother. use extensions and you will get in there just fine, after you figure out how to do it once you'll know how to do them in 20 min. there are little screws holding the coil on plugs on.

Read this. All the questions you have and everything you're worried about is covered here.

http://www.bullittarchive.com/Maintenance/Spark_Plugs/