I would like to replace the stock 302 with one that has a bit more hp but not to much as to go into the Tranee or rear end and I am going to keep the stock motor just incase I sell the thing so all the number will match the car and get a new rebuild for it all the sites I have looked at for a motor have stress with the year of cardose any one have any info for a motor
I am new to the site, and I could use some help with my restore it is a1977 cobra II that I dove off the show room floor it has a302 134hp
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Aloha Lee
Welcome to Stangnet.
Maybe get a stock long block replacement from Orileys or Rock auto.
Might even have a warranty.
Or shop the classifieds for a 28 oz imbalance 289-302 motor.
You will have to swap many parts from old motor to new (oil pan, intake, mounts, timing cover, ect.) either way.
Tell us what trans you got and post a pic of your car please.
I’m dreaming this
Welcome to Stangnet.
Maybe get a stock long block replacement from Orileys or Rock auto.
Might even have a warranty.
Or shop the classifieds for a 28 oz imbalance 289-302 motor.
You will have to swap many parts from old motor to new (oil pan, intake, mounts, timing cover, ect.) either way.
Tell us what trans you got and post a pic of your car please.
I’m dreaming this
Welcome to the site!
Honestly, you could install any 302 you want in the car as long as everything that is unique to the II is swapped out as @2Blue2 mentioned. The main thing to be concerned with is the engine's balance. An earlier 28 oz engine will swap in with no real problems, but a later model such as a 5.0 from a Fox Mustang or a late model Explorer will necessitate the proper balancing of the flywheel/flexplate. So, if you're able to have a machine shop rebalance a flywheel/flexplate I'd recommend an engine from one of those 2 examples. The only real exception would be the 5.0 with GT40P heads, you may run into problems with header/exhaust manifold clearance as they changed the angle of the spark plug. But both engines can supply you with 200+ factory horsepower as compared to the 134 horespower 302 in the 78.
Now, as far as the 8 inch in your car, you shouldn't have any problems holding that low of a horsepower/torque number. I'm running a stock gearset from a V6 car in my 8 inch and my car produces 265 wheel horsepower/300 wheel torque. As far as the transmission goes, that all depends on what you have. If it's the stock 4 speed manual, I'm sure I speak for pretty much everyone in the recommendation of an upgrade. The 4 speeds aren't known for reliability behind even a stock 302. But if it's a C4, you'll probably be completely fine.
As always, feel free to ask anything! And good hunting!
Honestly, you could install any 302 you want in the car as long as everything that is unique to the II is swapped out as @2Blue2 mentioned. The main thing to be concerned with is the engine's balance. An earlier 28 oz engine will swap in with no real problems, but a later model such as a 5.0 from a Fox Mustang or a late model Explorer will necessitate the proper balancing of the flywheel/flexplate. So, if you're able to have a machine shop rebalance a flywheel/flexplate I'd recommend an engine from one of those 2 examples. The only real exception would be the 5.0 with GT40P heads, you may run into problems with header/exhaust manifold clearance as they changed the angle of the spark plug. But both engines can supply you with 200+ factory horsepower as compared to the 134 horespower 302 in the 78.
Now, as far as the 8 inch in your car, you shouldn't have any problems holding that low of a horsepower/torque number. I'm running a stock gearset from a V6 car in my 8 inch and my car produces 265 wheel horsepower/300 wheel torque. As far as the transmission goes, that all depends on what you have. If it's the stock 4 speed manual, I'm sure I speak for pretty much everyone in the recommendation of an upgrade. The 4 speeds aren't known for reliability behind even a stock 302. But if it's a C4, you'll probably be completely fine.
As always, feel free to ask anything! And good hunting!
Numbers matching isn't really a thing for our cars. If you are concerned then get your engine rebuilt. This is probably the safest way if you have limited skills.
OTOH the heads used during the 70's are horrible. Flat tappet engines require specific oil. 100k miles on a 70's engine and it will usually be worn out.
Roller engines are newer and last longer. 100k miles on a fuel injected engine is nothing. So if you can I would look for a roller motor. I picked up a used 5.0 for cheap and had a local engine builder balance the factory flexplate to 50oz. Get the correct cam gear and new gaskets then call it a day. This way you can run any modern oil.
If you have a manual trans Modern Driveline has the 50oz flywheel for us. As stated above be learey of putting too much power through the 4 speed. I have one that was already rebuilt twice and now needs third gear and another rebuild. Thats with a stock block and just a 4 bbl intake/carb.
Do Not get rid of old engine before the new one is running. The coupe I have was picked up cheap because they sold the old engine not realizing how rare the oil pan and mounts are. Speaking of which plan on rebuilding the engine mounts. They will most likely be worn out and new ones are very expensive.
OTOH the heads used during the 70's are horrible. Flat tappet engines require specific oil. 100k miles on a 70's engine and it will usually be worn out.
Roller engines are newer and last longer. 100k miles on a fuel injected engine is nothing. So if you can I would look for a roller motor. I picked up a used 5.0 for cheap and had a local engine builder balance the factory flexplate to 50oz. Get the correct cam gear and new gaskets then call it a day. This way you can run any modern oil.
If you have a manual trans Modern Driveline has the 50oz flywheel for us. As stated above be learey of putting too much power through the 4 speed. I have one that was already rebuilt twice and now needs third gear and another rebuild. Thats with a stock block and just a 4 bbl intake/carb.
Do Not get rid of old engine before the new one is running. The coupe I have was picked up cheap because they sold the old engine not realizing how rare the oil pan and mounts are. Speaking of which plan on rebuilding the engine mounts. They will most likely be worn out and new ones are very expensive.
- Mar 7, 2002
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70s Ford 302 heads aren't actually horrible. They're no worse a starting point than the E7 heads from a 5.0 HO. The pistons were the reason for the lackluster performance of the 302s of the era.
As far as a specific oil for flat-tappet engines, it's no biggie, Rotella 15w40 is cheap, contains zinc, and is actually in the specified viscosity range for these engines per the owner's manual. Honestly, once the break-in is done, the engine should be fine with any oil, but I don't take chances either, hence why I use Rotella.
well right now it does not look that good getting ready for paint it has been in the shop for 17 years and we are coming from the ground up pulled the 302 out of it and have decided to rebuild it have pistons for it 9.5 to 1 will be looking for a cam and heads and intake I do not want to go overboard with the HP would like to stay around 250 TO 300 HP does anyone have some info about where to get the heads and intake and what kind cam because this is uncharted water for me if it was and old FE BLOCK I would know being that I have a 390 pumping out 425 hp the only thing it will not pass is a gas station blue printed and balanced 428cj cam 10.5 to1pistons3310 Holley we dialed the cam in one tooth back with a 3dagreeof set key well enff of that but would like some info about the 302
I think a good starting point would be a set of aluminum heads. Any of the big names should work well; Trick Flow, Edelbrock, etc. Another that I'm going to give a shot on my Fox convertible is ProMaxx. I've heard good things from other members here as well as good reviews on the net.
promaxxperformance.com
I don't think any of those heads would have an issue supporting your horsepower goals with a pretty mild cam.
As for an intake, assuming you're staying carbureted, I'd suggest an air gap style dual plane, either Edelbrock or the Pro Comp piece that I have should work well. Pair that with a 600-650 carb and all should be well in the world.
(Of course, I'm a little biased... I'm basically suggesting my engine! 
)
Given all of that, you can check out the specs of my build through the different threads in my signature or clicking the following links, most all of the info for my engine build is in them, although it will take some patience to sort through them.
https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/pro-comp-24026-intake-manifold.883603/
https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-fo...-holley-4150-tuning-exhaust-escapades.915742/
https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/so-i-did-a-thing-today.913231/
The short story: I have a 68 302 block, crank, rods, flat top pistons with 4 valve reliefs, Trick Flow Twisted Wedge heads, Pro Comp air gap style dual plane, 650 Holley double pump, and a Melling RV style cam with 1.7 roller rockers. It produced 265 horsepower and 300 lb/ft torque to the wheels in November 2019 with a VERY rich carburetor.
Another 302 that produces similar numbers in a different set up would be @MustangIIMatt 's car. Maybe he'll chime in and give you a recommendation.
Maxx 180 SBF (Sold in Pairs) - PROMAXX Performance Products
The SBF Maxx 180 is an as cast head that beats the competition. Don’t let the size fool you, flowing over 260 cfm, this head makes real power. It puts out up to 20 hp over the competition.
promaxxperformance.com
I don't think any of those heads would have an issue supporting your horsepower goals with a pretty mild cam.
As for an intake, assuming you're staying carbureted, I'd suggest an air gap style dual plane, either Edelbrock or the Pro Comp piece that I have should work well. Pair that with a 600-650 carb and all should be well in the world.
(Of course, I'm a little biased... I'm basically suggesting my engine! )Given all of that, you can check out the specs of my build through the different threads in my signature or clicking the following links, most all of the info for my engine build is in them, although it will take some patience to sort through them.
https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/pro-comp-24026-intake-manifold.883603/
https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-fo...-holley-4150-tuning-exhaust-escapades.915742/
https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/so-i-did-a-thing-today.913231/
The short story: I have a 68 302 block, crank, rods, flat top pistons with 4 valve reliefs, Trick Flow Twisted Wedge heads, Pro Comp air gap style dual plane, 650 Holley double pump, and a Melling RV style cam with 1.7 roller rockers. It produced 265 horsepower and 300 lb/ft torque to the wheels in November 2019 with a VERY rich carburetor.
Another 302 that produces similar numbers in a different set up would be @MustangIIMatt 's car. Maybe he'll chime in and give you a recommendation.
- Mar 7, 2002
- 9,432
- 5,380
- 224
Our engines are fairly similar. I run a more aggressive cam, worked-over D5AE heads, and a port-matched Edelbrock Performer RPM intake. The end result is our engines produce almost identical power and torque.
If I had to duplicate our power level today, a set of aluminum heads would be involved, it's cheaper than finding a good machine shop to put hours into a set of heads to make them something they weren't, saves weight, and let's the engine run a little cooler.
I had my engine rebuilt 2 years ago. I originally purchased it back in 1987 from Ford as a crate engine. This block has powered 4 vehicles for me over the years and I wanted to keep it for nostalgia.
I initially was just going to swap heads and cam but found the cam bearings scorched during disassembly. I had to change plans and switch to having it rebuilt. I used edelbrock aluminum heads that were picked up on clearance from summit. New flat top pistons for valve clearance, 10.5/1 c/r, comp cams xe268, knock off air gap intake and 600cfm eddy carb. During rebuild we found Ford had bored it to .40 over which we kept as the cylinder walls were still in good shape.
Doing it over I would pick a less radical cam and use a roller engine for the base. I would go with forged pistons vs hyperutectic. More so I could add boost or nos down the road. In reality that will most likely never happen. Having the option too would be nice.
I have no idea what it actually puts out but my engine builder claimed it should be 350ish. I imagine with a professional tune it may be 350 at the crank but I doubt that. Especially with an old eddy 600 currently on it.
I bought all my name brand engine goodies from summit planning on just swapping them out here at home but then it had to go to my engine builder. All he had to provide was bearings, pistons and labor. He said I paid too much. He appreciated the quality of the parts I purchased but claimed he can get damn near the same performance from a set of cheap aluminum heads and a melling or erson cam for about half what name brand parts cost. So talk with your engine builder prior to purchasing items.
I know some like fords ignition but I would consider changing to a hei setup. My butt thinks the power and responsiveness at higher rpms improved when I changed to hei. Consider changing to a 1 wire alternator. They bolt right up and need minor wiring changes and a slightly shorter belt. They are more efficient threfore rob slightly less power from engine. Get good fel pro gaskets. I really like the one piece oil pan gasket. I did have to use some gasket sealer where the pan meets the crank but it was so much easier dealing with 1 piece vs 4. Their modern valve cover gaskets are much better and reusable.
With our cars being so heavy up front I would try to get everything you can in aluminum. My car by napkin math is about 125 to 150lbs lighter on the front axle. Not a bad deal considering I went from a v6 auto to a v8 t5. The battery was relocated on mine which helps as well.
If it has been sitting that long pull your brake booster and have it rebuilt. At the minimun check it. Napa can send it to dorman or you can go to dormans website and get instructions. I have resurrected 4 II's over the past several years and all had a bad booster. 2 years ago I bought a couple from dorman via ebay. They were readily available then but last year when I checked the only option was rebuild them.
I initially was just going to swap heads and cam but found the cam bearings scorched during disassembly. I had to change plans and switch to having it rebuilt. I used edelbrock aluminum heads that were picked up on clearance from summit. New flat top pistons for valve clearance, 10.5/1 c/r, comp cams xe268, knock off air gap intake and 600cfm eddy carb. During rebuild we found Ford had bored it to .40 over which we kept as the cylinder walls were still in good shape.
Doing it over I would pick a less radical cam and use a roller engine for the base. I would go with forged pistons vs hyperutectic. More so I could add boost or nos down the road. In reality that will most likely never happen. Having the option too would be nice.
I have no idea what it actually puts out but my engine builder claimed it should be 350ish. I imagine with a professional tune it may be 350 at the crank but I doubt that. Especially with an old eddy 600 currently on it.
I bought all my name brand engine goodies from summit planning on just swapping them out here at home but then it had to go to my engine builder. All he had to provide was bearings, pistons and labor. He said I paid too much. He appreciated the quality of the parts I purchased but claimed he can get damn near the same performance from a set of cheap aluminum heads and a melling or erson cam for about half what name brand parts cost. So talk with your engine builder prior to purchasing items.
I know some like fords ignition but I would consider changing to a hei setup. My butt thinks the power and responsiveness at higher rpms improved when I changed to hei. Consider changing to a 1 wire alternator. They bolt right up and need minor wiring changes and a slightly shorter belt. They are more efficient threfore rob slightly less power from engine. Get good fel pro gaskets. I really like the one piece oil pan gasket. I did have to use some gasket sealer where the pan meets the crank but it was so much easier dealing with 1 piece vs 4. Their modern valve cover gaskets are much better and reusable.
With our cars being so heavy up front I would try to get everything you can in aluminum. My car by napkin math is about 125 to 150lbs lighter on the front axle. Not a bad deal considering I went from a v6 auto to a v8 t5. The battery was relocated on mine which helps as well.
If it has been sitting that long pull your brake booster and have it rebuilt. At the minimun check it. Napa can send it to dorman or you can go to dormans website and get instructions. I have resurrected 4 II's over the past several years and all had a bad booster. 2 years ago I bought a couple from dorman via ebay. They were readily available then but last year when I checked the only option was rebuild them.
One other thing. Using an air gap intake will limit your air cleaner options. I had to cut a hole in my hood and am using that cheap triangle foam air cleaner and it still rubs the bottom of my factory scoop. I do have a 1/2 inch phenolitic spacer but cannot delete it as she is hard to start after a hot soak without it.
manicmechanic007
5 Year Member
Here is a fellow Ford tech and friends '78 Cobra
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manicmechanic007
5 Year Member
manicmechanic007
5 Year Member
Lee, I don't know if it would work but I can probably get you in touch with the owner of that red 78
Like you, luckily
He got that new in 78 as a gift from his dad who owned a dealer somewhere in So Cal
I know his is at least real but way beyond stock
He knows everything there is to know about those 2's
Like you, luckily
He got that new in 78 as a gift from his dad who owned a dealer somewhere in So Cal
I know his is at least real but way beyond stock
He knows everything there is to know about those 2's
Most of us who are loyal know quite a bit about the II.
Is he a member of the site? We could use more traffic and a wider knowledge base.
manicmechanic007
5 Year Member
My sentiment exactly on the Forged Pistons and HEI
Currently have a blue Duraspark in mine.
I will play with a new HEI when I get it back out
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