I NEED HELP, CHARGING PROBLEM

Does it not turn over or not catch?

If you don't have a DMM, have the alternator either dynamically or bench tested. If the bench test passes, test the regulator and the rectifier plug for proper values.

Alternator troubleshooting for 86-95 5.0 Mustangs:

Do all of these tests in sequence. Do not skip around. The results of each test depend on the results of the previous
tests for correct interpretation.
Changes in wiring for a 3G alternator are in red

Engine off, ignition off, battery fully charged.
1.) Look for 12 volts at the alternator output. No 12 volts and the dark green fuse link between the orange/black
wires and the battery side of the starter solenoid has open circuited.
3G alternator: Look for 12 volts at the stud on the back of the alternator where the 4 gauge power feed wire is bolted.
No voltage and the fuse for the 4 gauge power feed wire is open or there are some loose connections.
2.) Look for 12 volts on the yellow/white wire that is the power feed to the regulator. No 12 volts, and the fuse link
for the yellow/white wire has open circuited.

Engine not running, ignition on, battery fully charged.
1.) Alternator warning light should glow. No glow, bulb has burned out or there is a break in the wiring between the
regulator plug and the dash. The warning light supplies an exciter voltage that tells the regulator to
turn on. There is a 500 ohm resistor in parallel with the warning light so that if the bulb burns out, the regulator still gets
the exciter voltage.
Disconnect the D connector with the 3 wires (yellow/white, white/black and green/red) from the voltage regulator.
Measure the voltage on the lt green/red wire. It should be 12 volts. No 12 volts and the wire is broken, or the 500 ohm
resistor and dash indicator lamp are bad. If the 12 volts is missing, replace the warning lamp. If after replacing the warning lamp,
the test fails again, the wiring between the warning lamp and the alternator is faulty. The warning lamp circuit is part of
the instrument panel and contains some connectors that may cause problems.

2.) Reconnect the D plug to the alternator
Probe the green/red wire from the rear of the connector and use the battery negative post as a ground. You should see
2.4-2.6 volts. No voltage and the previous tests passed, you have a failed regulator. This is an actual measurement taken
from a car with a working electrical system.

Engine running, Ignition on, battery fully charged:
Probe the green/red wire from the rear of the connector and use the battery negative post as a ground. You should see
battery voltage minus .25 to 1.0 volt. If the battery voltage measured across the battery is 15.25 volts, you should see 14.50 volts

Diagram courtesy of Tmoss & Stang&2birds


See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds (website host) for help on 88-95 wiring Mustang FAQ - Engine Information Everyone should bookmark this site.

Ignition switch wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/IgnitionSwitchWiring.gif

Fuel, alternator, A/C and ignition wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif

Complete computer, actuator & sensor wiring diagram for 88-91 Mass Air Mustangs
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91_5.0_EEC_Wiring_Diagram.gif

Vacuum diagram 89-93 Mustangs
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/mustangFoxFordVacuumDiagram.jpg

HVAC vacuum diagram
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/Mustang_AC_heat_vacuum_controls.gif

TFI module differences & pinout
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/TFI_5.0_comparison.gif

Fuse box layout
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/MustangFuseBox.gif

That's likely to be your problem. When the Charge indicator circuit is not connected the alternator will not charge the battery.

You don't have to take the dash out to work on the instrument cluster connections.

Somewhere on the forum there is a detailed write-up for the instrument cluster.

You really only need to remove a couple of switch assemblies, the cluster bezel, and maybe some trim pieces to gain access to the instrument cluster. In a nutshell:

Removal

1. Disconnect battery ground cable.

2. Remove switch assembly on RH and LH sides of cluster assembly.

3. Remove two upper and three lower retaining screws from the instrument cluster trim cover. Remove the trim cover.

4. Remove four retaining screws from instrument cluster to panel.

5. Pull the cluster away from the instrument panel. Disconnect the speedometer cable by pressing on the flat surface of the plastic connector (quick connect), located behind the instrument cluster.

6. Pull the cluster further away from the instrument panel. Disconnect the two cluster printed circuit connectors from their receptacles in the cluster backplate.

7. Remove cluster.

CAUTION:
If gauges are being removed from the cluster assembly, do not remove the gauge pointer; magnetic gauges cannot be recalibrated.