injectors dirty?

Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…Codes may be present in the computer even if the Check Engine light isn’t on.

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.

See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html








IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Wal-Mart.

Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/pc-7208-90-equus-digital-ford-code-reader-3145.aspx – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $30.

Cylinder balance test:
Warm the car's engine up to normal operating temperature. Use a
jumper wire or paper clip to put the computer into test mode. Start
the engine and let it go through the normal diagnostic tests, then
quickly press the throttle to the floor. The engine RPM should exceed
2500 RPM's for a brief second. The engine RPM's will increase to about
1450-1600 RPM and hold steady. The engine will shut off power to each
injector, one at a time. When it has sequenced through all 8 injectors,
it will flash 9 for everything OK, or the number of the failing cylinder
such as 2 for cylinder #2. Quickly pressing the throttle again up to
2500 RPM’s will cause the test to re-run with smaller qualifying figures.
Do it a third time, and if the same cylinder shows up, the cylinder is
weak and isn’t putting out power like it should. See the Chilton’s Shop
manual for the complete test procedure

sounds like either a map sensor problem or a maf problem to me. but pull the codes and see what they say

ryan218 said:

how?

Click to expand...

It's always helpful to read each post. See #2 above.

Good luck.

check the tps, check the fuel filter, look at the air filter and clean it out if needed, pull codes, check for a vacuum leak, what does it idle at? a non charging alt will make it hesitate a little, Ive been through like 12 of em on all the stangs and one clue they are bad is no performance, hesitation, lean condition ect. Thats what i go through when the things aint runnin right, it might need a tune, edit: get a tune up.

ryan218 said:

wonder if maybe its the coil? maybe the coil is just cutting in and out...

Click to expand...

i'm wondering if maybe you should be in school about this time? 10:56am??

you should PULL THE CODES. there are probably codes being thrown even if you dont have a check engine light on. Just pull the codes before you BUY more stuff that might not fix your problem.

read jrichker's post!

and what do you mean autozone doesnt have mustang air filters anymore????? what air filter are you looking for? i run the STP one in my stock airbox for $5.
http://autozone.com/selectedZip,432...initialNtt,/initialNo,/shopping/selectZip.htm

again as I said, check the intake tract,, make sure there isnt a rat or something in there, Iy shouldnt be idling at 1k should be at bout 800 steady idle, no hesitation at part throttle or wot, which you have. go get an msd coil at autozone its 49 bux and has lots more energy than the original, as said before PULL THE CODES!!! and rip the alt off have it tested while your buying teh coil, then buy a nice new one with a lifetime warranty, believe me youll go through a couple of these, its nice not having to pay for all of them.