Finally got down to Texas to work on the 92 GT I bought last summer. I have to get it ready to drive 3000 miles back to Alaska.
The problem existed before the "tune-up" but is still there. What we've done:
Replaced whatever was on it with FRPP when possible:
Plugs (old ones looked clean and normal for usuage)
Wires 9mm FRPP
Old MSD Cap/ Rotor to Ford
TPS (had a wire protruding from the housing)
Temp sensor behind Thermostat (one with plastic connector, did not replace the one with the single post)
Thermostat
Replaced "Auto-parts brand 1 row" with a Fully alluminum 2row
Some vacuum hard lines were broken, replaces and re-plumbed as they were (some might be incorrectly routed)
Issue: After replacing the ignition items above we reset the timing to 10BTDC as per my Chilton Manual. Car starts better than it did. Idle does better though still not the prescribed 950rpm. Car will absolutely destroy a good set of tires at this point. No miss, no hesitation no lugging down. It will run fine until I sit at a stop sign/light for excess of a minute. Then the car will drop down to barely 600rpm, idle erratically, and have a tiny bit of hesitation on the go. I need to keep it in 4th gear to maintain 55 without causing the engine to lug and jerk. There are no audible chokes in the intake or backfires through the exhaust.
It will continue to run this way until I stop the car, turn the engine off and restart. At this point I am back where I want the car to be, idles nice and even, terrific acceleration, and no missing, hesitation or difficulty maintaining normal speeds in the prescribed gear.
Also of note, this does not happen until the engine reaches normal opperating temp. (it can idle for 5 minutes and drive away normal as long as the engine is still cool.
Things we have tried to resolve the issue:
Under the intake "wing" there were 2 nipples. The right has a hose that runs to the rear of the lower intake to the PCV. The left was capped off. We found that the vaccuum line from the Charcoal canister (through its check CANP) was not connected. I looked online for vacuum diagrams and it looked like the line was supposed to run to the left nipple on the upper intake next to the PCV line. Is that correct?
All visible vacuum lines are in good shape or have been replaced as neccesary. I have looked at the vacuum diagrams found on here, but while they show what goes to what in a simple 2d image, actually locating it on the engine was a different ball of wax.The 5x5 vacuum line connector is a pain to descern what is what, I have contemplated swapping it out with just single connectors.
Driving the car about 15 miles from my brothers house actually caused a CEL, (and the aformention erratic running but this was the first time it has ever actually thrown a CEL), again shutting the car off completely (key off) fixed all problems and it drove the remainder of the 5 miles home, trouble free.
Things we plan tomorrow:
MSD Coil replacement (since i see folks have issues with it.
Vacuum pressure check
Codes that my handy dandy ford OBD-I gets for KOE-Off 34,41,91 and KOE-On 12,21.41,91,34
It has a offroad h-pipe (with o2 sensors installed) so the 41,91 o2 sensor codes should be expected?
The problem existed before the "tune-up" but is still there. What we've done:
Replaced whatever was on it with FRPP when possible:
Plugs (old ones looked clean and normal for usuage)
Wires 9mm FRPP
Old MSD Cap/ Rotor to Ford
TPS (had a wire protruding from the housing)
Temp sensor behind Thermostat (one with plastic connector, did not replace the one with the single post)
Thermostat
Replaced "Auto-parts brand 1 row" with a Fully alluminum 2row
Some vacuum hard lines were broken, replaces and re-plumbed as they were (some might be incorrectly routed)
Issue: After replacing the ignition items above we reset the timing to 10BTDC as per my Chilton Manual. Car starts better than it did. Idle does better though still not the prescribed 950rpm. Car will absolutely destroy a good set of tires at this point. No miss, no hesitation no lugging down. It will run fine until I sit at a stop sign/light for excess of a minute. Then the car will drop down to barely 600rpm, idle erratically, and have a tiny bit of hesitation on the go. I need to keep it in 4th gear to maintain 55 without causing the engine to lug and jerk. There are no audible chokes in the intake or backfires through the exhaust.
It will continue to run this way until I stop the car, turn the engine off and restart. At this point I am back where I want the car to be, idles nice and even, terrific acceleration, and no missing, hesitation or difficulty maintaining normal speeds in the prescribed gear.
Also of note, this does not happen until the engine reaches normal opperating temp. (it can idle for 5 minutes and drive away normal as long as the engine is still cool.
Things we have tried to resolve the issue:
Under the intake "wing" there were 2 nipples. The right has a hose that runs to the rear of the lower intake to the PCV. The left was capped off. We found that the vaccuum line from the Charcoal canister (through its check CANP) was not connected. I looked online for vacuum diagrams and it looked like the line was supposed to run to the left nipple on the upper intake next to the PCV line. Is that correct?
All visible vacuum lines are in good shape or have been replaced as neccesary. I have looked at the vacuum diagrams found on here, but while they show what goes to what in a simple 2d image, actually locating it on the engine was a different ball of wax.The 5x5 vacuum line connector is a pain to descern what is what, I have contemplated swapping it out with just single connectors.
Driving the car about 15 miles from my brothers house actually caused a CEL, (and the aformention erratic running but this was the first time it has ever actually thrown a CEL), again shutting the car off completely (key off) fixed all problems and it drove the remainder of the 5 miles home, trouble free.
Things we plan tomorrow:
MSD Coil replacement (since i see folks have issues with it.
Vacuum pressure check
Codes that my handy dandy ford OBD-I gets for KOE-Off 34,41,91 and KOE-On 12,21.41,91,34
It has a offroad h-pipe (with o2 sensors installed) so the 41,91 o2 sensor codes should be expected?