Progress Thread It's Happening...

CarMichael Angelo

clearly, I’ve got something going on in that hole
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If there's a Falcon, the $400 K member converts the front end to Fox. The fabricated shock towers are pricey, but would be pretty easy to fab. ESPECIALLY now that we have an Amada 3kw ENSIS laser, a turret punch, and a couple of press brakes at work. And oodles and oodles of 11, 14, & 16 gauge sheet metal we run and tons of drops we scrap.

Even if I didn't do the Fox K member conversion, I notched the shock towers on a Maverick when I was 17 or 18. It's not rocket surgery. Especially nowadays if you finagle a coil over spring in there, could probably cut it 2" deeper than I did then.

If I go with an actual Fox, it would probably get a tubular front end, so the frame rails in front of the strut towers don't matter. The roll cage will tie into the strut towers to stiffen it up.




Is that full exploder front dress....accessories are wider than the engine. Looks like a MII conversion. That's pretty cheap too, but for drag racing, I don't think enough suspension travel.

You do realize Ford put Windsors in them from the factory? You don't have to cut the shock towers to put a Windsor in it.
I know there was a 260, maybe a 289 in the car ( it is a 65 mustang after all) this guy has stock manifolds on a 5.0. I think he’s modified the front frame rails...look at his exhaust clearance.

Wait...let me re-phrase...

Look at his LACK of exhaust clearance.
 
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droopie85gt

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I don't have to look at his post. He has cut the front suspension points off the frame rails. He has cut off the shock towers. He has put in a Mustang II kit (less than $1200 from some where like Speedway). He needs to get some H E A D E R S that fit a F A L C O N, not manifolds that came out of a truck. You do you. I'll do my thing. Maybe it's a Falcon, maybe it's not. For some reason it's bugging the :poo: out of you.
 

CarMichael Angelo

clearly, I’ve got something going on in that hole
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I don't have to look at his post. He has cut the front suspension points off the frame rails. He has cut off the shock towers. He has put in a Mustang II kit (less than $1200 from some where like Speedway). He needs to get some H E A D E R S that fit a F A L C O N, not manifolds that came out of a truck. You do you. I'll do my thing. Maybe it's a Falcon, maybe it's not. For some reason it's bugging the :poo: out of you.
it’s not bugging me, this is my normal.
Ive already issued my “ it’s your car” disclaimer,..it’s just hard for me to sit idly by while someone decides to step off a cliff.

i’ll shut up now. Build your car. ;)
 

90sickfox

I didn't really have an issue with the stink...
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You should put it in a clapped out bmw chassis. They are also cheap and lots of aftermarket support.

This will really make Mike boil over...He's a BMW salesmen after all.

Screenshot_20200925-151450_Facebook.jpg


Screenshot_20200925-151351_Facebook.jpg


To be honest...I'm liking the Falcon idea.
 

MustangIIMatt

I need something stupid to play with
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You should put it in a clapped out bmw chassis. They are also cheap and lots of aftermarket support.

This will really make Mike boil over...He's a BMW salesmen after all.

Screenshot_20200925-151450_Facebook.jpg


Screenshot_20200925-151351_Facebook.jpg


To be honest...I'm liking the Falcon idea.
He can hardly make a BMW worse by putting a non-BMW powerplant in it. It'll at least be better for the environment since it won't leak nearly as much oil.
 

CarMichael Angelo

clearly, I’ve got something going on in that hole
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You should put it in a clapped out bmw chassis. They are also cheap and lots of aftermarket support.

This will really make Mike boil over...He's a BMW salesmen after all.

Screenshot_20200925-151450_Facebook.jpg


Screenshot_20200925-151351_Facebook.jpg


To be honest...I'm liking the Falcon idea.
You aren't causing me any grief. Once a BMW gets old, the only thing TO DO, is to replace the running gear.
 
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droopie85gt

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There was a 3 series roller with a cage in came up on FB last week. I thought about posting it, but figured the Falcon was already driving Mike over the edge enough to drink out of a metal can.


You aren't causing me any grief. Once a BMW gets OUT OF WARRANTY, the only thing TO DO, is to replace the running gear.

There fixed it.
 

droopie85gt

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I wonder if I can get Sears or Ace or some who carries Craftsman tools to replace a bazillion year old 1/2" drive torque wrench because it's inaccurate?

I've noticed that the 2.3 rods spec 50 ft lbs and when I got them they were MUCH tighter than this torque wrench gets them at 50. So I bought a rod stretch gauge. Calls for .005-007" bolt stretch. Going up to 75ft lbs on this wrench gets me .004" stretch, but it feels about as tight as they were when I got the rods from Crower. Guess I need to see if anyone I know has a torque wrench I can borrow.
 

02 281 GT

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Might be able to find a local business that can calibrate the wrench for you? Torque measuring devices should be calibrated every year or two to maintain accuracy.
 

droopie85gt

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It could just be my own dumb assedry. I was in such a hurry to put the pistons on and find out the bearing clearance....I forgot to put the ARP lube on the bolts. I'm not sure how much friction there is, but Saturday I'll find out when I put correct ARP lube on and try again. Er, maybe Sunday since Sat is my wife's birthday and our anniversary.
 

CarMichael Angelo

clearly, I’ve got something going on in that hole
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I’ve used the same JC Penney 3/8” drive wrench since given to me by my dad on my 18th birthday. Because it is a mega high dollar tool ( as you might expect from a mega high quality name brand like JC penny) I’ve never questioned its accuracy. Commensurately nothing has either came loose, or broke as a result.
MOF, the current engine was assembled using its mega precise torque measuring capabilities.
 

droopie85gt

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I’ve used the same JC Penney 3/8” drive wrench since given to me by my dad on my 18th birthday. Because it is a mega high dollar tool ( as you might expect from a mega high quality name brand like JC penny) I’ve never questioned its accuracy. Commensurately nothing has either came loose, or broke as a result.
MOF, the current engine was assembled using its mega precise torque measuring capabilities.

I'm not sure how old this craftsman is. I was looking to replace it and got an email from the Harbor of Freight. Pittsburgh click torque wrench, any size, $11.99. I know that's a sale price, but I would believe it to be more accurate if it were MORE expensive! :cheers:

I'll try the moly lube and stretch gauge again. If it's not accurate, I may try a 12 dolla bill on a new torque wrench. Depending on that...I may have to re-torque the mains.
 

Monkeybutt2000

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I'm not sure how old this craftsman is. I was looking to replace it and got an email from the Harbor of Freight. Pittsburgh click torque wrench, any size, $11.99. I know that's a sale price, but I would believe it to be more accurate if it were MORE expensive! :cheers:

I'll try the moly lube and stretch gauge again. If it's not accurate, I may try a 12 dolla bill on a new torque wrench. Depending on that...I may have to re-torque the mains.
I just did the heads on my engine. I have a Harbor Freight special as well. Wanting to ensure it's accuracy,I borrowed my buddies high dollar Armstrong. Torqued the heads with the Armstrong ,then checked a few with my HF special. Guess what.......same.
 

MustangIIMatt

I need something stupid to play with
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I just did the heads on my engine. I have a Harbor Freight special as well. Wanting to ensure it's accuracy,I borrowed my buddies high dollar Armstrong. Torqued the heads with the Armstrong ,then checked a few with my HF special. Guess what.......same.

That's somewhat reassuring! I may got grab a 3/8 and 1/2 and do some comparo's vs. the stretch.
I can attest that the Harbor Freight torque wrench loses accuracy over time.
 

7991LXnSHO

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I figured at least checking the calibration of a torque wrench would be easy. A milk jug or reused antifreeze bottle with shot and a postal scale might be an easy way to set your testing weight.
 

MustangIIMatt

I need something stupid to play with
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The first thing I was told about the 'clicker' torque wrench was to 'unload' it when not in use, turn the dial back to 0
If the wrench doesn't go to zero, turn it to its lowest setting.

I don't use clickers anymore. I have a SnapOn 1/2 drive split beam for high torque jobs, a Matco 3/8 digital for most jobs (and it gets used almost daily), and a Performance Tool 1/4 drive beam style for delicate work measured in 9nm or less (like BMW fuel injectors).

Click-type torque wrenches just lose calibration too easily.
 
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