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Just looking for a tip

  • Thread starter Thread starter DMAN302
  • Start date Start date May 10, 2004

DMAN302

My mom says thanks for the pearl necklace.
Nov 8, 2003
2,120
2
59
windsor, Canada
May 10, 2004
#1
  • May 10, 2004
  • #1
Installing new upper and lower intake thursday..just wondering if I can install it with injectors in (rail is pushed and tied to shock tower) or should I install injectors after lower is bolted in? also can I put in my Tstat before and torque waterneck down or should I do that after bolted down..really trying to make it as easy as possible on myself here any help appreciated.
 
9

92BlackGT

Member
Aug 4, 2003
182
7
17
Tinker AFB, OK
May 10, 2004
#2
  • May 10, 2004
  • #2
don't see why you couldn't put the t-stat and water neck on.....i didn't have to switch t-stat's when i did mine, took the cobra intake of my bro's 89 before he sold the car. i switched the injectors because i bought new ones a few months earlier so i switched those onto the cobra while it was sitting on the bench and bolted down the fuel rails....easier.
 

jrichker

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Mar 10, 2000
27,512
2,811
234
Dublin GA
May 11, 2004
#3
  • May 11, 2004
  • #3
Fuel injector seal kits with 2 O rings and a pintle cap (Borg-Warner P/N 274081) are available at Pep Boys auto parts. Cost is about $2.74 per kit. The pintle caps fit either injectors with a pin sticking out the injector end or 4 with more tiny holes in the injector end. The following are listed at the Borg-Warner site ( http://www.borg-warner.com ) as being resellers of Borg-Warner parts:

http://www.partsplus.com/ or http://www.autovalue.com/ or http://www.pepboys.com/ or http://www.federatedautoparts.com/

Most of the links above have store locators for find a store in your area.

Use motor oil to coat the injector seals prior to pushing the injectors in place.

My favorite trick that saves time and effort is the stay in place gasket. Be sure that you scrape (don't use a wire brush) all the old gasket material off, then clean all the surfaces with acetone or MEK.

When the surfaces are clean, use weather strip adhesive on the head to manifold surface, and on the side of the gasket that mates to the head. Follow the instructions on the tube or can and when it gets tacky, press the gasket down on the head.

Clean the area where the rubber rails mount to the block in front and in the rear with more acetone or MEK and do the same trick with the weather strip adhesive that you did to the heads.

Coat the rubber seals and the gasket area around the water passages with lots of Blue Silicone gasket sealer and put it together. Wala! no leaks, and no gaskets that shifted out of place.
 
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