You might be right, especially on 87 up.Mine was a mix of body color and that ford undercoat grey. The body color paint came off the k-member very easily with some degreaser, so I wouldnty be surprised if a lot of members are gray.
The heat surely helped but they were really on there.... There is some sort of blue colored thread locker on the bolts... Probably the same stuff on the driveline bolts....I was able to do mine with a breaker bar.
Heat plus penetrating fluid will help too. Don’t use heat if you are intending on reusing the arms with the bushings as-is. If they are getting replaced, heat the nuts up and breaker bar those suckers off
Anyone use any threadlocker when installing these?
OEM rubber bushings, you want the weight on the suspension. Poly bushings can be tightened in the air.My understanding when you tighten up these suspension pieces is you need to have them setting on the ground, with full weight and what will be the normal driving position.. How would that be done with Threadlocker?
Here is a shot of the k member after a couple of pressure washer going overs... HOpefully you can see the paint color... I kinda like the gray.. Will paint the A arms black... You can see one of the spots of superficial rust which was the main reason to remove the K member, making the job much easier..
There are some surface rust areas in the engine compartment that I want to wire wheel and paint, mainly around the radiator area that I can now stand in the engine compartment and address easier too.....
I will check on the date code... I know my sister ( original owner) was hit a couple of times by DWO's in San Fran with it... Lets see if its original.....That's exactly how my K-member looked when it came out. That's the Ford E-coat that the entire chassis is dipped in before paint. There was body color on it, but not much.
Not that it matters but usually there is a date stamped on the K-member on the bottom. Mine was dead center where those 5 holes are, but some have seen them out near the A-arm mounts.