91AOD5.0LX
I have a slight sag in my rear
Congratulations on the great work you did! Very inspiring for some of us!
Progress Thread Komo's 1990 GT
- Thread starter gkomo
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Car sat overnight and zero leaks. It used to have some drips of oil under the oil pan after just idling in the garage when it was up on ramps. I still suspect the valve cover gaskets leaking when the car is up at an angle. Still planning on changing them but it’s a good sign no leaks when sitting level.
Got the wideband wiring ran down through the transmission/shifter opening. For now I’ll secure the wiring and sensor under the car until I get the xpipe dropped and bung welded on:
Thanks! I know there’s members here who do way more involved stuff, in less time, but I do have a sense of accomplishment for myself. Can’t wait to get her out on the road more.
There's also a bunch of members who have done less, gotten frustrated, and quit for a long time. Don't compare your work or how fast you get it done to anyone else, just enjoy what you are doing and enjoy the car. You should feel a sense of accomplishment, that wasn't a small job.
Trying to plan out what i have remaining to do:
- replace door hinge pins (mainly drivers side)
- motor mount replacements
- power steering high/low pressure hose replacements (entire power steering pump? need to decide)
- replace ball joints (steeda x2's?)
- replace passenger side inner tie rod
- get alignment
- get wideband sensor bung welded in xpipe (wiring is all ran and secured, just waiting for the sensor), need to mark where the sensor will go
- replace valve cover gaskets, in which that job will entail also cleaning the EGR spacer, new TB & EGR gaskets/studs, and replacing the SMOG crossover pipe behind the heads. At this time i kind of want to paint the upper intake manifold and valve covers Argent Silver (or similar) and maybe get the injectors cleaned and flow tested
- I ordered ONE MORE serpentine belt, 90" length (currently have a 90.31" belt) and see if that helps with the belt squeal. I've shimmed both the tensioner and alternator, and the laser tells me they are now aligned correctly
Things that are not necessary but still want to do:
- install MM panhard bar
- fix whatever is going on with the stereo (only rear speakers work, wiring looks to be a mess going to the amp under the passenger seat)
- paint the hood (add hood vents?)
- add oil pressure and coolant temperature gauges? Thinking of a dual gauge pod under the radio for 2 5/16" autometer gauges
- general degreasing/cleaning of the engine block... its pretty nasty. Was thinking of buying a gallon of simplegreen and using my pump sprayer with hot water mix and just going to town
- replace door hinge pins (mainly drivers side)
- motor mount replacements
- power steering high/low pressure hose replacements (entire power steering pump? need to decide)
- replace ball joints (steeda x2's?)
- replace passenger side inner tie rod
- get alignment
- get wideband sensor bung welded in xpipe (wiring is all ran and secured, just waiting for the sensor), need to mark where the sensor will go
- replace valve cover gaskets, in which that job will entail also cleaning the EGR spacer, new TB & EGR gaskets/studs, and replacing the SMOG crossover pipe behind the heads. At this time i kind of want to paint the upper intake manifold and valve covers Argent Silver (or similar) and maybe get the injectors cleaned and flow tested
- I ordered ONE MORE serpentine belt, 90" length (currently have a 90.31" belt) and see if that helps with the belt squeal. I've shimmed both the tensioner and alternator, and the laser tells me they are now aligned correctly
Things that are not necessary but still want to do:
- install MM panhard bar
- fix whatever is going on with the stereo (only rear speakers work, wiring looks to be a mess going to the amp under the passenger seat)
- paint the hood (add hood vents?)
- add oil pressure and coolant temperature gauges? Thinking of a dual gauge pod under the radio for 2 5/16" autometer gauges
- general degreasing/cleaning of the engine block... its pretty nasty. Was thinking of buying a gallon of simplegreen and using my pump sprayer with hot water mix and just going to town
Got my plates in:
San Diegans will know what it means. PB = Pacific Beach.
San Diegans will know what it means. PB = Pacific Beach.
Got my plates in:
San Diegans will know what it means. PB = Pacific Beach.
They're all way too high to notice that and if they do, they won't be able to work it out.
"WTF is a Fox?"
belch
Seems like a straight forward process from the YouTube videos i've watched, but any tips/tricks on replacing the valve cover gaskets?
I have the following so far to do the job:
- LMR Valve cover gaskets
- Felpro Upper intake gasket
- TrickFlow TB/EGR gaskets and studs
- Some paint/clear to paint the intake, TB/EGR and valve covers
I'll look at all the vacuum lines while i have the upper off. Anything else i should be on the lookout for or general tips with removal/reinstallation? I have a replacement ACT sensor that i may put on with the upper off.
Oh, and since the upper will be off, i figured it would be a good time to remove, clean and flow test my 19lb injectors. Anything special to note with removing/installing injectors? Once reinstalled, can i prime the fuel system with the entire upper intake and intake track off the car? Just to look for leaks, or is that a bad idea?
I have the following so far to do the job:
- LMR Valve cover gaskets
- Felpro Upper intake gasket
- TrickFlow TB/EGR gaskets and studs
- Some paint/clear to paint the intake, TB/EGR and valve covers
I'll look at all the vacuum lines while i have the upper off. Anything else i should be on the lookout for or general tips with removal/reinstallation? I have a replacement ACT sensor that i may put on with the upper off.
Oh, and since the upper will be off, i figured it would be a good time to remove, clean and flow test my 19lb injectors. Anything special to note with removing/installing injectors? Once reinstalled, can i prime the fuel system with the entire upper intake and intake track off the car? Just to look for leaks, or is that a bad idea?
Opinions, steeda x2’s or FRPP M-3050-S for ball joints? Or are they the same thing?
Will they press in? I’ve heard some people saying they are ‘too small’ and just fall out of the hole?
Edit: been researching more and now I’m all confused. I can also use a fox ball joint with a spacer, but is that bad for the suspension geometry? Or 94+ ball joints without spacer? Am I over thinking this as it’s not a track car?
Will they press in? I’ve heard some people saying they are ‘too small’ and just fall out of the hole?
Edit: been researching more and now I’m all confused. I can also use a fox ball joint with a spacer, but is that bad for the suspension geometry? Or 94+ ball joints without spacer? Am I over thinking this as it’s not a track car?
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You are overthinking this. If your current Fox ball joints are good then you just need 0.330" of spacer between the SN95 spindle and the castle nut so that you can get the cotter pin to line up and do its job. IF the ball joints are not good then switch to the SN95 ball joints. The Steeda's are really nice but not necessary for a driver.
I tried to get an alignment done a while back and the technician said my drivers ball joint was shot which is why i'm asking. The PO did put new ball joints in prior to selling me the car, and i don't know which year style he put in, but apparently the drivers side may have been bad out of the box as it had play in it (he showed me). So, figured if i was gonna replace them might as well do both. So thanks for the heads up, i will go with the 94+ ball joints, just go standard MOOG or the like.
One thing i'll check before going down this road is to try to verify if he did use Fox ball joints and forgot the spacer... maybe it has 'play' because the castle nut isn't seated all the way... not sure just thinking out loud.
Actually i have a MOOG Fox ball joint already. I purchased it after the alignment session. Since the passenger side ball joint is fine, IF the PO put SN95 ball joints on, is it fine to have the passenger side remain the SN95 style, and me just replace the drivers side with my Fox ball joint and spacer? Or is it not okay to have them be different? This would save me the effort of doing the passenger side. And, i could put the money i would have spent on both new ball joints towards the ball joint press tool.
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