Not trying to be sketchy so I’ll see what’s on there and just match the passenger side.
Either way I’ll be buying a ball joint press tool.
Either way I’ll be buying a ball joint press tool.
Progress Thread Komo's 1990 GT
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Why not just get the loaner tool from the auto parts stores? That’s what I did back in the day.
I checked my existing ball joints, they look to be the SN95 ones:
No spacers. I also jacked the car up and did the kaslcustom method (watched one of his videos)of using a long bar (jack handles) and put it under the tire and lifted up. Per him, if the ball joint is bad I should hear a clunk/knock when lifting and releasing tension on the bar. I didn’t hear anything, can’t shake the tire up/down or side to side. I may just add some grease for now and focus on other things.
As for renting the press vs buying. I typically don’t rent tools because I take so long to accomplish any given job on the car, and generally don’t want to feel rushed to return a tool.
Ordered a MM 4-point K-Member brace (the convertible one, MM website says it works with hardtops as well and has more ground clearance than the hardtop one - not sure why they even have two if thats true), and some poly rack bushings.
Good point.Possibly, deep oil pan and exhaust clearance "things".
Ordered because i'm looking for some 'quick' install type stuff. What i have left will all take me a while and i want to just get the car out and drive it for a while before tearing it apart again, but i still have the bug to keep the modifications coming.
Did I read that without the spacer the nut runs outta thread before they torque down?
Or was that a dream
Or was that a dream
Did I read that without the spacer the nut runs outta thread before they torque down?
Or was that a dream
From my research, if you run a fox ball joint with 94+ spindles without a spacer the castle nut will hit the ball joint taper (end of threads) before being able to tighten down all the way.
The SN95 ball joint is shorter therefore the castle nut can torque down and line up with the cotter pin hole properly.
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Super stoked, got my 90” belt on and the fitment is much better:
The 90.31” belt was at the opposite “looser” side of the range on “E”… my gut is telling me the old belt was just slightly too long and was slipping. Hopefully tomorrow I can fire her up and see if the 90” belt works.
The 90.31” belt was at the opposite “looser” side of the range on “E”… my gut is telling me the old belt was just slightly too long and was slipping. Hopefully tomorrow I can fire her up and see if the 90” belt works.
Ahh, new belt has eliminated my belt squeal, at least on startup. What a relief.
I think this was a combo of the excellent suggestions from Nicholase to shim the accessories as well as dial in the belt length.
I think this was a combo of the excellent suggestions from Nicholase to shim the accessories as well as dial in the belt length.
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Ordered an oil pressure and water temp gauge. Autometer ultralites to match the boost gauge. With FI, should I get a fuel pressure gauge as well or not as important?
I have one but the two big ones to me on any car are motor temp and oil pressure. With a boosted car my next two would be AFR and then boost but I’d listen to the guys with power adders on what they like. If you do get a fuel pressure gauge get a full sweep. Cost more but they have better resolution.
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Anyone know if they make a good looking dual gauge pod for 2 1/16” gauges that isn’t the a-pillar? Below the radio bezel I can only find a 3 gauge pod. The A/C vent has a dual, but they are for 2 5/8” gauges… maybe I need to return mine and get the 2 5/8” gauges?
Also was able to drive her to work today:
I noticed i get a lot of rear end movement going over bumps, like for example going on a curved on ramp or interchange between freeways at higher speeds while turning, if there is a bump in the road the car really wants to kick out from the rear. Need new shocks? For those who don't remember my exact setup, i have H&R Race Springs, unknown condition Koni orange shocks, MM HDLCAs, and a stock sway bar. I wonder if the H&R Race springs are too low for the Konis to keep up.
I noticed i get a lot of rear end movement going over bumps, like for example going on a curved on ramp or interchange between freeways at higher speeds while turning, if there is a bump in the road the car really wants to kick out from the rear. Need new shocks? For those who don't remember my exact setup, i have H&R Race Springs, unknown condition Koni orange shocks, MM HDLCAs, and a stock sway bar. I wonder if the H&R Race springs are too low for the Konis to keep up.
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