Progress Thread Low budget 89 LX build, Car is apart again

[Gravydog]

After spraying 3 coats of primer, I use one of those $10 Harbor Freight purple guns for primer, when they get too bad to clean, I just get a new one.

Unmasked with a black guide coat. The guide coat is for when I sand the primer, it helps to find any low spots and to keep the body line where you want it.

And this is where I'm at for now, of course, when I went to back the car out to clean the garage, when I pushed the clutch pedal I heard a pop, and now I've got almost no clutch. I think the quadrant broke, I can start the car in gear and the clutch engages as soon as I start to let the pedal up, but if I start the car in neutral, I cant put it in any gear. I'll take a better look at it tomorrow.

One more picture, this is one of the donor sections I have for the strut tower/rail repair. Clean Foxbodys are hard to come by around here, they are either super nice, or rusty like my car, any clean rollers or parts car go for more cash than I have in this one, and I can't think of the last time I saw a Fox in a junkyard. I was at the local Pull-a-part with my nephew getting some stuff for his truck, and I saw a 2002 new edge with all the front sheet metal gone, I studied it for a while and came to the conclusion that the rails are either the same, or close enough to make something work, and the strut towers are at least the same at the bottom where they are welded to the rail. So I came back the next day and unbolted the k-member with the motor and everything still attached, I let that hit the ground and cut both rails out with a cordless Sawzall. I'm 99% sure this is going to work, and I will do my best to document it, the boneyards are full of new edges, so hopefully this will be a way to save some Foxes.

 

[Gravydog]

This showed up today, scored it on ebay the other night for $60 shipped, I'm pretty sure this will take care of my clutch problem.

 

[90sickfox]

That's one of the good cables. Stay away from ones with the black plastic ends.

 

[Gravydog]

Well, the new quadrant and cable didn't fix the clutch issue, no big deal since I'm pulling the car apart soon. On a side note, I hope whoever designed the stock quadrant gets to spend their eternity replacing them, what a P.I.T.A.

 

[DSB88GT]

Yeah, it looks like replacement would not be fun. I still have the OEM plastic one and it's 30+ years old, but still functioning properly.

 

[Gravydog]

Well folks, it took a lot longer that I wanted it to, but the garage project is almost finished, life gets in the way of things sometimes. The walls are insulated, and covered with OSB, and the ceiling is covered with OSB, all that's left is to do the blown in insulation in the attic, I have it all sitting here, just have to rent the machine next Saturday and get it done. I wish I would have done this when I had the garage built, before all the lights were in and I filled it full of stuff, it would have been a lot easier, but I was recovering from a motorcycle accident at that time and wasn't physically able to.
Here's a quick pic, it's on the operating table, just waiting on me, I should be able to start pulling the engine and trans after next weekend.

 

[JustinL]

Interested to see how the New Edge shock towers fit, or what from them can fit.

 

[2Blue2]

What he said ^

 

[Potomus Pete]

Like this post alot. You have some nice talent , and make quick work of it for less money . Good car , considering what it was . Cant wait to see more. As for the quadrant amazing what it takes for a supposed simple repair.

 

[Gravydog]

Thanks for all the kind words folks, The garage is officially done, we blew in 56, 25 pound bags of insulation into the attic on Sunday, it holds heat very well now, and I'm a happy man.

Of course, I already got side tracked from the Mustang project, my oldest sons car was involved in a hit and run accident in the parking lot while he was at work, so I needed a beater for him to drive while we fix his car. I found this P.O.S on Facebook and scored it for $420, not running.

The guy I bought it from put a new water pump and timing belt on it, he couldn't get it to run right and thought he screwed up the timing belt install, so I bought it expecting to have to redo it. So on New Years day I started tearing into the motor to redo the timing belt, but found 2 spark plug wires swapped, I put the firing order right,. and it runs great, so score! The best part is, when I'm done with it, I'm sure I can make a few bucks off of it for the Mustang fund.

So tonight I actually made a little progress, got the hood off and started unbolting parts, hope to have the engine and trans out on Saturday, nothing much to show, but here's a couple of progress pics.

I only messed around for a couple of hours, so not too bad. I've actually dreaded this a little bit, there's no turning back now, but this is the easy part. The cheapest, easiest thing you can do is take a car apart, putting them back together is the challenge.

 

[Rdub6]

Isn’t it funny how things come apart with little to no money at all. Then on reassembly, you need this, need that, need the other thing....... and repeat!

 

[JustinL]

After spraying 3 coats of primer, I use one of those $10 Harbor Freight purple guns for primer, when they get too bad to clean, I just get a new one.

Unmasked with a black guide coat. The guide coat is for when I sand the primer, it helps to find any low spots and to keep the body line where you want it.

And this is where I'm at for now, of course, when I went to back the car out to clean the garage, when I pushed the clutch pedal I heard a pop, and now I've got almost no clutch. I think the quadrant broke, I can start the car in gear and the clutch engages as soon as I start to let the pedal up, but if I start the car in neutral, I cant put it in any gear. I'll take a better look at it tomorrow.

One more picture, this is one of the donor sections I have for the strut tower/rail repair. Clean Foxbodys are hard to come by around here, they are either super nice, or rusty like my car, any clean rollers or parts car go for more cash than I have in this one, and I can't think of the last time I saw a Fox in a junkyard. I was at the local Pull-a-part with my nephew getting some stuff for his truck, and I saw a 2002 new edge with all the front sheet metal gone, I studied it for a while and came to the conclusion that the rails are either the same, or close enough to make something work, and the strut towers are at least the same at the bottom where they are welded to the rail. So I came back the next day and unbolted the k-member with the motor and everything still attached, I let that hit the ground and cut both rails out with a cordless Sawzall. I'm 99% sure this is going to work, and I will do my best to document it, the boneyards are full of new edges, so hopefully this will be a way to save some Foxes.

Something just hit me, I have a friend that works in a body shop. Let me message him and ask if he has access to the body measurement system to see if there's a difference between Fox years and New Edge. Or how much the difference is. I'll keep you updated. As for having New Edge towers that you can borrow metal from, I still like your idea and you're right, it's easier to find a New Edge in the junkyard than a Fox.

 

[BlakeusMaximus]

There are some differences, but I bet you can make the aprons work.

 

[LILCBRA]

Oh that frame rail and strut tower bring back some memories! I didn't think it was all that hard to do, just time consuming! Good luck!!

 

[JustinL]

There are some differences, but I bet you can make the aprons work.

YOU are my hero thank you

 

[Gravydog]

I have access to the same measuring equipment, but thanks for posting them! I plan to only use as much of the rail and strut tower as I need, I don't think they are exactly the same, but better than starting from scratch. If it's a success or failure, I will still document it here for all to see.

 

[Rdub6]

There are some differences, but I bet you can make the aprons work.

Any chance you have this diagram for an ‘86?

 

[Gravydog]

Any chance you have this diagram for an ‘86?

The measurements for the '89 should be the same as the '86, but I can check at work on Monday if I remember.

I worked on the car a little more tonight, if I had the right tool to release the fuel lines, the engine and trans would be out.

 

[Gravydog]

Well gang, the engine and tranny came out without much of a fight once I got the fuel lines disconnected this morning. I actually enjoy how easy this car is to work on compared to the more modern junk I usually have to fix. I separated the tranny from the engine and took a look at my clutch, nothing jumped out at me as the problem, but there is some heat scoring on the flywheel and pressure plate, I'm gonna replace everything since it's apart.
Nothing else got done today, helped a friend with his car this afternoon. The next step will be dropping the K-member and the front suspension so I can get at those ugly frame rails.
Here's a few pics from today.

Obligatory half in half out pic.

Driver side rail and strut tower, check out the missing bolt on the steering shaft!

Pass side frame rail, strut tower, Damn that's ugly, it's actually broken right in front of the K-member. I think the condensation from the A/C lines contribute to this. Makes you wonder how long it has looked like this, I mean this doesn't just happen overnight. The guy I got the car from only had it for a few months, he made sure I knew about it, it was the first place I looked anyway, but he said when he got the car he didn't know. I guess sometimes you don't know what you don't know.
Anyhow, this is where I'm at for now, I'll update as I make progress

 

[BlakeusMaximus]

Damn man! Where do you live? I had a 90 notch that I sold with way less rust then that and thought it was bad. Didnt want to deal with it.

I’m in the collision industry as well, glad we don’t have to deal with rust on the cars we move through the shop.