MIL Eliminators

mils can help, or not. when the cel is on, your computure is in limp mode, i dont care what anyone says.

y2k howd you make them? will resistors work?

my car ran rich w/out mine. i bought some upr ones for like 40 bucks, and the richness went away.

Ok wait....correct me if I'm wrong.

The MIL eliminators go inline (in between) the connectors on the rear sensors.

The o2 Extensions go inline with the connectors on the front sensors.

def is correct.. o2 extensions are used for the front o2 sensors because long tube headers push the o2 sensor further from the engine. MIL Eliminators are only used for the rear o2 sensors and basically just makes the computer think its reading right because the rear o2s are pointless.

slow96mustang said:

my car ran rich w/out mine. i bought some upr ones for like 40 bucks, and the richness went away.

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That's odd because the rear O2's don't determine how the car runs. All they do is tell the ECU whether the cats are working properly or not.

AdRock said:

That's odd because the rear O2's don't determine how the car runs. All they do is tell the ECU whether the cats are working properly or not.

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Exactly. The front o2 sensors are what determine rich/lean conditions. The rear's do nothing that affects A/F. All they do is send a signal back to the ECM telling it whether or not the cat's are reducing emmissions the way they are designed to. The MIL eliminators just send that 1.0 volt or whatever the actual voltage is that the ECM expects to see. If it doesn't get that rating, it triggers the light.

The extenders are usually used on the rear in mid-pipe situations. I guess longtubes need them for the front too.

Hahaha, don't worry I will be making the funds shortly. The rear O2s are what trigger the "SES" light to come on. The rear O2 only determine rich/lean conditions? The rears do nothing but affects how the A/F? Hey how bout a contadiction in terms. MILs go in the wiring between the bungs on the mid-pipe and the actual connections. Resistors are only part of the solution.

I got a question. I had my prochamber on for close to a year know and just lived with the check engine light. If I get the plug in mils with it still go off like it should or will it stay on because i waited so long???

You'll have to either disco' the battery, or run a scantool which can erase stored codes, then the light will stay off.

Correction, if you disconnect the battery the light will only stay off for awhile. The computer will recognize that there are no converters. MILs are a must for anyone running an O/R H or X pipe, unless they have a handheld tuner/dyno tune. In order to "plug in" the MILs, you need to disconnect the battery.

sgarlic said:

You'll have to either disco' the battery, or run a scantool which can erase stored codes, then the light will stay off.

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Then itll come back on. Either get the MIL Elims to get the CEL out (its even in the title MALFUNCTION INDICATOR LIGHT ELIMINATOR) or you can buy one of those handhelf programmers from Diablo or Hypersomething which can also shut off the light.




I might have stepped ahead of Sgarlic though, not sure if thats what he meant

Y2K_MustangVert said:

Correction, if you disconnect the battery the light will only stay off for awhile. The computer will recognize that there are no converters. MILs are a must for anyone running an O/R H or X pipe, unless they have a handheld tuner/dyno tune. In order to "plug in" the MILs, you need to disconnect the battery.

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:damnit:

Diablo, SCT, Hypertech.. all good brands, I'm tuning mine out with the SCT Xcalibrator 2 when I get my dyno tune (hopefull in a week or two)

i got mil eliminators and my check engine light is still on and we scanned it and it says 8 different codes for my o2 sensors

waste of 50 bucks