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Minitub ?'s

  • Thread starter Thread starter '69coupe
  • Start date Start date Jul 2, 2003
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68DARKHORSE

New Member
Oct 9, 2003
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Austin, Tx.
Dec 23, 2003
#21
  • Dec 23, 2003
  • #21
Here is a link to the thread.

His front shock plates are cool too. They increase front travel.

http://www.mustangsandmore.com/ubb/Forum12/HTML/005385.html
 

Håkan

Founding Member
Apr 1, 2002
168
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Enköping, Sweden
Dec 23, 2003
#22
  • Dec 23, 2003
  • #22
Fostang said:
Thanks Hakan.
Click to expand...



Not very easy to take a good picture of it, but as you can see I have plenty of room with my 275-60-15 tires, have them on a 15*10 wheel.



Picture above:
Here´s the other side and the ruler there says 365 millimeters or 14 3/4" from the inner wheel well to the inside of the fender.



Above:
The passenger side again. It looks to me at least like a 315 35 17 tire would go in here.

I was thinking about taking a 17" wheel from the 94 GT I have parked outside the garage, but we have like 10" of snow and -4°F up here in northern Europe right now.
 
F

Fostang

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May 8, 2002
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Stockton, Ca
Dec 23, 2003
#23
  • Dec 23, 2003
  • #23
Where did you get your 4 link kit from?
 
F

Fostang

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May 8, 2002
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36
Stockton, Ca
Dec 23, 2003
#24
  • Dec 23, 2003
  • #24
I can't really see how it attaches to the front of the car would you mind sharing that with us.

Thanks for the info.
 

Håkan

Founding Member
Apr 1, 2002
168
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Enköping, Sweden
Dec 23, 2003
#25
  • Dec 23, 2003
  • #25
Fostang said:
Where did you get your 4 link kit from?
Click to expand...

I made it myself. It attaches in front where the leaf springs were attached.
 
6

68DARKHORSE

New Member
Oct 9, 2003
109
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Austin, Tx.
Dec 23, 2003
#26
  • Dec 23, 2003
  • #26
What brand of coil over are you using?
 

Håkan

Founding Member
Apr 1, 2002
168
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Enköping, Sweden
Dec 23, 2003
#27
  • Dec 23, 2003
  • #27
68DARKHORSE said:
What brand of coil over are you using?
Click to expand...

I´m not sure, I bought them used and there was nothing on them that could tell, they look very much like SPAX though. Might be some kind of early SPAX coilovers from the eighties as they have rubber bushings and the shock ain´t adjustable. But I got them for like $80. They were in good shape as they only had been used in the front end of a Chevy Nova drag race car. (We have a very short drag racing season in Sweden)
 
6

68DARKHORSE

New Member
Oct 9, 2003
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Austin, Tx.
Dec 23, 2003
#28
  • Dec 23, 2003
  • #28
Thanks.
 
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Fostang

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May 8, 2002
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Stockton, Ca
Dec 23, 2003
#29
  • Dec 23, 2003
  • #29
Hakan:

I showed my buddy a differential guy who's done these kinds of set up and he had a few concernes and questions.

He says that when you get on it while driving the rear is going to lift because of the pinion wanting to wrap.

If you get enough wrap the differenial yoke is going to come out.

Have you added a pinion support? This might help but you still have a problem with suspension travel.

Whats going to happen as the suspension goes up and down it's going to spin the housing because it needs one tube to shorten while the other get's longer in an up down motion.

Let me know what you think of if you have thought of solutions for these concerns.

I just don't want anything to wrong on your project.
 

Håkan

Founding Member
Apr 1, 2002
168
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0
Enköping, Sweden
Dec 23, 2003
#30
  • Dec 23, 2003
  • #30
Fostang said:
Hakan:
Let me know what you think of if you have thought of solutions for these concerns.

I just don't want anything to wrong on your project.
Click to expand...

No problem Fostang, story of my life, someone has to try...

Yes, I know how the rear will move and that the pinion will "climb" on the ring as we call it over here. Don´t think there´s too much risk of it going to come out though as I have a pinion support and I have the same suspension travel as the original setup. I have been thinking about maybe adding one more link alá TCP that connects between the third member bolts and my homemade subframe connector cross bar/drive shaft loop. We´ll see after the test drives.

It took me a while to figure out the proper geometry that wont make the housing spin when the suspension goes up and down. The upper link attaches to the rearend housing on the radius of how the lower link moves at its attachment point on the rearend housing. That way the housing will move straight up and down half the distance between the two attachment points on the housing and in my case it´s around 3-4".
 
6

'69coupe

New Member
Jul 2, 2003
22
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Las Cruces, NM
Dec 23, 2003
#31
  • Dec 23, 2003
  • #31
67bluestang said:
You mentioned 4 link and moving leaf springs in for clearance. If you're going to a 4 link, you can't run leaf springs, you'll need coil overs. The rear end has to be able to rotate a certain amount and the leaf springs prevent this.
Click to expand...

Yes, I realize this; I don't remeber what I was thinking when posted that since it was a while back.

I haven't had anytime to work on my car, however I am thinking about just rolling the fender well lip and seeing what will fit. In Popular Hot Rodding there is a 69 fastback that they did a feature on that had 315's in the back. It said that he had just rolled his finder well lip in and then measured out the perfect backspacing to make them fit. This seems much easier than tubbing and a 4 link.
 

xoxbxfx

Founding Member
May 9, 2001
3,959
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0
Southlake, TX
Dec 24, 2003
#32
  • Dec 24, 2003
  • #32
[QUOTE='69coupe]Yes, I realize this; I don't remeber what I was thinking when posted that since it was a while back.

I haven't had anytime to work on my car, however I am thinking about just rolling the fender well lip and seeing what will fit. In Popular Hot Rodding there is a 69 fastback that they did a feature on that had 315's in the back. It said that he had just rolled his finder well lip in and then measured out the perfect backspacing to make them fit. This seems much easier than tubbing and a 4 link.[/QUOTE]

The problem with what they did is you are going to have some major rubbage when you hit a bump. The car just isnt designed for 315's without some major work.
 
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