Progress Thread Monkeybutt2000's 89 vert build thread- compression test results

Monkeybutt2000

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Aug 11, 2019
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Never ends. Finally got the car back together,fire it up and heard a noise. I figured it was just a tool I forgot hitting the floor. Let the car run for a minute or so then curiosity got the best of me. Looked under car and saw a large nut. I knew what it was right away. Alternator nut. So,either I didn't tighten it initially or it fell off. Now the threads are buggered,hopefully the threaded shaft is ok on the alternator itself.
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Monkeybutt2000

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Aug 11, 2019
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Finally,after blood, sweat, and tears (and many beers) we got the tune on the car. Wasn't without issue though. The electronic boost controller wasn't cooperating, so we ended up bypassing the wastegate altogether. Steve set the boost cutoff so it wouldn't scatter my engine and we made several pulls. Makes 11ish# boost and is just sick! Runs and drives like a stocker off boost as well. Also,accolades to Steve @a91what, he has the patience of a monk and answers all your questions. Highly recommend Steve for your tuning,really knows his stuff. Unfortunately, the trans has to come back out because the rear main STILL leaks. Hopefully get to the track and make some passes,see what she's got in her.
 

Monkeybutt2000

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Aug 11, 2019
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Never ends. Went to take the boy for a ride and noticed coolant dripping from a heater hose. Got it back in the garage, went to tighten hose when it started hissing loudly. I jumped way back just as the heater core let go.......som'bitch. Little research came up with the this LS swap hose with the correct 3/4-5/8 ends made by ICT billet. Worked perfect for the heater core bypass.
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Monkeybutt2000

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Aug 11, 2019
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So,after the tune session,went back to a no boost condition.....again. Went over the car,even locked out the wastegate,nothing. So,doing research and realized I never had an o-ring on the bov. Got that taken care of,then decided to see if system was air tight. My buddy held the plastic cover that came with the turbo and covered the inlet. I cranked the car just enough to build pressure. It would suck that cover tight against the turbo,then we heard the leak. Vacumn hose on the tree...really. So put a clamp on and took it for a test drive. FULL boost to cutoff. Have a new Tial mvr wastegate coming as well.
 

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Monkeybutt2000

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Aug 11, 2019
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Well,it's been a week since I discovered this. Been mulling over what direction to go. Lost a head gasket,yep chocolate milk☹️
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Thinking about going back to NA,was a whole lot easier and trouble free. Unfortunately,I just don't have time to tear it down. Probably be my last update for awhile. Bummer.....
 

DudeStang

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Apr 30, 2017
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IMG_20200830_091304857.jpg

Still have to figure a filter setup
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The MT drag radials made a huge difference in traction

Turbo setup looks awesome. Súper cool build.

edit: wrote this before the chocolate milk revelation. That sucks! Sorry man.

What size are the rear wheels/tires? Any spacers? I’m trying to decide on a set for my 88 GT. Hoping to get to at least one track day before it gets too cold.
 

Monkeybutt2000

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Aug 11, 2019
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Turbo setup looks awesome. Súper cool build.

edit: wrote this before the chocolate milk revelation. That sucks! Sorry man.

What size are the rear wheels/tires? Any spacers? I’m trying to decide on a set for my 88 GT. Hoping to get to at least one track day before it gets too cold.
275-40-17. No spacers,quad shocks are removed,but they would've worked if flipped around.
 
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Monkeybutt2000

Advanced Member
Aug 11, 2019
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Lafayette,IN
Alright guys, I cannot for the life of me get this lower rear intake to seal. It leaks everytime with the rtv bead method. I'm going to try the rubber china rail gaskets with rtv. Also,looking for another option with the pcv. I HAD a expanding rubber piece in there,but it decided to make an exit. Hell,I thought the car was on fire. There's oil all over the firewall,hoses,etc. Any suggestions on that as well.
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90sickfox

I didn't really have an issue with the stink...
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Mar 2, 2015
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I can help. Get a lower intake set with the cork gaskets. Lay it down in the valley and trim the ends with a razor to lay down. Get some right stuff gasket maker ( I like the can because it's reusable ). Put a bead under the cork gasket and a bead on top. You also need to let it sit for about an hour before you start it. I let mine sit over night.

The problem is that if the gap is too large back there the pressure will push the silicone out.

I had bad luck with leaking valley gaskets in the past and tried everything. I tried the blue rubber gaskets and they would leak too over time. I used to use yellow snot ( super high tack ) on the cork gaskets but found it would get hard over years and start leaking. The cork gaskets will kindof sweat oil after a couple years. Not enough to drip but enough to make the area damp.

The blue ones work sometimes. I put a set on a customers car with just dabs of right stuff in the corners. It lasted for a while but started leaking again in about a year.

Over the last 20yrs the way I do them now works the best for me.
 
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