Mustang5L5 DIY MS3x Thread

[a91what]

Ok don't worry about it then. Thought you might have a bone stock base tune sitting around. If it's going to take time, lets wait until i'm a bit closer to actually getting ready to put this in the car.

all my base tunes are order to fit... now some things in the tune file i sent to you may look off but they are likely just some injector settings and such. I always build AFR tables and Spark tables for boost just so its done for future and people dont have to worry about it.

 

[Mustang5L5]

all my base tunes are order to fit... now some things in the tune file i sent to you may look off but they are likely just some injector settings and such. I always build AFR tables and Spark tables for boost just so its done for future and people dont have to worry about it.

Ok, lets hold off then.

 

[Mustang5L5]

Been quiet because I've been waiting for this to ship down from Canada.

Now to install it in the ms3x and bench test my VSS input.

After that, I just need to diagram out my pin connections and start building my PnP harness

 

[stanglx2002]

So you are going to directly wire the transmission VSS sensor to the MS3 for speedometer or GPS?

 

[Mustang5L5]

For speedometer in case at some point I'd like to do a digital dash

 

[a91what]

For speedometer in case at some point I'd like to do a digital dash

The DD-EFI dash I have has GPS built into it.

 

[Mustang5L5]

Some of the reason was also fan control. My car cools itself very well even with unferdrives pullies. As long as I keep moving the car stays under 190* even on hot days. So I'd like to do fan off over xx MPH as well.

I'm also thinking not doing MAF. Steve you and I need to chat soon. Let me get the VSS sorted out first. Unfortunately I'm renovating my enclosed porch, so trying to get that done asap.

 

[Mustang5L5]

Ok, about to wire up the VR board. Seems pretty straightforward

I know where to mount it, and am going to use SPR3 and SPR4 on the main board (Pin 5 and 6 on the DB37) to run over to the VR board, in addition to +5v and gnd.

Only question is where to send out1 to and where the pad is located on the V3.0 board to hook it up. After I figure that out, i'll hook up my desktop VSS to pin 5&6 on the jimstim and test. Once I confirm it works, I have two more wires down on my PnP harness.

EDIT: I think i'll wire it to JS10

 

[a91what]

lol, do both SD and MAF... use the SD for the IGN and AFR table and the MAF for fuel only... doing it this way will allow for a very flexible installation. dont worry about the MAF pegging if you go to a power adder later, we can just add the extra fuel with a second SD table its much easier than it sounds.

I was able to do a cam change in my engine with my MAF tune and the fuel trims were off by 2-5% [almost nothing] If i had been SD fuel they would have been much different

 

[Mustang5L5]

I guess while i'm here, i'll go ahead and wire up the other VR hookup on the board for the front wheel hub.

What do you think? VSS on the trans and front wheel hub good enough for traction control? I'll prob use JS10 and JS11 but need another pair of inputs for the front ABS sensor.

Might as well set the box up for traction control now while i'm in there.

There are two more spares on the main DB37, but they are setup for CANH and CANL. I need these for digital dash?


I ran the internal jumpers, but was going to remove them to give me the two spares on the DB37 for the front ABS sensor.

 

[a91what]

leave the can inputs alone. use a couple of inputs on the MS3X card instead. the signal is coming in as a square wave from the VR board, so any of the digital inputs should work.

 

[Mustang5L5]

I'd be inputting the raw signal from the wheel sensor through the ms3x if I did that. I'd need to pick up the signal inside and run two wires to the board. Not sure the 3x board has an easy spot to pick it up like the mainboard does

I need to wait til I have it all in front of me. Spent my lunch break researching this and think i'm overthinking It.

 

[a91what]

Ah ok now i understand what your doing, your just getting the signal into the case with unused pins and jumping them to the VR conditioner that you have mounted inside the case correct? If thats what your doing then yes you can desolder the jumpers for the canbus and use them. The digital dash is actually going to be running TS full time so it connects to the MS just like a laptop would.

 

[Mustang5L5]

Ah ok now i understand what your doing, your just getting the signal into the case with unused pins and jumping them to the VR conditioner that you have mounted inside the case correct?

Yup. That's exactly what i'm doing. One will go to trans VSS and the other one the front wheel ABS sensor.

 

[a91what]

that will work for what you want to accomplish.

 

[Mustang5L5]

Ok, VR conditioner hooked up. Only did the VSS input as my soldering iron tip broke and I couldn't complete the circuit for the wheel speed sensor. I can always do that later.

Anyway. Wired it in on SPR3 - PIN5 (VSS-) and SPR4 PIN6 (VSS+) on the main DB37 and connected the output to JS10...which should remain unused as my ignition outputs will be on the MS3x. Just to confirm...the stock tach does not get a signal through the ECU correct? Neg side of coil?

ANyway, some photos of the mounting placement and wiring. I hooked up a spare VSS and she works. My drill only goes to 1500RPM so couldn't really test it beyond 15MPH without fudging the settings a bit. But VSS is done. Set up fan control so that the fan output will turn off at 40MPH and back on again at 30MPH. Cool stuff.

I've started making notes and working on my PnP harness now. Other than eventually adding the wheel speed sensor, and mods for the CAS and Quadspark, my box should be good to go for running a stock TFI setup with all the sensors. Just need to wire it into the car now

I feel like I should bench test the MAF input, but I also feel it's pretty darn simple. I may also program outputs for the TAD and TAB. Seems easy enough with rpm and coolant temp triggers. No idea what to do with charcoal canister though as I don't know the on/off logic for it

 

[a91what]

Charcoal could be used after tuning is done, low load condition over 1500rpm and 40mph... also needs to trigger a table switch to remove fuel or allow ego correction to remove what's needed... I would build a circuit for it and hold off on using it.

 

[a91what]

Also once you go to coils you will need to wire the tach output to the idm circuit to drive the factory tach once the coil is not used.
Btw I found out that 2000 model year VW use a 4 post coil pack that is logic level, I would see if these are feasible as they eliminate the need for the quadraspark.

 

[Mustang5L5]

Also once you go to coils you will need to wire the tach output to the idm circuit to drive the factory tach once the coil is not used.
Btw I found out that 2000 model year VW use a 4 post coil pack that is logic level, I would see if these are feasible as they eliminate the need for the quadraspark.

Looks like i'll need to dig back into the box at some point to configure the idm circuit as I stole JS10 for the VSS input. Not a big deal.

The more I read into this, the more I want to use logic coils. But I guess we will cross that bridge when I come to it.

 

[Mustang5L5]

Btw I found out that 2000 model year VW use a 4 post coil pack that is logic level, I would see if these are feasible as they eliminate the need for the quadraspark.

These?



Been reading up on them. I see someone is using them on a Ford V8 using LS plug ends to fit the towers. Hopped on ebay and bought a used one for $20. Maybe i'll play around with it on a bench. Would just need to fabricate a mount for a pair of them, but easy enough if it simplies wiring.

I believe that would also allow me to just use Pin 26 (tacho) output on the MS3X card to drive my tach...so I don't need to mess with JS10 that's typically used and currently operating my VSS

Of course this is down the road. Right now just want to get the stock TFI setup up and running. Been reading up on separating the TFI from controlling the coil, but honestly for just an initial temp setup I should just keep it simple especially if i'm just going to rip it out and change it up anyway