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So I’m going to ditch the MRT hood struts. I haven’t exactly been pleased with them.
They barely hold the hood up. In fact in a light breeze from the rear, the hood will close on its own. Also when hanging the refrigerant gauges from hood, it wouldn’t support the weight. The hood would close.
Nail in the coffin is they interfer with the C/C plates. No matter what I adjust they hit. I have to put a silly amount of camber in for them to not hit.
These struts also make aligning the hood a PITA as they push the hood up high at the rear.
So o took advantage of the LMR 6% sale and ordered the Redline kit. I think it will fix all my concerns. Downside is I need to drill but I think this will be a permanent mod.
I need to finalize my camber so I can set my toe properly. These damn MRT hood struts have been a hurdle to getting that done.
They barely hold the hood up. In fact in a light breeze from the rear, the hood will close on its own. Also when hanging the refrigerant gauges from hood, it wouldn’t support the weight. The hood would close.
Nail in the coffin is they interfer with the C/C plates. No matter what I adjust they hit. I have to put a silly amount of camber in for them to not hit.
These struts also make aligning the hood a PITA as they push the hood up high at the rear.
So o took advantage of the LMR 6% sale and ordered the Redline kit. I think it will fix all my concerns. Downside is I need to drill but I think this will be a permanent mod.
I need to finalize my camber so I can set my toe properly. These damn MRT hood struts have been a hurdle to getting that done.
Hmmm, I'd say good to know, but I think I'm ok with sticking with the prop rod. I hope the new ones work better for you though.
I have the redline. I like them a lot. One word of caution is make sure when you drill the underside of the hood don't let the bit push through and hit the underside of the hood skin. Makes nasty little marks.
+1 on what @Mstng93SSP said. If you have some sort of bit with a positive stop, I’d use it. I did the “wrap tape around the bit” method and the tape slid a little on the bit. Luckily no damage!
There’s not much room between drilling the hole, and yelling a whole bunch of 4 letter words!
There’s not much room between drilling the hole, and yelling a whole bunch of 4 letter words!
I
I admit to being a little slow, but your unit is assembled? Did you reuse your old seal?
I rebuilt mine a long time ago. Fully assembled and on the car charged and working. I used a brand new seal
I wrote the thread on rebuilding the compressor when I did it which is currently on the top page of the tech forum.
If I get my hands on another used compressor I’ll likely rebuild it as it seemed these things are getting more expensive
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Check the last few posts in this thread. That other kit does include the right seal it seems.
I applaud your efforts big time and the AC seems cold , but I was expecting it to be colder with r12 . I just did my mothers car the other day 134 . After vacuuming it down and charging it I had it sitting in my driveway blowing 38.9 -40.2 out of the vents . I was thinking 12 could get down maybe even lower then that . Granted it’s too cold I’ll be the first to admit . I just thought there was a real advantage but I guess not .
I’m not sure where in the process I took that pic but I’m not sure it reflects the lowest temp possible by the system. I was just excited to find it cold in the interior and took a pic. It could have dropped after some more time but I was busy outside the car checking pressures and looking for leaks with the sniffer and all that fun stuff.
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Redline hood struts came in. Packaging is sweet. Now to get these installed and get the MRT ones off.
I went with the “plus” kit which features the black coated brackets and hardware. The standard kit is use zinc coated.
Elite kit was the same with SS shocks. I wanted black.
I went with the “plus” kit which features the black coated brackets and hardware. The standard kit is use zinc coated.
Elite kit was the same with SS shocks. I wanted black.
That’s nice! I wanted black also, but I didn’t see the “middle kit” with black hardware when I ordered. Would have been nice!Redline hood struts came in. Packaging is sweet. Now to get these installed and get the MRT ones off.
I went with the “plus” kit which features the black coated brackets and hardware. The standard kit is use zinc coated.
Elite kit was the same with SS shocks. I wanted black.
Installed. Easy.
I went with the MRT kit because of the “no drill”, but this kit isn’t that bad. Nice hardware than blends in.
The install height is higher than the MRT kit. It’s also much more assertive in how it lifts the hood and holds it. The MRT struts are just too weak. Not sure if that’s typical or I got bad struts
One thing to note. I changed out my fender hardware to ARP 12-point. Well they say high enough to interfer with the struts here at this bolt. The body of the strut hits the bolt and it prevents it from closing all the way. I swapped this one bolt to a low-profile torx bolt and problem solved.
Bye bye MRT kit. Wish I could return you
Now to finish aligning my fenders and adjusting my camber/toe.
I went with the MRT kit because of the “no drill”, but this kit isn’t that bad. Nice hardware than blends in.
The install height is higher than the MRT kit. It’s also much more assertive in how it lifts the hood and holds it. The MRT struts are just too weak. Not sure if that’s typical or I got bad struts
One thing to note. I changed out my fender hardware to ARP 12-point. Well they say high enough to interfer with the struts here at this bolt. The body of the strut hits the bolt and it prevents it from closing all the way. I swapped this one bolt to a low-profile torx bolt and problem solved.
Bye bye MRT kit. Wish I could return you
Now to finish aligning my fenders and adjusting my camber/toe.
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Starting setting the camber this afternoon. If you remember I incorrectly installed my CC plates with the washers in the wrong position, so I corrected that.
Upon setting the camber, I found that I was unable to achieve 0 degrees camber or even positive camber. I had to max out both plates outwards and only had maybe 1 degree negative.
Now I’m fine with that (1 degree is what I wanted) , but my issue is not having the correct range to even get to 0. I feel like there should be a tad more adjustability.
So need to loosen the strut bolts and see if I tightened them with the strut pushed in (less positive camber) or pulled out (more)
Two steps forward, one step back.
Upon setting the camber, I found that I was unable to achieve 0 degrees camber or even positive camber. I had to max out both plates outwards and only had maybe 1 degree negative.
Now I’m fine with that (1 degree is what I wanted) , but my issue is not having the correct range to even get to 0. I feel like there should be a tad more adjustability.
So need to loosen the strut bolts and see if I tightened them with the strut pushed in (less positive camber) or pulled out (more)
Two steps forward, one step back.
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Ripped a few laps in this today.
Still amazed at how well this thing can turn a corner.
Still amazed at how well this thing can turn a corner.
Same track as last time?Ripped a few laps in this today.
Still amazed at how well this thing can turn a corner.
s
Yup, but now that I am familiar with the course I did much better. I have a video. Give me a few days to put it on YouTube and post it
Yup, but now that I am familiar with the course I did much better. I have a video. Give me a few days to put it on YouTube and post it
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