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Obsessing way too much over every little detail is the regularly scheduled program in this thread.

I don't necessarily think this is obsessing. This is what I do all day long, so it's not as complex as I make it seem to be. 5 mins of modeling, toss it on the 3D printer. Test fit, 5 mins to make a cut program, 30 seconds of active cutting and toss it in a brake and bend. Done. Most of that done while sitting in AC sipping a coffee. In about 3 months when we buy a 3D printer capable of printing metals I can just model and print it in 316L and call it a day.

Fabricating is fabrication. I just happen to have access to different methods of doing so. I like my methods. :shrug:
 
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I don't necessarily think this is obsessing. This is what I do all day long, so it's not as complex as I make it seem to be. 5 mins of modeling, toss it on the 3D printer. Test fit, 5 mins to make a cut program, 30 seconds of active cutting and toss it in a brake and bend. Done. Most of that done while sitting in AC sipping a coffee. In about 3 months when we buy a 3D printer capable of printing metals I can just model and print it in 316L and call it a day.

Fabricating is fabrication. I just happen to have access to different methods of doing so. I like my methods. :shrug:
I just like poking you in the eye with a stick…:stick:
 
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Do you need a logo/emblem on the cap? I'd be tempted to sand back and refinish as is plain black.

Or even engrave some dorky 'P/S FLUID' OEM styled font and paint that in a yellow?

Dunno. Just thinking along your OEM lines but I look how clean you've got it all set up. Shoehorning 'Ford' or something there might look frenetic?

Looking good :cool::nice:

It’s laser marked or acid etched into the powdercoating. I want to keep the matching finish so I don’t want to necessarily refinish the cap. I just think for that particular item I want to change the graphic to something else.


As much as I say I don’t want corporate logos on my car, I did leave the big Baer logo on the MC. Guess I am picky about what logos I leave
 
I don't necessarily think this is obsessing. This is what I do all day long, so it's not as complex as I make it seem to be. 5 mins of modeling, toss it on the 3D printer. Test fit, 5 mins to make a cut program, 30 seconds of active cutting and toss it in a brake and bend. Done. Most of that done while sitting in AC sipping a coffee. In about 3 months when we buy a 3D printer capable of printing metals I can just model and print it in 316L and call it a day.

Fabricating is fabrication. I just happen to have access to different methods of doing so. I like my methods. :shrug:
My God, the possibilities...
 
My God, the possibilities...

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I don't necessarily think this is obsessing. This is what I do all day long, so it's not as complex as I make it seem to be. 5 mins of modeling, toss it on the 3D printer. Test fit, 5 mins to make a cut program, 30 seconds of active cutting and toss it in a brake and bend. Done. Most of that done while sitting in AC sipping a coffee. In about 3 months when we buy a 3D printer capable of printing metals I can just model and print it in 316L and call it a day.

Fabricating is fabrication. I just happen to have access to different methods of doing so. I like my methods. :shrug:
Mike's just jelly :jester:
Well ok, I'd be jelly too if I had stuff like that to play with after all, I gots the coffee and AC part down.
 
This fits perfect.

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I’ll write a laser cut program Monday (takes 5) min and squeeze in some time to cut it next week. I just didn’t have much time at work this week. Aparentky the world needs chips and that’s been keeping me busy.
 
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Decided I’m going to pull the 30# injectors and stick my 19# injectors back in. This will allow me to use my current 70mm MAF and eliminate one more variable in getting my combo running properly.

Since some of the pintle caps are busted, I ordered up a repair kit.

Obviously this won’t be my long term plan, but for idling in my driveway while I finish the car it will work fine

I also have a set of 24s

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The stars aligned and I got time on the cutter.

Made three. Figure I rattle can one for now and later on I’ll send the other two out for powdercoat with a few misc other items I want to PC

3D printed prototype with my cut parts
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After bending in a brake
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I ordered a piece of 16mm power steering return hose. Here’s the bend I need to make. The fitting on the reservoir is metal, but the power steering housing is plastic so I can’t put too much bending stress on it.


The fitting on the reservior is removable. I’m almost tempted to try and see if I can find a different fitting that might work better. Let’s see how it fits with the hose first
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Bolted in place
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I may be getting carried away with the ARP hardware
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Impossible.

Also, I take back what I said about the possibility of the bracket walking or turning. Its abutment directly against the compressor bracket is likely to prevent any such occurrence. I wish I had access to a brake that could bend metal that thick.
 
I ordered a piece of 16mm power steering return hose. Here’s the bend I need to make. The fitting on the reservoir is metal, but the power steering housing is plastic so I can’t put too much bending stress on it.


The fitting on the reservior is removable. I’m almost tempted to try and see if I can find a different fitting that might work better. Let’s see how it fits with the hose first
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Here’s the outside looking in. If you made the bracket, and don’t have to settle for where it ends up locating the reservoir,..Why didn’t you just build the bracket so that drain spout is directly over the reservoir inlet.
 
There are all types of pre bent transmission hoses. This might be close. I know volvo remote mounts it's reservoir also. The volvo hose is 16mm. This is for a Honda. Unsure of diameter but bend looks close in one section.

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Impossible.

Also, I take back what I said about the possibility of the bracket walking or turning. Its abutment directly against the compressor bracket is likely to prevent any such occurrence. I wish I had access to a brake that could bend metal that thick.

I just used a little vice mounted brake. I used .100 steel but it was at the limit of what it could do. Still, gave it a pretty sharp 90 bend

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Here’s the outside looking in. If you made the bracket, and don’t have to settle for where it ends up locating the reservoir,..Why didn’t you just build the bracket so that drain spout is directly over the reservoir inlet.

I tried to. Moving it forward caused two issues. One is room to get the 6AN hose end on the front fitting. It’s tight and the routing isn’t where I want it to be due to trying to squeeze between the battery tray, sway bar mount and where the return line is running down the frame rail. I sorta compromised a bit on where the front fitting needed to go and the rear drain fitting. The power steering pump bracket is also getting close. Another issue was the center rib of the ac compressor interferes with the bolts that mount the can in the spot that would provide a straight shot. I can bend a slight offset to account for that however

You are right that it’s a great idea and I can still do it if I find that the hose isn’t happy making that bend. I’m just going to try this first, and if it looks like it’s not going to work, I’ll remake the bracket.

I think I might even have a price of .100 stainless I can cut it from. Don’t even need to coat it.
 
Well, not going to work. Too much bend. I have to find a tight s-hose with a 3.25” overall lenght and .4” offset.

Or I redo the bracket.

I might try to put a “clean” 20 degree twist on the upper portion of this bracket first and see if that rotates the bottle into a better spot. Nothing to lose since I have three brackets I no longer can use

I took froday off from work. I need some garage time to think about this.

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