Build Thread Mustang5L5's Build Thread -

[Black1987]

Without. The old Ford Motorsport one that originally sold for $399 new up until 2003. Not the made in china post 2003 intake

Realistic price on eBay buy it now, would be $700. Should go for more to the right buyer.

I sold the China one new for $500 local, but selling to the foxbody crowd is a few and far between.
There’s the ones that know and then there’s the ones that call the Explorer the GT40 intake

 

[Mustang5L5]

Less than I was thinking. I'd bet that will take a while to drop since it's a Ford Performance parts kit rather than a regular Ford part. Might be worth looking into what the components cost separately.

Actually, that's a good point. I tracked down the individual parts number and priced it out but doesn't appear to be a whole lot of savings. However, the intake tube isn't really needed, and it appears you don't need the fuel line as well. I'm going off feedback i'm reading online about the swap. Really just need the evap line and bracket.

intake tube: Cr3Z-9B659-B

2012-2013 Ford Mustang Engine Air Intake Hose CR3Z-9B659-B | TascaParts.com

2012-2013 Ford Mustang part # CR3Z-9B659-B - Engine Air Intake Hose

www.tascaparts.com

Fuel Line:
CR3Z-9J280-A

Pipe Fuel CR3Z-9J280-A | TascaParts.com

CR3Z-9J280-A - Pipe Fuel

www.tascaparts.com

Vapor Line: CR3Z-9B297-A

CR3Z-9G297-A CR3Z9G297A Genuine Ford Part

Ford part # CR3Z-9G297-A CR3Z9G297A, Base part # 9G297, $113.66 online at FordPartsGiant.com. Wholesale-priced and fast-delivered Ford parts Hose - Fuel Vapour.

www.fordpartsgiant.com

Evap Bracket: CR3Z-9G290-B

Bracket CR3Z-9G290-B | TascaParts.com

CR3Z-9G290-B - Bracket

www.tascaparts.com

https://performanceparts.ford.com/download/instructionsheets/FordInstShtM-9424-M50B.pdf

 

[General karthief]

The 'gt40 tubular intake' for the coyote crowed.

 

[Mustang5L5]

Ok. Need to figure out my lines. This isn’t gonna work

 

[bird_dog0347]

Back one comes off fine. Front one....I’ll need to modify the brace a tad

If I ever pull my MM STB off again, I will first weld the nuts on the underside of the shock tower so that all I have to do is set it in place from the engine bay and bolt it down and on... I recommend you do the same while you have room.

 

[Mustang5L5]

If I ever pull my MM STB off again, I will first weld the nuts on the underside of the shock tower so that all I have to do is set it in place from the engine bay and bolt it down and on... I recommend you do the same while you have room.

i wanted to do it, but forgot. I can’t really do it now without messing up the paint from the heat. If I end up using a spacer to lift the STB, I would need to redrill the 2 front facing bolt holes anyway.

 

[bird_dog0347]

i wanted to do it, but forgot. I can’t really do it now without messing up the paint from the heat. If I end up using a spacer to lift the STB, I would need to redrill the 2 front facing bolt holes anyway.

I would still do it and just repaint that top area... sand around it first, weld, paint. Also, I think in your case I would also notch/cut the STB around the MC and then weld on a flat plate and close it back up to clearance it then powder coat it again. I really don't think it will weaken it to the point of failure or really much at all.

Just my thoughts and is what I will do if I have to make big modifications like you did.

 

[Mustang5L5]

That’s actually what I was thinking of doing. Grind the underside of that bar just enough to clear the cap and allow me to remove it, and then plate it in, grind the welds smooth and repowdercoat.

 

[stanglx2002]

I was gonna do a spin off thread and link when I do the compressor. Not a lot of info out there on rebuilding these, but remans are in the $300+ range plus core.

I would like a thread on this for sure. I have a unit for my latest build, and much rather rebuild it myself then pay the money for a reman one.

 

[Mustang5L5]

I would like a thread on this for sure. I have a unit for my latest build, and much rather rebuild it myself then pay the money for a reman one.

I’ll spin a thread off shortly. I’ve got info and part numbers on the AC clutch disassembly and bearing replavement. Figure one big thread for everything would be helpful.

I’ll prob rebuild the compressor in the next month or so. I want to get over a few hurdles on the car first

 

[General karthief]

We can sticky that compressor rebuild thread

 

[Mustang5L5]

A/C compressor rebuild thread is here. It's a locked thread for now. Let me at least populate it with enough info for now and then I will open it for discussion/feedback/questions. All future postings about the compressor rebuild will be there and not in this thread.

Engine - Nippon-Denso 6P148A A/C Compressor Reseal

I plan on rebuilding a factory NipponDenso 6P148A Compressor. This thread will show details of that progress. It will be completed in stages, so I recommend clicking the watch button at the top right to get future updates as this won't be done all at once. Initial thread will be a bit all...

www.stangnet.com

If you want to subscribe to the thread, hit the "WATCH" button at the top right of the thread.

 

[Mustang5L5]

Soooo...I think i'm going to ditch the ATS Brembos. I've been playing around with them a bit and just not happy with the fit. I'm limited on wheels, can't run most of the wheels I already have, would need a spacer just to clear the aftermarket wheels I want to get, and I need to shave the pads down a bit.

I think i'm going to go with a different setup.

Front Track4 High Performance Brake System SN95 Mustang 4261276 - Baer Brakes

baer.com

My Baer MC will work. Just trying to research if I can get away with using the Sn95 cobra rear disks, maybe with the 43mm calipers.

I'll hold onto my Brembo's for now, but if I decide to go this route I will sell them off.

 

[TOOLOW91]

Soooo...I think i'm going to ditch the ATS Brembos. I've been playing around with them a bit and just not happy with the fit. I'm limited on wheels, can't run most of the wheels I already have, would need a spacer just to clear the aftermarket wheels I want to get, and I need to shave the pads down a bit.

I think i'm going to go with a different setup.

Front Track4 High Performance Brake System SN95 Mustang 4261276 - Baer Brakes

baer.com

My Baer MC will work. Just trying to research if I can get away with using the Sn95 cobra rear disks, maybe with the 43mm calipers.

I'll hold onto my Brembo's for now, but if I decide to go this route I will sell them off.

I have a dealer for this stuff if you don’t have one

 

[Mustang5L5]

I have a dealer for this stuff if you don’t have one

I'll let you know. I printed off the template and am going to check wheel fit first.

 

[General karthief]

I have a dealer for this stuff if you don’t have one

This could be an 'honorable mention '.

 

[TOOLOW91]

I'll let you know. I printed off the template and am going to check wheel fit first.

Pm me when you’re ready. Should save you a few bucks . You’re already doing the first step which is what he tells everyone . Check with the template

 

[Mustang5L5]

So I noticed this....

What do you think? Would it be a little OCD to return it and get a new one over this? Now that I see it, it’s always gonna bug me. This is the side tgar faces into the engine compartment.

 

[bird_dog0347]

Once the Coyote is in there, I doubt it will be visible.

 

[BlakeusMaximus]

I noticed that on one of the previous pics. I thought that looked funny. Im not too OCD, but that might bug me, and Im sure that cost you a pretty penny.