that's not a bad idea. my setup (which is all going to be for sale soon once i drop in the 351). is a 302 super victor efi setup with -8 180 fittings in the front. the rear has a -8 crossover. those front lines go to a remote regulator like you said. for what it is...it works very well. ive had no issues. the only thing i can say is make sure you get lines that are ptfe "teflon" lined or lines that you've researched and wont smell(if you're going to stay with rubber either gates barricade or earls vapor guard) but earls require their own fittings. ive got some summit braided 8an hose and theres definitely permeation going on. switching to ptfe when the 351 goes in.
i made the same mistake as you. i have brodix heads and bought the thermactor plus and was nicely surprised they didnt fit either. i think i spent like 5 bucks on ebay and got a pack of 5 3/8 npt plugs and called it a day. im not sure of the thread size for trick flow, but they may be similiar.
Back to fuel lines, if I were you I would go stock. Clean that chrome and or paint, etch the chrome with sand blaster plugging off the ends of course. If your concerned about the crossover line breaking down it is a concern with any breaded line you buy. The anodizing breaks down in the fittings and little bits of teflon coating deteriorate where the fitting meets the line and all that goes through the injectors. After owning a poor quality aftermarket chrome mustang wheels for a short time, Mike you convinced me of one thing when I did my brake swap there is no one that makes higher quality parts, more proven for corrosion, longevity and quality. I would bet the OEM's severe weather corrosion test budget exceeds the cost of the aftermarket brake development budget. This goes for brake parts and wheels but would also apply it to fuel rails.
You make good points. The OEM lines are probably more robust, but unsure how well I could clean them up, or if the crossover lines can be easily replaced and still be robust. My concern is 31 year old rubber line and E10. Last thing I want to do is lose my car in a fire due to a split line.
Regardless, I have some time. Let me see if the stock lines will clean up well
Decided to tackle my leaking low oil sensor. This thing has been a major leak for a decade.
I did replace the gasket with an LMR repop. When I removed the sensor recently, it had cracked.
So I ordered an OEM gasket. Part number E4AZ-6C646-B. Right away I notice that the raised ridge is a lot softer than the LRS repop.
But, i suspect the sensor is leaking internally, so I pull it apart. Fairly easy to do. Remove the clip, tap out the blue rubber insert, and then carefully pry up the retaining ring. Then pull out the sensor core with needle nose.
Shot of the retainer ring installed once blue insert removed
Just as I suspected, a lot of leaking oil past the seal, which is the black gasket. It was hardened. I thought the raised ridge was an o ring, so I tried to remove it and damaged it. So now it’s junk.
A repro is $100
So I ordered a 20mm x 1.5 drain plug off Amazon for $3. I’ll deal with it some other time.