Mustang5l5's Progress Thread - final work on the engine

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bird_dog0347

I really enjoyed seeing your rear end up close
5 Year Member
Jun 7, 2012
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24 should be more than enough, but if you want to use 30's with the MS3 go for it... if you're not going to use them I'd say leave them new and go 24's.
 

Mustang5L5

A little massaging and it went right in
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
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So doing research on the fuel rails. The BBK ones don’t seem to get a good rep. Plus, I’m going to change all the fittings and hoses anyway.

So, what about these? I’ll add AN fittings and I know I’ll need a remote regulator. At least I’d be future-proof for anything that comes later


6A14DFCC-339C-442A-9BD8-BF82D4015717.png
 

ndfox92

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Mar 14, 2019
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that's not a bad idea. my setup (which is all going to be for sale soon once i drop in the 351). is a 302 super victor efi setup with -8 180 fittings in the front. the rear has a -8 crossover. those front lines go to a remote regulator like you said. for what it is...it works very well. ive had no issues. the only thing i can say is make sure you get lines that are ptfe "teflon" lined or lines that you've researched and wont smell(if you're going to stay with rubber either gates barricade or earls vapor guard) but earls require their own fittings. ive got some summit braided 8an hose and theres definitely permeation going on. switching to ptfe when the 351 goes in.
 

Mustang5L5

A little massaging and it went right in
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
32,005
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I need to stick to my mantra of buying quality parts and not cheap parts. Cheaper to buy good parts the first time.

Needed two thermactor plugs. The trick flow ones are $20 for two.

Found a guy selling 4 for $10

Yeah they don’t fit.
AF962217-486D-4A7D-BC86-394D22DA3DAC.jpeg


Not worth spending $4-5 to send them back to get a $5 refund

Now I gotta spend the $20 on truck flow plugs. That’s $30 vs $20 to do it right the first time
 
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Mustang5L5

A little massaging and it went right in
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
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Also, machines up some “brake caliper simulators”

Will allow me to remove my front calipers and plug the lines, and still use the rear brakes as my car is a roller and I need to move it around when I do the k member and engine bay.

Lot easier to clean and paint and not worry about damaging the bright red calipers

72A89981-304A-4E1A-96BD-B313D8BCF5DC.jpeg
 

ndfox92

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Mar 14, 2019
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i made the same mistake as you. i have brodix heads and bought the thermactor plus and was nicely surprised they didnt fit either. i think i spent like 5 bucks on ebay and got a pack of 5 3/8 npt plugs and called it a day. im not sure of the thread size for trick flow, but they may be similiar.
 

Wayne Waldrep

Before I post a pic, do you have one of yours?
15 Year Member
Apr 14, 2003
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Hmm...I have some of them but I've never ordered them. I just get them from Fastenal. Or are they different for the TF head?
 

90sickfox

I didn't really have an issue with the stink...
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My TF heads used the regular stock thermactor plugs. They are straight cut and not tapered like a npt fitting.
 

Mustang5L5

A little massaging and it went right in
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
32,005
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They should all be 5/8-11"

Seller claimed they worked with all heads, stock of aftermarket. Clearly they were machined wrong.

A 5/8-11 bolt fits perfectly into the hole. The TFS plugs fit easily.


UPDATE: Seller claims a bad batch. Sending me 4 new ones.
 
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HotFox

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Back to fuel lines, if I were you I would go stock. Clean that chrome and or paint, etch the chrome with sand blaster plugging off the ends of course. If your concerned about the crossover line breaking down it is a concern with any breaded line you buy. The anodizing breaks down in the fittings and little bits of teflon coating deteriorate where the fitting meets the line and all that goes through the injectors. After owning a poor quality aftermarket chrome mustang wheels for a short time, Mike you convinced me of one thing when I did my brake swap there is no one that makes higher quality parts, more proven for corrosion, longevity and quality. I would bet the OEM's severe weather corrosion test budget exceeds the cost of the aftermarket brake development budget. This goes for brake parts and wheels but would also apply it to fuel rails.
 

Mustang5L5

A little massaging and it went right in
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
32,005
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Massachusetts
You make good points. The OEM lines are probably more robust, but unsure how well I could clean them up, or if the crossover lines can be easily replaced and still be robust. My concern is 31 year old rubber line and E10. Last thing I want to do is lose my car in a fire due to a split line.

Regardless, I have some time. Let me see if the stock lines will clean up well
 

HotFox

10 Year Member
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You cant buy a new one or have a NOS one stashed away? Lol

I dont think ruptioning is a big issue with the ethonal other wise there would have been a bunch of burnt cars and some nice lawsuits.
 

Mustang5L5

A little massaging and it went right in
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
32,005
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Massachusetts
You cant buy a new one or have a NOS one stashed away? Lol

I dont think ruptioning is a big issue with the ethonal other wise there would have been a bunch of burnt cars and some nice lawsuits.
No, but I found a fairly cheap 94-95 rail on eBay with regulator. I might pick it up. I’ve made an offer. Much cleaner than my current rail.
 

Mustang5L5

A little massaging and it went right in
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
32,005
8,198
224
Massachusetts
Decided to tackle my leaking low oil sensor. This thing has been a major leak for a decade.

I did replace the gasket with an LMR repop. When I removed the sensor recently, it had cracked.

So I ordered an OEM gasket. Part number E4AZ-6C646-B. Right away I notice that the raised ridge is a lot softer than the LRS repop.

But, i suspect the sensor is leaking internally, so I pull it apart. Fairly easy to do. Remove the clip, tap out the blue rubber insert, and then carefully pry up the retaining ring. Then pull out the sensor core with needle nose.

Shot of the retainer ring installed once blue insert removed
DB8FBC26-C07B-40C1-87FE-8636CDA0FD32.jpeg

The core
44F084A0-C30D-460B-B6B6-6657C06FA59E.jpeg


Exploded view
9F3F93D1-CB86-44C9-957D-C5549FA8EF2A.jpeg


Just as I suspected, a lot of leaking oil past the seal, which is the black gasket. It was hardened. I thought the raised ridge was an o ring, so I tried to remove it and damaged it. So now it’s junk.

A repro is $100

So I ordered a 20mm x 1.5 drain plug off Amazon for $3. I’ll deal with it some other time.