Mustang5l5's Progress Thread - Archived Progress thread '08-'20.

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Now my big oops. Needed 6.800” pushrods.... I ordered 7.800

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My new Ford racing dipstick doesn’t fit the block hole. Need to investigate this.

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Slowly getting there
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lookin real nice! Hope I get to this stage with mine some day!
 
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I noticed in an earlier post you said 7.8 first then 6.8 the next sentence. I just thought it was a typo. It's my fault for not saying something! :doh:

The engine looks really good though!

I don't know how I brain-farted that one. I've had 6.800" written on my white-board for a week now. Guess I was just juggling too much a once. Oh well.

I bought from summit, so should be easy enough to return and get the right ones. Fortunately this isn't holding anything up
 
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I used the same dipstick on my car. I had to use a bench grinder to wire wheel off the chrome plating where it goes into the block. That allowed it to fit nicely in the block.

You're just a magnet for NOS parts at great prices, aren't you?

That's what I figure i'd have to do. Shouldn't be too much work I guess.


When you've been gathering parts for this build for 4-5 years now...you have time to ebay search for all sorts of goodies. I'm also trying my best to avoid generic, or aftermarket parts and use quality or OEM stuff.
 
Anyone ever see this part in black? Or am I better off painting my existing?

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Time to start refurbing various brackets and parts going back on the engine that aren’t new.

I trust my original 31 year old dist more than a reman
 
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A little massaging of the dipstick and it went right in.

16DB01A7-6370-478B-8DCF-ACE529BA7325.jpeg

I realize the header needs to go on first. But it gives the illusion of progress.

Oh and ignore the FRAM oil filter. I had it kicking around and will just use it up until I do my first oil system prime. Then i'll toss a nice Motorcraft FL-1A on it

On my list of things to buy:
New pushrods (again)
Spring kit
Valve covers.

In the meantime, it’s time to refurb everything else and start putting it on the engine

Things like this
F89641DF-5CB0-43DD-827C-50D5B5838AFE.jpeg
 
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Put a couple drops of oil on the nipple so it seeps into where the o ring (or plastic wedge, can't remember) seals the line before you install that heater tube.
just say'n.

I was wondering if I should replace the O-rings while i'm here...


Or, since it wasn't leaking, I should just leave it alone and apply some oil and call it a day
 
A little massaging of the dipstick and it went right in.

16DB01A7-6370-478B-8DCF-ACE529BA7325.jpeg

I realize the header needs to go on first. But it gives the illusion of progress.

Oh and ignore the FRAM oil filter. I had it kicking around and will just use it up until I do my first oil system prime. Then i'll toss a nice Motorcraft FL-1A on it

On my list of things to buy:
New pushrods (again)
Spring kit
Valve covers.

In the meantime, it’s time to refurb everything else and start putting it on the engine

Things like this
F89641DF-5CB0-43DD-827C-50D5B5838AFE.jpeg
I replaced my heater tube about a year ago Mike. I ordered it through a Ford dealer here in Albuquerque and it came from Denver. They still had some in stock. $75 + tax
 
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I replaced my heater tube about a year ago Mike. I ordered it through a Ford dealer here in Albuquerque and it came from Denver. They still had some in stock. $75 + tax

Did some searching. Part number is E6ZZ-9D424-B

I checked online and was able to get one for $53 plus shipping from Tasca.

Decided to buy new since it was in a visible spot on the motor. I also got new because the rust area around the egr nipple is a bit suspect.
 
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Did some searching. Part number is E6ZZ-9D424-B

I checked online and was able to get one for $53 plus shipping from Tasca.

Decided to buy new since it was in a visible spot on the motor. I also got new because the rust area around the egr nipple is a bit suspect.
Yeah Id replace that too Mike.
 
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