Mustang5l5's Progress Thread - Frame rail repair

TOOLOW91

If you're the village idiot what's that make me?
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
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I can help too if anything If you’re unsure ! lord knows I have had the engine out 100000 times already On mine
 
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fox racer v2

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Jun 2, 2019
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I came into an explorer setup basically for free - had some q’s on the upper if you by chance knew (didn’t see it explicitly in this thread, but judging by your work I think you’ll have done similar). Did you tap the vacuum ports by chance? If so:

Two not on the inlet plenum: Leave the T-fitting (1) as is, plug the opposite 90* elbow (2) but not sure on thread/plug size.

Four on the inlet plenum: leave the large one that goes to the “T” fitting alone (3). Tap the other large one (4) for the fox vacuum tree but not sure on thread size. The two small ones for the carbon canister (5) and unused for mass air (6) should have a nipple and plug respectively, but again not sure on size.

I’m much more familiar on what needs to be done for the lower intake, but unfortunately the lower I received is non-EGR so will probably move it and buy a ported EGR version.

thanks for the help if you know, apologies for hijacking the thread otherwise.
 

fox racer v2

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Jun 2, 2019
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I basically ripped out all the explorer vac lines and drilled and tapped and installed fittings to plumb it like a stock HO intake. That includes installing the metal tree in the back as well.

404750B2-F52B-4336-9E47-C7ED0B2E9771.jpeg
Sweet, that's what I'm thinking - do you remember sizes for any of them? Vacuum tree probably most important for me.

EDIT: Think I got it, hopefully this sounds about right:
- The two smaller ports (for carbon canister/plugged) will be tapped for 1/8" NPT (One brass fitting with 1/4" barb/ one plug)
- The Vacuum tree and plugged hole (lower right of your pic) are 3/8" NPT
 
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Mustang5L5

A little massaging and it went right in
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
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I want to pull the rack and shaft for some room, but still need to be able to roll the car for now.

Picked up two of these. Will install on tie rod ends, and then measure for a threaded rod between them. They are left and right hand thread, so I can grid a couple flats on the rod, and then adjust to zero toe for easy rolling.

Let’s see if it works
E4F6D063-E151-4FFE-B1BC-E9F478444EBD.jpeg
 

Mustang5L5

A little massaging and it went right in
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
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Pulled the rack out. Installed the threaded rod and ball joint ends. Now I can roll the car out to the driveway to work on it with the rack out of the way

My cobra and 2004 GT racks
6AB0734F-1069-40D0-81F6-2C7AAB5FF664.jpeg


How the rod attaches. Only spent $20 in materials for this

6ED77F7F-4610-4511-AEC2-C12E44FCF0F8.jpeg



Winter never showed up this year. We got one big storm and some dusting. Was almost 60 today. This weekend I’ll roll the car out into the driveway and power wash the bay. Then time to pull the k member.
 
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Mustang5L5

A little massaging and it went right in
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
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Warmed up to the high 40s, so I pushed the car out to wash the bay down. I also threw on all the 98 cobra wheels to get a feel for them

DF4B8A7B-32FE-4BAA-81E4-E80B94D1115D.jpeg

D6C64E33-929E-4809-BD51-699220A92587.jpeg

0E160596-2B45-4D66-B5C4-3D181C8D5F04.jpeg



Now I can pull the k member off and suspension and begin assessing the rails
 

Mustang5L5

A little massaging and it went right in
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
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That’s one reason why I chose to do it today. The wind really helped dry it all up before I pushed it back in the garage
 

Mustang5L5

A little massaging and it went right in
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
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Got the front suspension stripped down.

50A3694A-8752-4C8C-9FF3-E43A564BD12A.jpeg


Attempted to remove the k member. Unfortunately the bolts on the bad side are seized in the nuts. The spin in the tube, but the nuts are seized. Might have to cut them off.

Here are the bolts off the “good” side. Not good news

2618588C-E176-4C85-874E-C2A225AA3C96.jpeg


Looks like it’s time to pick up the welder from my buddy and get to work.

771DAC2D-14B8-4000-8E9B-6CBE78A0A816.jpeg

038BD556-125D-48D2-BC47-4B66BDB012A4.jpeg
 

Rdub6

Mustang Master
Dec 29, 2017
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Got the front suspension stripped down.

50A3694A-8752-4C8C-9FF3-E43A564BD12A.jpeg


Attempted to remove the k member. Unfortunately the bolts on the bad side are seized in the nuts. The spin in the tube, but the nuts are seized. Might have to cut them off.

Here are the bolts off the “good” side. Not good news

2618588C-E176-4C85-874E-C2A225AA3C96.jpeg


Looks like it’s time to pick up the welder from my buddy and get to work.

771DAC2D-14B8-4000-8E9B-6CBE78A0A816.jpeg

038BD556-125D-48D2-BC47-4B66BDB012A4.jpeg
Today was some good weather for work on the car, that’s for sure!!! Looking forward to seeing your frame fabrication!!!
I notice your fuel lines look pretty new. How difficult was it snaking them back into place without linking them? I’m quickly coming up to that step.
 
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Mustang5L5

A little massaging and it went right in
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
32,479
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Massachusetts
Today was some good weather for work on the car, that’s for sure!!! Looking forward to seeing your frame fabrication!!!
I notice your fuel lines look pretty new. How difficult was it snaking them back into place without linking them? I’m quickly coming up to that step.
I cheated. I had the trans and rear axle out of the car when I did them. Piece of cake.

I did help my buddy do them on his car with everything still in. It took a little longer but wasn’t impossible
 
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Rdub6

Mustang Master
Dec 29, 2017
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I cheated. I had the trans and rear axle out of the car when I did them. Piece of cake.

I did help my buddy do them on his car with everything still in. It took a little longer but wasn’t impossible
I was looking at the front, thinking if the strut was out it, would make it easier. Good to know it’s possible as is! Thanks!
 

02 281 GT

Agreed...My wife has great Boobs
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Feb 3, 2009
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Got the front suspension stripped down.

50A3694A-8752-4C8C-9FF3-E43A564BD12A.jpeg


Attempted to remove the k member. Unfortunately the bolts on the bad side are seized in the nuts. The spin in the tube, but the nuts are seized. Might have to cut them off.

Here are the bolts off the “good” side. Not good news

2618588C-E176-4C85-874E-C2A225AA3C96.jpeg


Looks like it’s time to pick up the welder from my buddy and get to work.

771DAC2D-14B8-4000-8E9B-6CBE78A0A816.jpeg

038BD556-125D-48D2-BC47-4B66BDB012A4.jpeg
You should be able to get some new flanged bolts online. The bolts used in the suspension are usually metric grade 10.9. My local Ace hardware actually has a great selection of flanged metric and standard bolts of all kinds of lengths.
 

kendawg73

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Feb 5, 2014
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You should be able to get some new flanged bolts online. The bolts used in the suspension are usually metric grade 10.9. My local Ace hardware actually has a great selection of flanged metric and standard bolts of all kinds of lengths.
I couldn't really find anything when I was looking... I think someone post link before for the OEM's from Ford, but thing they were like 20.00+ each... I ended up scoring a set of OEM bolts on ebay couple years ago that someone put a aftermarket k-member in... there were in perfect shape... and paid like 20.00-25.00 for the whole set including the nuts... since there the only things holding in the motor and whole front suspension... I didn't want to take a chance on some aftermarket bolt...
 
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hoopty5.0

mechanicus terribilis
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Hey Mike, if your "get the welder" comment was to weld up the holes, I can't stress how highly I recommend the smooth LMR panels. You can get them for $100 on sale usually, but they save you hours and hours of grinding and body work. Factory tooling so they basically fit right in, and drilling out the spot welds isnt too bad.