Mustang5l5's Progress Thread - Archived Progress thread '08-'20.

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Interesting. So it bolts right up? What pads the Taurus or Sn95?


Sn95 pads.

The only part you need to change out is the actual caliper that has the piston. Everything else stays the same.

Cardone 18-4537, and 18-4536

This is all you need to swap. Everything else is SN95 mustang (rotors, brackets, pads, line, e-brake, caliper bracket)

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Interesting...so they use this in a true 4 door passenger car and not the mustang of those years.

On a 10.1” non-vented rotor as well.

The 93-00 Lincoln Continental got the rear 43mm calipers as well


Selecting an MC to use with these and the ATS Brembos is tricky. I’ve been doing some math and ideal MC is in between the 93 cobra 1” and the 94/95 GT 1 1/16”.

The 1” is a bit on the soft pedal side, and the 1 1/16” might be only slightly firm. Looks like 1 1/16” might be the one to try
 
Back to the motor. Finalized my pushrod meaurement. Ended up at 6.800”. Most people say TFS heads are 6.700-6.750”, but I felt I got a tighter pattern and closer to the center of valve with 6.800”.

With that done...I bolted on the intake

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Took the opportunity to dress it up a bit with ARP hardware and new Motorcraft sensors of course.

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Now, it’s all the little odds and ends. Need a new PCV grommet, the nipple for the egr coolant line, misc other hardware. Plus I need to “restore” everything else, like the heater tube and fuel rails.

Oil pan stud kit comes Friday. That’s next.

This motor really looks nice. Can’t wait to get it in the car...and hopefully it’s oil leak free!!
 
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It's normal for me to not pay attention to a stock 5.0 build, but your attention to detail, and obsessive level of perfection- ( numbering the ports on the head, when an arrow pointing to the front, or the letters p&d would've made that an automatic thing) , make it so I just have to follow this. You make a build/progress thread what it's supposed to be-- A place to learn something, not just a bunch of pics with a "look what I did" caption at the bottom.
 
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Now....because this question always has to be asked lol...
How did you seal the end rails ?
From pics looks like a nice bead of black rtv.

Only in the corners. I’ve never done the full RTV bead method and have had great luck like that

I’m using the newer explorer intake gasket set that comes with the blue molded end rail gaskets. I just did four dabs in the corners.

The MS 95952 gasket set. The head ports line up perfectly with it and I had my explorer intake ported to it. The transitions line up perfectly if you peer down the intake runners

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No, I bought the standard flow. I read up on all the "watch-outs" with the HV and decided I didn't need it


Thank the Mustang Gods.

HV pumps on a street motor are another of those interwebz overrated unicorns belly-button mods.

I also vaguely recall a set of oil drain plugs that have to be removed from the top of the [something] on [some] heads and not others and blah blah what a pain the ass we shoulda just kept the OEM pump and called it quits godammit what a waste of time and money I hate the interwebz hammer time.....
 
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I noticed in an earlier post you said 7.8 first then 6.8 the next sentence. I just thought it was a typo. It's my fault for not saying something! :doh:

The engine looks really good though!
 
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Now my big oops. Needed 6.800” pushrods.... I ordered 7.800

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My new Ford racing dipstick doesn’t fit the block hole. Need to investigate this.

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Slowly getting there
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I used the same dipstick on my car. I had to use a bench grinder to wire wheel off the chrome plating where it goes into the block. That allowed it to fit nicely in the block.

You're just a magnet for NOS parts at great prices, aren't you?
 
I noticed in an earlier post you said 7.8 first then 6.8 the next sentence. I just thought it was a typo. It's my fault for not saying something! :doh:

The engine looks really good though!

I thought typo as well when I saw that a while ago. I started reading the “I ordered 7.8” and I was like “man I shoulda questioned it” !!
 
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