I decided to put an end to building my 87' t-top because it wasn't worth it since it had a rebuild title and I found too much frame and floor pan damage that I didn't initially see when I picked it up. So I finally offloaded it this last Friday and I'm happy to get my garage back and begin progress on my next project.
The coupe on the left is my 1988 LX original 5.0 w/ 5 spd and was a CA car so it came from the factory with MAF.
When I first got it the car had Eibach/lakewood drag launch suspension which I immediately swapped it all out for KYB shocks and struts and Eibach pro kit springs, UPR bump steer kit & J&M caster camber kit. Also installed torque box reinforcement plates with griggs LCA's.
This is how the car sits today now that I have my garage back and I'm beginning my wire tuck and smoothing of the front engine panels only. This will only be a partial tuck of the wires forward of the strut towers. Battery has been relocated to the trunk with a battery cut off switch as well.
Thanks. I've been working on the car here and there over the last few months but I knew as long as I had my DIY basement remodel and the t-top still in the garage that no big progress would be made. Now that the remodel is done and we all moved down stairs and the t-top is gone I have room and some time to start working on it with a little consistency (i hope).
Can somebody please tell me if a World Class T5 is worth anything used? Are they decent even if their brand new? Somebody close to me has a car that's being parted out and they have a WC T5 but has 80k on it. I don't need one very bad since my stock T5 is in good shape so far.
I'm going to run a regular through wall cold air intake into the passenger side fender. How is the best way to run my MAF wires? Are people running the MAF wires inside the engine compartment and hiding it under the intake pipe or through the fender and out of the panel to the MAF?
Any suggestions and pictures would be helpful before I start welding my panels and getting too far.